Volume 42 2025
M A G A Z I N E PNG Air
BREEDING KUMULS Preserving PNG’s national bird – the Raggiana bird of paradise – one chick at a time P8
Homecoming for reggae legend’s daughter P22
Putting PNG on the map P33
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MAGAZINE PNG Air
Thank you for choosing to fly with the people’s airline.
PUBLISHED BY Pacific Islands Publishing Editor Margo Nugent m.nugent@moore.com.pg Airline Editorial Contact Dalai Thomas dalai.thomas@pngair.com.pg Sales and Distribution Maiyola Steven pipsales@moore.com.pg
We are now well into the first quarter of 2025 and there have been a lot of uphill battles, but that comes with the industry we are in. We are doing our best to manoeuvre the hurdles that hinder our daily operations, while at the same time ensuring we deliver to the best of our ability without compromising safety. At PNG Air, the staff continue to work tirelessly to ensure we get you, our loyal and valued customers, to your intended destinations safely and on time. If you are a regular traveller, we appreciate your choice to travel with PNG Air. For those of you who are travelling with us for the first time, we hope your travel experience with us is nothing short of spectacular. I would also like to acknowledge the support of our travelling mine workers from Newcrest Mining and St Barbara Mining, both in the New Ireland Province, and also K92 Mining in the Ramu Valley. As we progress through 2025, PNG Air will continue striving to do what we do best – and that is connecting our people by transporting them safely from where they are to where they need to be. On behalf of the board, management and staff of PNG Air, we thank you, our passengers, for choosing PNG Air. We look forward to welcoming you on board when you next travel with us as we continue to connect Papua New Guinea.
Design and Layout Anthony Lingnonge pipart@moore.com.pg Correspondence to the airline:
All rights reserved. © Copyright 2025 by Pacific Islands Publishing, a division of Moore Business Systems (PNG) Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. Statements, opinions and viewpoints expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher, editor or the airline. Information contained in this publication is assumed to be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time without notice. Any material accepted is subject to revision as is necessary in the publisher’s sole discretion to meet the requirements of this publication. While all care will be taken, neither the publisher nor the airline will accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. Marketing Manager PO Box 170, Boroko, N.C.D. Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 302 3100 Fax: +675 325 2219 E: pngair@pngair.com.pg Editorial correspondence to: The Editor Pacific Islands Publishing PO Box 7543, Boroko, N.C.D. Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 321 0000 Fax: +675 321 0002 E: m.nugent@moore.com.pg Printer Moore Printing Scratchley Road, Badili N.C.D. Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 321 0000
Enjoy your flight.
Best regards and God bless,
Brian Fraser Chief Executive Officer
Cover photo Birdkeeper Bonnie Bilson feeds Bosh, now four years old and the first Raggiana bird of paradise chick handraised at the Port Moresby Nature Park as part of its breeding program “ Breeding Kumuls” Page 8 Photo: Michael Evoa
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Contents
08 Breeding Kumuls
The hatching of a Raggiana bird of paradise chick – the iconic national bird of PNG – at the Port Moresby Nature Park is not just a feather in the cap of the park’s birdkeepers on the nation’s 50th birthday. It is a sign of hope that the work being done to conserve the country’s precious wildlife is starting to deliver results. Reggae Legend’s Daughter The daughter of the acclaimed late frontman of hit 70s-80s reggae-rock band Black Brothers will visit PNG on the island of her culture and share some of the music in her blood. Lele Firth – who performs as Voice of Lele – reminisces about her parents’ colourful past and her own busy life as a singer-songwriter, refugee advocate, wife and mother of four! parents’ birth this year to reconnect with her Papuan that put PNG on the Map The data collected by the intrepid summit parties who climbed to the peak of Mt Wilhelm,
22 “Homecoming for Reggae Legend’s Daughter”
22 Homecoming for
46 PNG Air – Where We Fly
Mt Simpson and other mountains in the 1950s and 60s gave accuracy to PNG’s early maps of the interior and have been relied on by decades of pilots navigating those same heights and treacherous terrain.
A map of Papua New Guinea and PNG Air flight routes, plus airline contact information, transfer information, and Inflight Games’ puzzle solutions.
48 PNG Air – Inflight Comfort A few health tips and easy
42
PNG Air – News PNG Air news bulletin and updates. 45 PNG Air – Inflight Games Exercise the mind with
exercises to help make your PNG Air flight as comfortable as possible.
33 Mountain Expeditions
Christina Lovatt’s crossword and puzzles for your enjoyment.
