19. TrooRa The LGBTQ+ Not an Issue Summer ’23

school. She chose to backpack through Mexico to really understand what her native land had to offer in terms of food and drink. Though her family came from the northern part of the country, the profound and immense southern Mexican cuisine during that trip “pulled on my heartstrings and became the foundation of my

Thanks to these special experiences, she became keenly aware of her privileged life and the wide socioeconomic differences that existed among people. In addition, it was where she first tried her hand at the culinary industry and entrepreneurialism. Chef Esparza and her father would return to these camps on Wednesdays, where they would sell bread from the bakery to the migrants

career,” she says. “Cooking with traditional cooks is where I found my culinary soul.” When she returned to Phoenix in 2002, she opened her first restaurant, Barrio Café in Calle 16, a less-desirable neighborhood. To make the location more appealing, she worked with artists to paint murals highlighting Mexican heritage and creative interests beyond food. During the early days, it was a challenge to make people understand her food. Clients left because she did not serve chips and salsa. Nowadays, the proliferation of authentic Mexican chefs and cuisines has changed things dramatically.

out of her father’s van. And just like the migrant children who worked the fields with their parents under the hot California summer sun, she started working at the bakery at six years old. At the same time, her mother and grandmother taught her how to cook. One of the first things she made was Chile Rellenos. Making the proper egg batter was challenging, but eventually, she got the hang of it. By fifteen, she was mastering the art of making carnitas to sell at the same bakery, diving headfirst into her first business. After leaving for a short stint in the banking industry, she returned to her true love—the kitchen.

“Cooking with traditional cooks is where I found my culinary soul.”

She started working at a catering company but eventually realized that she did not know enough about cooking. So, she moved to Phoenix, Arizona in 1996 to attend Scottsdale Culinary Institute. She applied for and was granted an International Association of Culinary Professionals Scholarship to travel and study food after graduating from culinary

The continuous influx of Mexican immigrants has brought exceptional Mexican food to the United States. One can find great Mole Poblano from Puebla in New York City. Oaxacan immigrants are now putting up great restaurants in Los Angeles. Everywhere in the country, one can find great Mexican food.

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