insist on pasta, expect to find shapes and flavours you’ve never encountered.
There’s the fusi, which looks like “a little diaper” and is served with house ragu, or the francobolli, a stuffed pasta that looks like a postage stamp, and the cjarsons, a half- moon-shaped pasta filled with potatoes or beets, then tossed in lemony butter and poppy seeds. You could end there or go on to the mains, which are a little more traditional (osso buco, roasted game hen, breaded pork chop), although the roast goat from Rossi’s family farm in Abbotsford is an unexpected inclusion. Plus, there is a nice selection of sides and sweets on which to graze, and an excellent regional wine list to enjoy alongside. “I’m trying to stick with these classic, simple f lavour combinations,” Perrier says. “I’m trying to get the food to the guest with as little manipulation as possible.” ‘Lots of headwaters’ This is a menu that will surprise a lot of diners, but in a good way. With so many restaurants pulling back, simplifying and adjusting their menus to diner demands, there are not a lot of culinary risks being taken right now, especially in fine dining. It’s exciting to taste something fresh and new and different, especially in the hands of a consummate pro like Perrier. Since returning to the kitchen, Perrier has been a little bit taken aback by the low morale among his colleagues, by the staffing shortages and the difficulty getting supplies. “A lot of the small producers I used to rely on are gone, too. Lots of headwaters, right?” he says. Still, he’s determined to keep doing things the way he always has: painstakingly, from scratch and with the very best ingredients he can get his hands on. “I’ve been able to assemble a great team of cooks,” he says. “I’ve been very, very blessed staffing wise.” And he’s feeling optimistic, happy to be making his kind of food, his way. “I’m thinking the spring and summer [are] going to be quite good,” he says. “I’m really trying to go for it, as much as possible.” Carlino Restaurant and Lounge, Shangri-La Hotel 1115 Alberni St, Vancouver, B.C. carlinorestaurant.com | 604.695.1115 | @carlinorestaurant
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Quality cookware, bakeware, kitchen tools and pantry items for your everyday needs.
Joanne Sasvari believes making pasta from scratch should qualify as an Olympic event.
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