F ounded in 1984 by Nazzareno Pola, Andreola is now expertly managed by his son, Stefano Pola. We had the pleasure of meeting Stefano at Vinexpo Paris earlier this year, where we were captivated by the exceptional quality of his sparkling wines, many of which have earned the prestigious Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading food and wine publication. Located in the renowned and mountainous Valdobbiadene sub-region within the Prosecco region of Veneto, Andreola distinguishes itself by treating the region as more than just a source of wine. They view it as a living entity, shaped by the vine’s evolution, its adaptation to the unique terrain and diverse climate, and the hands-on labor involved. Recently, we chatted with Stefano about what sets his wines apart and the future of sparkling wines from Valdobbiadene. Q&A With Stefano Pola — Andreola Winery By Jenn Sanders
Q: What unique qualities do your sparkling wines bring to the table? A: Our production philosophy is always to respect the integrity of the fruit, which we accomplish in the cellar through additive rather than subtractive methods. For example, to minimize intrusive fining and filtration interventions, we use only free-run juice and employ only the gentle porous membrane filtration method. We feel such methods enhance the elegance and pleasantness of the indigenous Glera grape and help us to produce sparkling wines of considerably greater character. Q: You chose not to have the word “Prosecco” on your labels, opting instead to use the narrower appellation Valdobbiadene DOCG. What is the reasoning behind that decision from a marketing perspective? A: We want our wines to be grounded in our territory, which is Valdobbiadene DOCG. In a sense, we are an “ambassador” of this very small area, where the wines are produced using “heroic” viticulture required by the steepness and the altitude of our vineyards. Q: That’s fascinating. What do you mean by “heroic viticulture”? A: I mean we take it to the limit. For example, the regulations require a minimum inclination of just 35% of the hill, but at our Soligo vineyard, we reach an inclination of 72%, which is very challenging. Difficulty has never scared us, as these challenging locations give us the best results. Q: How does the Prosecco winemaking method differ from the méthode champenoise used in Champagne and other areas ? A: We use the Charmat method, meaning that the second fermentation takes place in a steel vat instead of in the bottle. We feel that the Charmat method enhances the fragrant notes of fresh pear and lime from the Glera grape when it’s cultivated on the steep, high-altitude slopes of our region. Q: How do the terroir and microclimates of your vineyards influence the characteristics of your wines, and what steps do you take to showcase these qualities? A: For us, wine is primarily made in the vineyard. Our marly soils provide great character, and our sandy soils give us the maximum expression of elegance. We also have limestone conglomerates, which provide a fruity bouquet. In addition, we benefit from our region’s numerous microclimates, which can be completely different from each other, even at short distances. Our work
focuses on expressing and enhancing the vineyard character through the knowledge of our vineyards that we pass down from generation to generation. Q: Do you incorporate sustainable practices in your sparkling wine production? A: Sustainability affects us all deeply, and we’ve made many improvements to achieve this. For example, we have a closed- loop supply chain that reuses waste materials such as used grape pomace, which we recycle to compost to be used in the vineyard. We have also invested significantly in solar energy, including an agricultural park that involves covering all our structures with solar panels. Q: Climate change appears to be having a significant impact on sparkling wine production around the world. In England, for example, we see sparkling wine production in places where it would’ve been unthinkable just a few decades ago. How has climate change affected Prosecco in general and Valdobiaddene in particular? A: Like England, I think we have, on balance, benefited. The warmer climates favor the complete maturation of the grapes, which allows us to make balanced wines with less need for residual sugar. That said, some southern exposures are becoming more challenging to manage, especially in drought years. Q: What trends or innovations in the Prosecco market are you most excited about, and how do you see them influencing your future production? A: We were among the first to recognize the importance of single vineyards in the Valdobbiadene DOCG area. Previously, the average consumer was looking primarily for entry-level products, but with the introduction of the concept of the single “cru,” that is changing. The passionate wine consumer today drinks less but drinks better. This focus on quality has helped us to remain one of the reference companies for the Valdobbiadene area. Q: Given the rising prices of Champagne over the past five to ten years, have you noticed an increase in the consumption of your wines as a more affordable alternative? A: In our opinion, these things are not strictly related. It may be that in large numbers there have been slight shifts in the balance, but at this moment we don’t believe that our sparkling wines are a “fall-back” choice from Champagne. Our growth is primarily because consumers are genuinely interested in drinking more premium sparkling wines from Italy.
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