8 “Breeding Kumuls”
Chicks of another species of bird of paradise – the growling riflebird – are also part of the Port Moresby Nature Park’s breeding program
33 “Mountain Expeditions that put PNG on the Map”
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MANAGED Wi Fi
Words: Margo Nugent Photos: Michael Evoa, Port Moresby Nature Park
BREEDING KUMULS The second Raggiana bird of paradise bred at the
Port Moresby Nature Park – Otto, pictured at three months old in January when he was just coming into his feathers
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W hen a
New hatchling Otto, pictured at just a few days old in November 2024, required hand feeding every two hours to keep him alive
Raggiana bird of paradise
“We don’t want them to know a human is raising them, so we pretend to be its mum”
chick hatched at Port Moresby Nature Park in November – only the second such hatching in four years of trying – the excitement of the birdkeepers who had nursed the egg for 20 days was tempered by a real sense of worry. How were they going to keep this rare little creature alive? And the one who felt that responsibility most deeply was the park’s acting conservation manager Francis Gundu, who has only recently been promoted into the acting role and was determined that the chick would not die on his watch. “Every morning I was the first one who saw him so I would be thinking, ‘Is he going to make it?’ ‘Will he survive or not?’,” Francis told us, laughing about it now, but remembering the sense of dread. “It was three months of worry. It caused me to lose weight!” Francis lives on site at the park so would set the alarm on his phone to ensure he didn’t miss any of the chick’s eight daily feeding times, the last at 8pm and the first at 6am. “I would set the alarm 20 minutes early so I could get over from my house, it’s not very far away – three minutes if I run.” Once in the vet room where the chick was kept in an incubator to keep it at a constant
temperature and humidity, Francis would
prepare its meal – a vitamin-spiked
mash of papaya and baby rats, which are a nutritious protein source for chicks in their early stages of development. He would then hide behind a curtain to feed his hungry little charge. “Our intention is not to domesticate the birds, we don’t want them to know a human is raising
them, so we pretend to be its mum,” Francis explained. “Even when we check his weight or his body condition we put up a curtain so they
can’t see us, and we blow a whistle during feeding to mimic the bird’s call.” For that first 6am feeding, which Francis
A stunning Raggiana bird of paradise in the wild at Varirata National Park, Sogeri Photo: Dr Brina Bunt, Chasing Zebras
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The sex of Otto, pictured here at three months in January, will not be known until he is three or four years old
admits sometimes involved a sprint to get there in time, “I try to blow the whistle and it doesn’t come, it’s hard to blow!” Despite the early concerns, the chick is now thriving, and only requires one or two daily feedings. Its first ‘pin’ feathers on the wings appeared at nine days, then full feathers at three weeks. It has been named ‘Otto’ – Francis’ middle name and that of his grandfather – even though its sex will not
Wildlife officer Immaculate Pawi prepares papaya, cooked rice, seeds, and mixed fruit and vegetables for Otto
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Otto started developing feathers at nine days old
green throat feathers with a yellow collar and crown at around three years, while a girl will stay a comparatively drab maroonish-brown. Either way Otto will not reach sexual maturity until the seven-year mark. Francis knows that without his daily sacrifice, Otto’s future would not have been certain. “If someone is not on site it becomes 50- 50 whether the chick survives. Keepers have other tasks they must do, they don’t look after one individual, they have other animals. And the baby needed feeding at night.” Francis’ sacrifice was shared by his family, with his wife and two young sons, aged just two years and eight “Its first ‘pin’ feathers on the wings appeared at nine days, then full feathers at three weeks”
months, having to give up time with their dad while he took care of Otto right through the Christmas and festive season. “After work I’d go home and I’d be reading books with them and playing with them, and then the alarm would go off, and I’d say, ‘I need to go and feed another baby’. And I’d have to leave them and run. As much as possible during this critical period I prioritised the welfare of Otto. The boys are
Daddy’s boys so they didn’t like me handing them back to their mother, but it’s okay. My family are used to my schedule.” As Francis reflects on the past months of devoting himself to keeping one bird of paradise alive, it is not lost on him that in most other parts of the country there is pride and glory attached to how many of the birds can be killed. “There can be 27 birds (killed) just to make
be known until it is three or four years old. If Otto is in fact a boy he will start to develop his full plumage and distinctive emerald
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one headdress,” he said. “It’s my tradition (Chimbu in the Highlands) that I must own a bilas (cultural decoration), so if I didn’t look after it and it becomes damaged, I have to go hunt for another one. “If I don’t do this, and participate in the traditional activities in my community, I’m nobody, even if I have money and education.” With the growing tourism and expansion of sing-sings and cultural shows, more pressure is being placed on the collection of feathers to adorn headdresses. A nature park spokesman said one headdress could represent over 10 species of birds of paradise and include more than 20 individual birds. “If you have ever been to a cultural show you will know how big they are and how many birds must have been killed to make such amazing headdresses,” the spokesman said. “Even though they are protected by law and it is illegal to trade, thousands of birds of paradise are killed annually to provide for cultural shows and sing-sings.” To counteract the harvest by overhunting of protected and vulnerable wildlife such as birds of paradise, Port Moresby Nature Park has initiated three educational campaigns. One of these is ‘Lukautim Bilas Bilong Yu’ (Look After Your Cultural Decoration), which encourages people to protect and extend the life of existing items such as feathered headdresses, which reduces their need to kill more wildlife to make new ones. “We know we can’t stop people (from killing wildlife to make bilas) but at least we can stop them killing more than they need to,” Francis said. “In the past we used bamboo tubes and stored all the feathers inside as a dry place, and placed them away above the fire so the smoke protects them from cockroaches and insects.”
