Ama_Sept_Oct_2022

I decided that as big as it was, it was really lined up, and it looked makeable,” said Clemens. Kapua Chan- nel was closing out, but Clemens and his two pad- dlers made it through without incident. They looked down the face of a few 10-foot set waves, holding back right at the ledge, knowing they wouldn’t make it. “But those visions are still ingrained in my head right now,” he says. “The vision of these big, massive walls that line up and look like they go all the way to Waikīkī.” And then it came—an eight-foot A-frame. They paddled for it. But as they began to drop in, the wind

Aukina Hunt, Lakela, Miles Orr and Jimmy Austin, III facing the biggest swell the South Shore has seen in 25 years.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2022 | AMA 21

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