The design is selected manually with a pick-up stick. Then, a board is inserted between the reed and the shafts to hold the appropriate warp threads that form the pattern. The selected pattern is then moved behind the shafts, where another board is inserted. Since the "block" of the pattern corresponds to a spe- cific number of shuttle passes with the weft, the board helps maintain the pattern without the need for repeated manual selection. After each row of weft, a plain weave is added. This creates a background, giving the fabric a two-color effect, with its reverse side forming a mirror image.
To simplify the process, the weaver introduces what is known as "memory." After each selected row of the pattern, a string is tied behind the shafts.
▲ Pamięć — sznurki
Types of Patterns Perebory patterns are divided into two types: ▸ Striped patterns (repetitive) ▸ Bedspread pattern (“kapowe”) – used for "round" bedspreads with a central motif and a border around the coverlet. Typically, weavers create bedspreads on narrow looms. Few have wide looms capable of weaving an entire cov- erlet at once. On narrow looms, one half of the bedspread is woven first, followed by the other half, which is then sewn together. This requires exceptional precision to ensure the pattern aligns perfectly. Due to insufficient expe- rience, differences in weft beating, or errors, it is not uncommon to encounter bedspreads where the two halves appear mismatched. “Kapowe” patterns are recorded as 1/4 of the design, which is then repeated. Weaving a bedspread often requires the cooperation of two people: one selects the pattern and weaves, while the other reads the pattern and holds the boards.
Recording Patterns To this day, notebooks containing “spiski”—patterns recorded line by line in a white-black sequence— have been preserved. There are also “spiski” with graphic patterns on grid paper, where individual elements of the design were marked with dots or crosses. Mod- ern weavers use graph paper, MS Excel, or other computer programs to record patterns.
▲ Spisek na papierze milimetrowym
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Woven Heritage About the Weaving Method
Tkane Dziedzictwo O metodzie tkania
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