The park’s acting conservation manager Francis Gundu feeds Otto, a thriving five-month-old in these photos taken in late February
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With these old methods, the feathers would
last for 15 years or more, but Francis said many of those practices have now been forgotten or lost. Part of the campaign involves showing people modern ways to store the feathers, including wrapping them up thoroughly in newspapers and storing them away from light, heat, dust and moisture. The wildlife officers new idea to replace old or damaged bird of paradise feathers with chicken or artificial feathers. “But they will always prefer the real deal for new bilas to impress each other and tourists,” the spokesman said. “Just like the male bird of paradise trying to impress the females, so do the dancers like to seduce the tourist!” The park’s other campaigns that also aim to protect wildlife are: ‘Do not keep wildlife as pets’ to raise awareness about the importance of allowing native animals to remain in their natural habitats; and “City
The park’s keepers have to act quickly to retrieve eggs once they appear in a nest to avoid them being accidentally smashed or eaten by a tree snake. This is an egg of a growling riflebird, another species of bird of paradise that is similar to the Raggiana
also suggest alternatives to wild feathers. For example, farmed white chicken feathers can be reshaped and dyed any colour to represent other species in a headdress. A park spokesman said that so far the locals are embracing the
kids don’t eat bush meat”, which educates children particularly about the choice available for those living in urban areas who no longer have to hunt wildlife such as wallabies for food. The conservation campaigns have been recognised with
The egg and chick incubators at Port Moresby Nature Park are very dated and in need of an upgrade to improve hatching success
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Francis is teaching his young sons Issach, 2, and Gilbert, eight months, the importance of protecting vulnerable wildlife such as birds of paradise so theirs and future generations can continue to see such native animals in the wild
an international zoo educators’ award by the Zoo and Aquarium Association of Australasia. To have successfully managed to breed a Raggiana bird of paradise – PNG’s flagship bird – in the 50th year of the country’s independence made the achievement even more special, the park’s new chief executive officer Johnpaul Houston said. “I am very proud of the wildlife team. It has been a pleasure to see the protocols and procedures developed for
successful introduction of the males to female Raggiana birds of paradise,” said Johnpaul, who was previously head of birds at Blackpool Zoo in the United Kingdom and has had a 20 year career as a zookeeper in British zoos. He described how the team had to develop “a sixth sense” about what the birds would do in order to time things precisely as the male birds of paradise can destroy nests and eggs in order to guarantee their paternity. “Males need to be kept in close proximity
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behind a curtain. “As soon as possible the chicks are placed next to their conspecifics (birds of the same species) so they learn the calls, behaviours and their own identity from a young age. We are happy that our young birds of paradise from 2024 and 2025 are well developed physically and mentally, knowing they are birds!” He said this should help with future breeding at the park. The park’s first successful breeding of a Raggiana chick, ‘Bosh’ (named after keepers Bonnie Bilson and Joshua Heni) was in 2021, with Francis crediting longtime former curator Brett
Smith for teaching him and the other keepers the many skills required to pull off such a feat. This included planting the right vegetation for nest-building, understanding breeding compatibility, and getting the birds’ diet right with a mix of fruit, vegetables, insects and nutritional supplements. A key breakthrough came when the team focused on ensuring that the birds’ enclosures mimicked their natural rainforest habitat. “Over time, the vegetation in the enclosures grew dense and lush, creating an ideal environment for the birds to thrive,” Francis said. Bosh’s arrival heralded the first time in 20
“With the right knowledge, resources and dedication, we can preserve our natural heritage for future generations”
so they can do their elaborate ‘lekking’ courtship dance – and so careful consideration as to how and where birds are housed is essential,” he said. “At (game) – moving birds around to promote the optimum pairings, but guarantee the female has sanctuary when needed to lay eggs and rear chicks. “Then, when the chicks times it feels a little like Musical Chairs hatched, the hard work started – with members of the team
starting hand-feeding from 6am, up until dark – every two hours! This continues until the birds are eventually independent after just a few weeks.” Johnpaul also mentioned the “complicating factor” of the keepers having to hide their humanness! “We need the birds to know they are birds, not people, and so human contact is limited to just feeding times, and once the eyes of the chicks begin to open, the feeds are done from
