walls to rustic blankets and wooden bed frames. The key asset of this place is nonetheless its terrace, while the red- tiled swimming pool immediately catches the eye. You’ll also be amazed by the classic view of Lisbon’s winding streets and colourful buildings, which serves to make this the perfect place to enjoy drinks at sunset. The sea- food on offer here is outstanding, as is to be expected of a coastal capital that has the Atlantic Ocean on its door- step. Innovative local chefs reinterpret Portuguese rec- ipes to create plates that are as beautiful as the azulejo tilework that adorns local palaces. When hunger hits, explore the authentic Portuguese eateries that include quiosques (kiosk-cafes), tascas (casual canteens) and pastelarias (patisseries). Pastelarias are
special praise, as it represents the perfect combination of expertise and kindliness. It’s no wonder that reserva- tions need to be made weeks in advance. The experimental tasting menus at 100 Maneiras in the Bairro Alto neighbourhood reflect the fascinat- ing biography of chef Ljubomir Stanišić — a Serb who made it to the top of Lisbon’s gastronomic scene, secur- ing a Michelin star and a place for this eatery on the list of the world’s 50 best restaurants. Over 11 or 17 “mo- ments”, as courses are called here, you can try a tribute to Bosnian scones, a sorrel tart that evokes walks in the countryside, or a savoury tea party inspired by Stanišić’s first encounter with Portuguese black pork at a seafood lunch. Adding to the drama is a dark interior filled with art, so you should get ready for a true gas- tronomic journey. The trendy Chiado neighbourhood’s By
home to the legendary pasteis de nata cus- tard tarts, which have a creamy filling that’s reminiscent of Lisbon's bright yellow trams. At first glance, The Bélem district’s Canalha restaurant resembles a traditional neighbour- hood tasca canteen at first glance. Its glass partitions and dark wood walls will prove familiar to all Lisboetas, as will its generous portions of Iberico pork with fries and black- board presenting daily offers of fresh fish. However, it becomes evident upon closer in- spection that this is a much more sophisti- cated and modern venue, reflecting the cu- linary pedigree of Michelin-starred chef and owner João Rodrígues. Local produce stars on the menu here, with even the simplest dishes – like scarlet prawns or grilled turbot accompanied by boiled potatoes and green beans – worthy of praise. The bar’s pink mar- ble counter is a genuine visual treat, and the guests seated there can enjoy dishes prepared with flame and style. Despite its discreet lo- cation under an archway on the periphery of the Bélem district, it's clear why the simple yet cosy Canalha has quickly become one of Lisbon’s most popular restaurants. Deeply rooted in Portuguese culinary tra- dition, yet totally original, the Chiado neigh- bourhood’s Oficio offers a menu that rep- resents an exciting journey of gastronomic discovery. Take, for example, the sardine toast — a refined twist on the street-food speciality that’s hugely popular during June’s Festival of Santo Antonio. Representing the main attrac- tions are the small dishes that just keep arriv- ing and are as playful as they are aesthetical- ly appealing. Thus, here spaghetti carbonara is actually black seaweed wrapped in foam of local sheep’s cheese. Succulent chunks of bonito fish are topped with a rich escabeche dressing (a seaweed taco wrapped in a crisp lettuce leaf). Be sure to leave room for the Basque-style baked cheesecake — take our word for it. Oficio’s service is also worthy of
canalha
the Wine bar, owned by one of Portugal’s oldest wine producers, provides exciting in- sight into the Portuguese viticulture scene. The first thing you’ll notice upon entering this venue is the arched ceiling that features row upon row of green wine bottles, which is definitely the most striking design detail and clearly highlights the very purpose of this bar, which belongs to the winemaking empire of José Maria da Fonseca. As the bar’s name implies, the focus here is on wines by the glass — exclusively from Portugal — but there are also plenty of bottles. Try Domini from the Douro region or Puro Talha from the Alentejo region. Several thousand bottles are also available from the bar shop. The city’s shopping offer is fabulous, but Lisbon is also home to many great bookshops – from contemporary arty spaces to anti- quated academic shops, including the oldest in the world: Livraria Bertrand. Located in Chiado, it has been selling books since 1732 and today represents one of Portugal’s larg- est sellers of books. On Rua de São Bento, the chic travel bookshop Palavra de Viajante (meaning Traveller’s Word) offers a world- wide literary tour — complete with recom- mendations from shop owner Ana Coelho. Those seeking antique maps and rare books should head to the longstanding Livraria Sá da Costa in Chiado, where they can peruse the leatherbound books on wooden shelves and vintage library trolleys. At Martinho da Arcada, one of Lisbon's oldest and most famous cafés, there are two tables that are always reserved and left empty. Those tables are set aside for Fernando Pes- soa (probably the most popular Portuguese writer) and Nobel laureate José Saramago, who – despite no longer being among the liv- ing – can always count on a spot at this café.
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