Meet the Old, New Kids In the Spirit World How Sake and Soju, ancient spirits from Asia, have become the biggest trends in the drinks game. By Richard Harris, General Manager
J onathan Swift famously said, “Everything old is new again.” And while the quote has been used countless times over the centuries, it could have hardly found a more fitting application than when used to describe the popularity of sake and soju, two of the biggest and most popular trends in drinks in the U.S., showing up in both nightclubs and fine dining restaurants, acquiring fans both young and old. Both sake and soju have their respective commonalities, principally that they’re both made from rice. Likewise, they’re both generally subtle to neutral in flavor, more so with soju than sake. But while they do share similarities, their differences are notable. Reasonably speaking, most people, if not having tried it, have at least heard of sake. It’s been widely sold in the U.S. for decades and can be found in most well-stocked wine and spirit shops. Considered Japan’s national drink, sake can trace its history back to writings in the 3 rd century. While often referred to as “rice wine,” sake is made in a process more similar to beer. Depending on the grade of sake, additional alcohol is added sometimes, but the resulting spirit tends to have alcohol levels falling in the 13-18% range, like wine. The flavor profile and sweetness can vary, with some being on the sweet and fruity side, while others are drier and more earthy. Despite it being the most popular spirit in the world and being available in the U.S. for
nearly two decades, soju has flown under the radar of most who aren’t true devotees of K-Pop or Tik Tok videos. While identified as THE drink of Korea, soju was introduced to Koreans via the Mongols in the 14 th century. Like sake, soju is a true spirit, is traditionally made using rice that has been put through a massing process and distilled (the name “soju” translates to “burnt liquor,” a reference to the process), with the end result being a relatively light spirit of neutral flavor similar to vodka, but without the alcohol burn as it’s considerably lower in alcohol. Soju typically averages 20-25% ABV, but in some cases it can have as little as 12% due to local laws. What makes them so popular? In the case of sake, the range of nuances, from light and fruity to dry and earthy, mirror wine so much that the inclusion of sake on fine- wine lists is becoming increasingly common. On the flip side of sake, soju offers a neutral flavor, making it a “blank canvas” and an extremely versatile and high-quality mixer. The one trait that makes them extremely popular is the increased demand for low- to no-alcohol options in the wake of covid and the coming of age of “Gen Z.” But perhaps the greatest sign that sake and soju have become part of our cultural drinking zeitgeist is their appearance in that most American of pastimes, baseball. Dassai sake, one of the most popular and recognizable brands of premium sake in the world, signed a contract with the New York Yankees in 2022 to have its ads appear on
rotating signage behind home plate and other LED signage throughout Yankee Stadium, and to be sold in select premium seating areas. While Jinro, the most popular brand of soju in the world, partnered with the Los Angeles Dodgers in 2012 to sell soju at its games and at their very own “HiteJinro” bar in the stadium. We asked Caroline Hermann, a DC-based Master of Wine who also teaches sake certification classes through the Wine and Spirit Educational Trust (WSET) program at the Capital Wine School, her thoughts. “We started to see a growing interest before covid, and it’s only increased since then. Obviously, the people we see are professionals looking to expand their skill set, but it speaks to the demand you’re starting to see in the marketplace. I think as people discover how wonderfully sake pairs with food it becomes more of an accepted option in fine dining and at home as well.” Soju shows the same expansion as well, with store shelves offering soju flavored with a number of fruits and even yogurt. This versatility carries over to clubs and bars offering soju-based cocktails as a substitute to old standards like vodka, to soften the alcohol for a more health- conscious generation. So, whether you’re looking for lower- alcohol alternatives as your new “go-to,” or you just want to expand your drinks repertoire, sake and soju may be the thing for you as they tick a lot of boxes for the serious enophile and cocktail drinker.
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