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it was to collect an egg for hatching. For a start, the breeding season is very short – only from November to January – with each breeding pair only likely to produce one or maybe two eggs during that window, and sometimes none at all. Then, after an egg is laid, it is crucial that keepers grab it before it is damaged. “(In the park) there is exposure to predators like tree snakes, and sometimes the dad, if you don’t separate the father he can try to mate with the mum again and destroy the nest – how do you say, the father is in a climax stage! And the eggs will fall. “So, when we see the mum has laid the egg, we separate the dad. Maybe the mum could incubate the egg like they do in the wild, but we don’t want to take the risk so we bring it to the incubator. “The keepers have to mastermind their observation skills! When we see the mum collecting the nesting materials, we know the next step is to lay the eggs so every morning after or before feeding we go and check her nest.” Before the egg can be moved, the egg incubator has to be switched on for 24 hours to make sure the heat and humidity are stable. Then, as soon as the egg hatches, the chick is moved to a second incubator for further close monitoring. When Bosh hatched in 2021, Francis
said Brett created a homemade incubator using a cage with nesting material positioned over a heat lamp. This time around, the team had access to a Rcom 10 Pro incubator with digital settings that JP (Johnpaul) brought with him from England. However, despite being an improvement, Francis laughingly says his boss refers to the Rcom as ‘a toy’ as it is not up to the park’s breeding requirements. “It works, but advanced technology could significantly improve our success rates,” he said. JP later confirmed this. “We desperately require sponsorship to upgrade these,” he said. Meanwhile, at just five months old, little Otto is already fledging – growing feathers and gaining independence. Within six months, he will be reintroduced into a semi-natural environment. More than anything, Francis says that Otto’s arrival underscores the importance of the park’s conservation programs, helped by international partners such as the Wildlife Conservation Society, which aim to educate the public about the threats to their wildlife. “This success is more than just a breeding milestone, it’s a symbol of hope. It proves that with the right knowledge, resources and dedication, we can preserve our natural heritage for future generations,” he said.
One of the park’s collection of 12 Raggiana birds of paradise
years that a Raggiana had been bred in captivity in PNG. Now four, Bosh’s gender as a male has at last been determined. Francis said the four Raggiana birds that were Bosh’s and Otto’s parents were breeding pairs surrendered to the park from the wild in Central Province. They are among 12 Raggiana birds now permanent residents of the park. He also explained how hard
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NGCB Invests in Staff Development to Drive Industry Growth
The NGCB under the leadership of Ms Agon is poised to become a hub of excellence in gaming regulation, setting new standards of integrity and transparency in the PNG gaming industry. “As the gaming industry evolves, empowering our employees is essential to driving growth,” said Ms Agon. Last year, the NGCB facilitated training sessions, including leadership development and strategic decisionmaking programs for the executive management team, middle management and the general staff. This training equipped staff with the tools to steer NGCB toward greater success. Additionally, four staff members are currently in Australia on six-month study leave, pursuing a Cyber Security Certificate IV in Business through a partnership with Ferguson Education Group (FEG).
our staff with advanced knowledge and expertise, NGCB is not only enhancing internal operations but also raising industry standards across Papua New Guinea.” The CEO added that fostering a culture of learning and adaptability ensures that NGCB remains prepared to navigate challenges, embrace opportunities, and uphold world-class gaming standards. These training programs have boosted employee morale and engagement, creating a motivated workforce ready to drive innovation and maintain integrity within the gaming sector. “Our goal is not just to develop skills but to cultivate leaders who inspire change, uphold ethical standards, and secure sustainable growth for NGCB and Papua New Guinea,” Ms. Agon concluded. By investing in the professional development of the NGCB staff, the country is reinforcing its commitment to responsible gaming practices, consumer protection, and economic growth.
Staff training and development remain a priority for the National Gaming Control Board (NGCB) with significant efforts to improve skillsets, productivity and job satisfaction. Under the visionary leadership of CEO Ms Imelda Agon, the board continues to provide opportunities for employees to expand their knowledge and capabilities, ensuring they are well-equipped to meet industry demands and contribute to NGCB’s success.
