D I N E W I S E WITH JASON WALSH
Piatti P iatti is one of those signature Marin restaurants that seems to exist between multiple planes. Traditional old-world Italian in a stunning modern setting. Part of a small restaurant chain, yet considered singularly local by the regulars. Located at the Highway 101 crossroads of Mill Valley, Strawberry and Tiburon, it’s above any colloquial identity. It’s Marin in a nutshell. We visited Piatti on a recent weekday evening—its warm outside lights a welcoming sight on a chilly winter night. It was our first time there since 2021, when the restaurant underwent a redesign with a more casual, clean, minimalist aesthetic. Soft white lights cast their glow on blonde hardwood floors, while single chairs tag team with long padded booths to line the tables. To the side of the main dining room, Piatti’s bar is still one of the more inviting in Marin—a square-shaped configuration with mixologists in the middle and a glowing fireplace at the far end. Perfect for a weeknight happy hour meetup, or to whet your whistle before dinner. We sat for dinner along the west wall, lined with windows overlooking the Richardson Bay and views to Mt. Tamalpais. Our server added an element of old-school charm—placing napkins on laps and positioning the cutlery just right. A nice touch. We started with a couple of cocktails from the bar: The white-rum-based Italian Tuneup ($15) was well-named—with chili bitters providing a wakeup with each sip—while the Monte Cristo ($14) refreshed with lime and orange bitters balancing a generous measure of tequila. From the starters menu we sampled the crudo ($21) and fritto misto ($18), both recommended by our server. The former featured tangy pickled leeks atop bits of raw sea bass; the latter fried up such items as calamari, zucchini, lemon and olives, served with savory marinara and anchovy aioli dipping sauces. The Mill Valley restaurant is one of five Piatti locations along the west coast (and another two in San Antonio, Texas), since the first opened in La Jolla in 1987. Piatti last year completed a three-year phased redesign of six of its restaurants and is reportedly planning to expand to new locations soon. The Mill Valley location was architect firm Dorman Associates’ first redesign, which added wood and brass accents for warmth, while sprinkling the interior with found-object artworks recalling traditional elements of Italian cooking. Along the wall near the bar is wood shelving showcasing Piatti Provisions, a selection of retail offerings where one can purchase the same house-made pastas, sauces, gourmet oils and house wine used in popular
Offerings from Piatti Provisions are near the bar.
58 NorthBaybiz
April 2025
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