Winds of Change Global climate change and its effects, both bad and surprisingly good, on wine By Richard Harris, General Manager
I t is wit hout exaggeration to say that the wine industry has experienced its fair share of crisis, with European vignerons having had two world wars and the cataclysmic ravages of phylloxera to contend with in just the past century. But while many problems are dealt with through patience or innovation, there is a growing menace that offers winemakers their most daunting and existential threat to date; global climate change. While wine generally may not be in danger of extinction, your favorite wine isn’t likely to taste the same for the rest of your life, and be prepared to accept the fact that some wines may cease to exist in the coming decades. It is unassailable that global climate change is one of the greatest threats to our planet, and we must collectively work to reverse the impacts of global warming. However, in a somewhat twisted
vineyards, destroying wineries in the West Coast of the U.S. as well as in Australia, Chile, and South Africa. Damages associated with wildfires extend even to those vineyards miles away from the flames. Smoke, while not physically damaging the vines or fruit, taints the grapes and makes the wine undrinkable. The overall toll of fire and smoke damage from California’s 2020 wildfires alone cost the state more than $3.7B in damages to vineyards and wineries alike. While fires and their effects are an immediate threat, a more subtle challenge to the business of wine is water. While the sunny and warm weather we associate with most wine regions offer winemakers a near-flawless backdrop with which to practice their craft, they are running into increasing problems providing water to irrigate their vines. With ever- growing populations and historic droughts taxing water resources, many local
consolation prize, the impact of rising global temperatures has actually had unforeseen benefits (for want of a better term). As the winegrowing latitudes in the Northern and Southern hemispheres warm, the areas where grapes for wine can grow and thrive are expanding as well. In Europe alone, England, Belgium, the
governments are charging higher rates for access to water. This increased cost has forced some smaller wineries to forgo irrigation to mitigate the impact on their bottom line or charge more to offset the higher costs. When one thinks of the wine industry, particularly in the Old World, being open to
Chardonnay vines in Kent, UK
Netherlands and even Sweden have entered the modern fine- wine scene. In Australia, the southern island state of Tasmania is rising in popularity as its lower temperatures have made the region suitable for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. While the intensifying of seasonal weather affects the production of wine, there are residual consequences to these seasonal changes that affect the business of wine: wildfires. As summers become hotter and drier, the frequency of wildfires has increased with flames sweeping through
change and fleet of foot in making changes aren’t impressions that leap to mind. But as the threat of global climate change has coalesced into a credible threat over the past decades, the micro-changes the industry is making sets it up to evolve and present new opportunities. We as consumers can do our part, too, whether it’s donating to organizations advocating issues to fight climate change like Sunrise Movement, or changing how we live to limit our impact.
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