Ms Agon commitment
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PILAI LO MAK, TINGIM PAMILI PASTAIM! AUTHORISED BY THE NATIONAL GAMING CONTROL BOARD
BIRDS OF PARADISE:
1 magnificent bird of paradise. The park’s first Raggiana bird of paradise
chick bred in captivity is a male named Bosh who hatched in 2021. The second chick is Otto (sex still unknown) hatched in November 2024. The 26 birds of paradise at the park represent only 20% of its total bird population, which numbers 131, with the most common birds being pigeons such as the impressive Victoria and southern crowned pigeons, followed by Papuan eclectus parrots. The park is home to about 300 animals in total.
Six of the world’s 42 species of birds of paradise have found sanctuary in the Port Moresby Nature Park. They number 26 birds in total and include: 12 Raggiana birds of paradise; 7 growling riflebirds; 3 trumpet manucodes; 2 crinkle- collared manucodes; 1 lesser bird of paradise; The bird of paradise is one of the most beautiful birds in the world – but its beauty is unfortunately its undoing. The tail feathers which adorn this iconic bird have been harvested for many generations to decorate humans and used as currency for trade. In PNG the bird’s plumes are prized as ceremonial body decoration during sing-sings, which take place during ritualised warfare, courtship and nearly every form of social interaction in PNG. Other parts of the world have also long revered the feathers as symbols of power, wealth, sexuality and fashion. There is evidence of their use in Asia 2000 years ago, with demand hitting a peak in Europe 150 years ago (in the 1880s-90s) when it became the height of fashion in cities such as Paris, London and New York for women to wear them in their hats. During the ‘plume boom’, Malay, Chinese, and Australian hunters came to seek their fortunes in New Guinea’s rainforests, with one of several impor- tant hunting grounds being the area in Western Province between the OkTedi and Muyu Rivers where the Yonggom people live. With up to 50,000 skins being exported from PNG each year, the trade almost wiped out some birds before the practice was finally outlawed in the 1920s. Since then, birds of paradise have been protected. All About the Feathers
No other bird group is so rich in variety of plumage, which ranges from black to a painter’s palette of bright colours. Some of the feathers are as delicate as lace, while others shimmer with a metallic golden sheen. Some males have wattles, bright-blue mouths, or coloured patches of naked skin.
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The Raggiana bird of paradise is PNG’s national bird and features on the country’s flag, currency and stamps. Birds of paradise are called ‘kumuls’ in Tok Pisin – which is also the nickname of PNG’s national rugby league team. There is a plant called bird of paradise named after the birds that they resemble. The Raggiana, also known as Count Raggi’s bird of paradise, was named after a fairly unknown Italian aristocrat Marquis Francesco Raggi of Genoa (1807–1887), a friend of the Italian explorer and naturalist Luigi D’Albertis who identified the species during an expedition to New Guinea’s west coast in 1873. Not all birds within the bird of paradise family carry the same name; there are also sicklebills, astrapias, paradigallas, riflebirds, parotias, manucodes and the paradise-crow. They also come in a variety of shapes and sizes, from a small starling up to the size of a crow. And that doesn’t include the male’s feathery tail that can be up to 1m long, depending on species!
Because it takes many years to determine male or female in some species, there are many zoos around the world that received shipments of females only to discover as they matured that they were male. Some birds of paradise decorate their nests with discarded snake skins to scare away predators. The ‘paradise’ in the bird’s name stems from a legend that began in the 16th century when traders who sent the first specimens to Europe removed their legs to make them lighter and easier to wear as a headpiece. But this gave rise to the belief that the bird had no feet and, unable to land, must remain perpetually in flight, suspended between heaven and earth, held aloft by their plumes and sustained by manna (food from God). Most male birds of paradise species are not good fathers. Once he mates with a willing female, he leaves to find another female, taking no part in helping with the nesting or rearing of the young; the female does this job all by herself. One of the exceptions is the manucode male, which is
less colourful and flamboyant and tends to mate with just one female each breeding season, and both parents help with nest building and chick feeding. Female birds’ nests are shaped like a cup and made of leaves, ferns, twigs and moss. Nests are often found in tree forks.
During the elaborate courtship, the male’s feathers truly come into their own. Different species have plumes, frills, capes, quills, lacy feathers, and/or skirts, with tails that may look like expandable fans, whips, twisted wires, and more, depending on the species. Those tails may look beautiful, but they are not very helpful for flight. Instead, they are meant to help the male show off any number of fantastic dance moves to attract as many females as possible and to outdo rivals. Some species dance in trees;
others create a stage of sorts on the forest floor by stripping away leaves to let sunlight shine down on them, spotlight fashion. Many males display in a common area known as a lek, where they compete to catch a female’s interest. Displays can include charging and then posturing stiffly, hanging from limbs, or alternately freezing and spinning.
