A mere 2.4 miles from its numerical political cousin at No. 10 in Westminster, Michelin-starred KOL Restaurant’s thoughtful rise to its standing as No. 17 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants List is an independent one not usually taken on the trek to the culinary red carpet. Memo- ries of Mexico re-imagined with British produce create a culture rooted in both tradition and innovation. Celebrating the Mexican culture’s vibrancy and heritage through a nostalgic and contempo- rary lens, Chef Santiago Lastra was raised just south of Mexico City in Cuernavaca. For him, cooking has always gone hand-in-hand with research - having originally wanted to become a mathematician rather than a chef. Beginning his path at 15 working in an Italian restaurant, he went to Spain at 18 after being offered an internship at Michelin-starred Europa Ristoran- te in Pamplona. Inspired by the social impact restaurants could make, he decided that his future belonged in one rather than a research lab. Opening KOL in 2020, his invention managed to merge the roots of Mexico and its culture, inspiration, and flavors with the native produce of Britain. Replete with a main dining room and a Mezcaleria which features London’s most unique collection of mezcals, tequilas, and other Mexican spirits, the Chef’s Table is its private dining room inspired by the grand hous- es of Oaxaca. As KOL evolves, it has fostered the development of new talent at the hands of General Man- ager Edie Jobson. Josephine Appleyard’s journey from Portland, Oregon to London began with her undergraduate work at King’s College. Majoring in French and English/Philosophy, she calls her introduction to KOL a “serendipitous thing.” As part of the restaurant’s Som- melier Team, she is studying the 1,000-bottle wine inventory while having “conversations during the dining experience as an advocate for the palette of each guest.” Featuring only Old World German, Austrian, and Italo-Slovenian producers known for wines with bright acidity and energy, the staff’s technical excellence is only augmented through its “accessi- bility and pure enthusiasm.” Celebrating two years with KOL, Appleyard acknowledges that she will continue to learn and respect her role within the greater ecosystem of the restaurant. “I’ve loved the pas- CALLING ON No. 17, London
sion-first mentality of our team,” she says. “Our culture here is based on sharing - and that is one of the main ingredients of excellence that Santiago has instilled in all of us.” More information at: kolrestaurant.com
PHOTOS: Restaurant - Charlie McKay; Santiago Lastra - Rebecca Dickson; Cuisine Insets - Anton Rodriguez; Josephine Appleyard - self.
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