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Homecoming for Reggae Legend’s Daughter
Words: Olive Sukun and Margo Nugent Photos: Supplied by Voice of Lele
Lele’s nieces jump into the water at the family’s ‘picnic island’ – Nusorowi Island, Syeri, West Papua 22
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F or Australia-based singer-songwriter Lea ‘Lele’ Firth – whose late father was the frontman of legendary West Papuan rock- reggae band Black Brothers in the 1970s and 80s – coming to PNG to perform later this year definitely feels like a homecoming. “When I come to Papua New Guinea it’s like, it’s a different feeling you know?” said Lele – whose stage name is Voice of Lele – speaking via a Zoom chat from her adopted home of Melbourne, Australia. “It is like I’m home. I look around and I see everyone who looks like me. You know, this is what life is supposed to be like, being with your people.” Lele’s parents Agustinus and Antomina Rumwaropen fled West Papua as political refugees in the 80s – with their five children, including second-born Lele, born and raised overseas. The family was the first refugee family from West Papua relocated to Australia in 1988. But despite her exile from Papua, Lele says her connection to the island is undeniable. “I wasn’t born there, but there’s a big part of me that never feels like Australia is my home. I love it here because my family and my children are here but I always long for home. Every chance I get to go back, if I can, I will.” Lele is married to Aboriginal Australian world music star Mitch Tambo, with the couple hitting the airwaves on January 24 with their new duet cover of the beloved Aussie hit ‘My Island Home’ – 30 years after it was made famous by Torres Strait Islander singer “I’m just blessed to be on the land of Papua, so whether it’s the west side or the east side, every time I come to PNG, it’s home”
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but at the time of press tentatively postponed to September due to scheduling conflicts – she also intends to sing many of her songs in Tok Pisin. “I’m not amazing at speaking it,” she tells us with a laugh, “but it’s really important to me that I do sing in Tok Pisin so that it brings, not just our two sides (West Papua and PNG) together, but to shine some light on our beautiful land of Papua LEFT: Lele with her husband and fellow musician Mitch Tambo, and their youngest daughter Phoenix, 3, on the beach at Bowen, near Townsville, Australia, where they shot the video clip for ‘My Island Home’. The Whitsunday region is special to the couple who have visited the area many times for holidays with their family
“I just want to embrace PNG culture. I don’t get to do that”
Christine Anu, and 25 years since it became the unofficial national anthem of the 2000 Sydney Olympic Games closing ceremony. released individual versions of the song – Mitch singing in his Gamilaraay Aboriginal language and Lele singing in Tok Pisin and English, with both On February 7, Mitch and Lele The next generation... Lele (right) and her sisters Petra (left) and Rosa – who made up the band Black Sistaz – reunited with original members of their late father’s band, Black Brothers, in Port Moresby in 2016 to perform at the ‘Legends Come Home’ concert at Sir John Guise Stadium as part of PNG’s 41st independence celebrations. Pictured here at CHM Studios are the girls’ beloved ‘Uncle William’ Ayamiseba (left), and ‘Uncle Benny’ Bettay
putting their own spin on what “home” really means. “This song is not just about my homeland of West Papua; it’s also about my family,” Lele says. “Living in exile, my ‘island home’ is my husband and children.
It was a beautiful way to share my story of yearning for connection with my roots but also finding solace and home in Mitch and our family.” During Lele’s visit to Port Moresby – initially planned for mid-March
and also the whole Melanesian region.
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“Interesting fact about my mum, she was the first Indigenous West Papuan model in Indonesia!... She was your ‘70s Melanesian princess with her perfect big Afro!”
first as a solo artist under her performing name Voice of Lele. “Lele was a nickname given to me by my cousins growing up, so ‘Voice of Lele’ literally means ‘my voice’ – I have many roles and wear many hats and I share all that encompasses me as a spiritual human being living on this earth through my music and stories.” Among those many hats is being the mother of four daughters with Mitch – whose ages are 19, 16, eight and three. Another role she is passionate about is advocating for refugees, touring schools and giving workshops for young kids that promote empathy and cultural
PICTURED: Above and left, Lele’s parents Agustinus and Antomina Rumwaropen – in PNG in the late ‘70s when Agustinus was frontman for the Black Brothers band – and top left, in Vanuatu, with three of their five children (from left) Lele, Petra and Rosa
“I just want to come to POM city and make solid connections… share my music with the younger generation as well as talk about how you do have brothers and sisters on the other side of the border who are just like you. I think it’s very important that we reconnect the two
sides. And for me I just want to embrace PNG culture. I don’t get to do that. I don’t have the opportunity or the privilege to do that with my people back home, so I would definitely love to come there and collaborate with other musicians and see what life is like there.
“For me, representing my people and culture is at the forefront of my music. I want Papuan and Melanesian young girls and women to see themselves in me and know they can achieve their dreams on the world stage.” This will be Lele’s fourth visit to PNG, but her
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Clockwise from bottom left: The original lineup of Black Brothers circa 1978 (Lele’s dad Agustinus in centre in yellow suit); Agustinus on the keys in Vanuatu circa 1985; Agustinus playing guitar and keys on tour with the Black Brothers in Honiara, Solomon Islands, in 1979 – shortly after this he became lead singer and lead guitarist; The cover of Black Brothers’ disco album, recorded in The Netherlands circa 1982
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clips. I have no idea how to find them now – she was your ‘70s Melanesian princess with her perfect big Afro!” For Lele’s upcoming trip to POM, only Mitch will accompany her, but she would love to bring their daughters again – “just to experience life in Papua and see how progressive it is, you know when I tell them the stories my parents told us it has changed a lot since then!” She recalls her parents telling her stories about the wonder of arriving in POM in the late 70s from much less developed at that time West Papua. “They stayed with my father’s Biak family who were also West Papuan refugees living in Hohola. My parents spent around 4-6 months there. I remember my parents saying their first experience of PNG was very different, almost not what they expected. We are one people, one race, similar culture with a colonial border that separates us, but Port Moresby was a lot more advanced in those times in terms of roads, shops etc. The language barrier was a big thing to deal with as well, but knowing they were from the same land made them feel at home and everyone they met welcomed them with open arms. “My father became lead singer and lead guitarist of the Black Brothers soon after that.... three of the Black Brothers band members left the band soon after the PNG trip.” Lele has visited PNG three times now, the first in 2012 when the Black Sistaz performed at Lamana Hotel providing backup vocals to acclaimed PNG musician George Telek, who she refers to as ‘Uncle’. “ We also performed with him at a village which was special. It was an incredible full-circle moment for me when George shared that when he was a teenager, he loved to watch my dad’s band
On their second visit to Port Moresby in 2014, the Black Sistaz performed at the Governor’s Christmas celebrations in Jack Pidik Park
awareness. “I share my story – not just my West Papuan culture, but how important it is for the kids to know that Australia is really diverse and full of different cultures and people from all different walks of life and different backgrounds. “I tell them there are a lot of refugees that moved here to Australia and we need to be loving and kind and accepting of them because you just don’t know where they’ve come from and the things that they’ve experienced to get here. “And I say that obviously from the place of someone who’s been there.” Lele’s last visit to Port Moresby was during the 41st Independence celebrations in 2016 as the lead singer of the Black Sistaz, the band she formed with her younger sisters Rosa and Petra. The three sang at a Black Brothers’ ‘Legends Come Home’ reunion concert at Sir John Guise Stadium where their late father was honoured as
lead singer and lead guitarist. “That was a special moment and I was humbled by how many people said that they remembered my father and loved his music, it actually moved me to tears a couple of times,” she said. Particularly special was that her mother Antomina joined her on that trip, along with two of her daughters, Ofa, who was then eight, and baby Kalani, at that time only six months old. “My beautiful mama is now 65 years old, she was 18 when she married my dad, and not long after they had to escape out of fear of persecution by the Indonesian authorities. She comes from an island paradise called Rumberpon, a small island off the coast of Manokwari, West Papua. “Interesting fact about my mum, she was the first Indigenous West Papuan model in Indonesia! She was on some magazine, modelling her big Afro and also in some video
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play. He is a lovely man and has such a hauntingly beautiful voice, so performing alongside him was a career highlight for me.” Two years later they were invited back to sing Christmas carols at Governor Powes Parkop’s annual concert in Jack Pidik Park. Each visit Lele takes the opportunity to reconnect with family. “I have uncles on both sides and our cousins who live in the suburbs – and it’s always so great to catch up with them. After my parents left Papua New Guinea, they moved to The Netherlands where I was born, and then to Vanuatu, and I know they always missed their siblings back in PNG so it’s always so special for me to reconnect, particularly as my dad has now passed away. We sit around telling funny stories about Dad until we are crying with laughter.” The visits always include a little down time, so Lele says she and her sisters have explored Gaba Gaba and Tubusereia villages, and enjoyed taking in local markets. “I always enjoy seeing all the beautiful Melanesian faces at the markets selling my favourite island foods. I love feasting on all the fresh produce – the beautiful bananas, taro, sweet potatoes and fresh seafood – and buying keepsakes from amazing local artists.” Lele says her kids have come to learn about Papuan food through her cooking. “I would make my children take leftovers from dinner the night before to school (yum right?!). It ranged from baked taro and baked fish to corned beef and spinach toasties, boiled plantain with fried chicken... and sweet coconut sticky rice my mum used to make.” It’s such cultural differences that Lele says she points out during her educational talks to kids to demonstrate the need to have
“I want Papuan and Melanesian young girls and women to see themselves in me and know they can achieve their dreams on the world stage”
acceptance and tolerance. “Being a mum myself you see kind of where the gap is. Even though my kids are Australian born but because they have coloured skin and they sometimes bring different kinds of food to school they seem a bit different you know? “I think in order for people to learn to really accept each and have love and respect for someone it has to start from your home at a young age.” In her talks Lele also draws on her personal experiences of coming to Australia as a child and finding it hard to fit in. “Imagine back in the 80s living in Canberra, which is like a big country town, I used to experience a lot of racism, a lot
of people didn’t really accept us, but you just become resilient and learn how to be strong in who you are and what your culture is. It was hard living here but eventually you make friends and you grow, and our family settled here. “Although how I came to this country was kind of all over the shop and unstable, I think the really positive thing about life in Australia is that you get to start again, and there are so many services here, simple things like having access to the medical system and the education system. Those are the kinds of things that you can really create a new kind of positive new life for yourself.” Lele recalls the family’s
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first planned Christmas visit back to her father’s village on Biak Island in 2005 took a tragic turn when her dad died suddenly of a heart attack earlier that year. “We pushed forward with our trip because my dad said to my mum once, ‘If anything ever happens to me I want to be buried back home next to my mum and
Lele says she has found her ‘island home’ with husband Mitch and their four daughters
dad in my village’, so we did everything we could to bring him home,” she said. “So it was a bittersweet kind of experience for me, being able to go home and see where my dad was from, and my very first time to
plant my feet on my land.” Lele was able to visit once more in 2009, but has not been back since, although she says PNG feels just as much home to her. “I’m just blessed to be on the land of Papua, so whether it’s
the west side or the east side, every time I come to PNG, it’s home, you know? That border down the middle that separates us is just a border, it’s man- made. We are one land.”
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Mountain expeditions that helped put PNG ON THE MAP Words & Photos: David K Mitchell
The cairn on the peak of Mt Simpson (Matawan) in the eastern Owen Stanley Range of Milne Bay sits at 1968m (6459 feet) Photo: Fred Kraus, 2004
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T he thin cold air from the swirling mist on Mt Wilhelm left an ethereal film of silver moisture on my clothes, and disconcertedly added slippage to the rocks I was scrambling up. Searchingly I looked for the next orange painted blaze that one- by-one guided me to the human-made pile of stones or ‘cairn’ on the top of this craggy peak, and where I at last threw myself down and breathed a deep exhilarating sigh of relief. I was on top of PNG – Mt Wilhelm, or in Simbu ‘Enduwa Kombugu’ – and alone. On the distant north coast was the Madang Coastwatchers’ light with the folds of the Ramu Valley radiating one way and the Markham Valley into “I put the camera down, set the self- timer to 10 seconds, scurried back on to the rocks of the cairn and tried to look cool before the lens clicked. This was Easter 1984 and the word ‘selfie’ didn’t yet exist, click, and then the cloud stole away the view”
The writer David Mitchell’s ‘selfie’ photo, taken as a Kodak slide (below), on the summit of Mt Wilhelm in 1984
another distance, where I searched for Zumim village, my location of a couple of days earlier. To the west, mountain upon mountain faded to the Irian Jaya border, now Papua Province of Indonesia. On these horizons the sun was coming up and the full moon was about to set. I put the camera down, set the self-timer to 10 seconds, scurried back on the rocks of the cairn and tried to look cool before the lens clicked. This was Easter 1984 and the word ‘selfie’ didn’t yet exist, click, and then the cloud stole away the view. I’d climbed many peaks alone before in the semi-desert of the Flinders Ranges of South Australia, topped with its rustic orange cliffs. It was my way to escape from university study and maintain a bit of humility. Climbing peaks by yourself was, well, definitely not encouraged, but I’d read somewhere that
being a rebel is what often leads to change. Many of the peaks I’d climbed had a cairn of rocks topped by a beacon. The one on Mt Wilhelm was much like what I’d seen in Australia and it got me to wondering if they were somehow connected? Often there is a small pile of rocks to show someone has been there, but these were serious cairns. I found the answer in a word I’d never heard before and still struggle
with, geodetic. It relates to doing a professional
survey to work out exactly where you
are on a dynamic and constantly changing earth – an earth that isn’t a nice sphere like you might think, but one where PNG actually pokes out. To put the maps of PNG right, it required the building of a series of beacons and cairns of rocks by a summit party, hence the one on Mt Wilhelm. This was then followed by a geodetic
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