LAJFSTAJL / LIFESTYLE
PRAGUE HAS A CASTLE AND PLENTY OF BEER, while a large part of the skyline represents a UN- ESCO World Heritage Site that en- compasses Gothic, Baroque and Re- naissance architecture, together with a few Art Nouveau and Cubist mas- terpieces. However, Prague also has a vibrant contemporary scene and an ever-increasing number of styl- ish hotels that play with the city’s heritage. Most of Prague’s best ho- tels are located in close proximity to the city’s main attractions — this is one of those cities where finding ac- commodation in the centre is easy. Prague is packed with opportu- nities to take historic walks through baroque landmarks and hidden gems, but one hotel that offers its own guided tour is the Augustine, which comprises seven terracot- ta-roofed buildings of the St Thom- as monastery (which is still active) that dates back to the 13th century. The walk leads you from the recently woven zodiac tapestry above the ho- tel’s reception, through meditative herb gardens, past beautiful stained- glass windows and traversing corri- dors that lead to the church itself. A Baroque masterpiece of glistening white and gold, it has two Rubens canvases above the altar and frescoes adorning the dome high above, one of its coffins displays the skeletal remains of a saint wearing a metal mask. And then, suddenly, the door opens to reveal the monks’ refectory and a huge portrait of Debbie Harry hanging over the cocktail bar. Reli- gious and pop iconography side by side. The Blondie element was con- ceived by designer Olga Polizzi, who added colour and cubist charm for the Augustine’s opening in 2009. There’s also a vaulted cellar bar serv- ing St Thomas’s beer — which used to be brewed by the monks them- selves — and a Turkish hammam. All in all, this is a hotel that feels like a condensed version of Prague. Head to Kantýna Restaurant and treat your taste buds to various meats, freshly cut and prepared to your preference (that you can specify on the hand-written order form). The tables in this elegant former bank
post boxes located in front. En- ter the building and enjoy the fres- co-covered walls of one of the most beautiful post offices in the country (and perhaps the world). This space is open almost continuously (it on- ly closes from midnight to 2 am). Just be sure to keep your cameras and phones in your pockets, as pho- tography is prohibited. Make your way to SmetanaQ for a coffee and medovník (honey cake), and to enjoy the impressive views of the Vltava through its large win- dows. For those wanting to relax in style, there’s a cozy backroom offer- ing a selection of books to browse. Located next to this café is a shop offering unique jewellery and tex- tiles produced by Czech designers, while the second floor houses a de- sign studio. Say “dobrý den” (formal ‘hello’) when entering the café to let the locals know that you’re trying to master the language — a small ges- ture that they’ll appreciate. Klub Vzorkovna, aka Dog Bar, has achieved great popularity in re- cent years. This underground bar is both kitsch and considered, filled with swing chairs and unique seat- ing, while it is also home to a dog that’s as big as a small horse. There’s no sign above the entrance – just look for the burgundy velvet curtain covering the entrance on Národní Třída Street. Make sure you have cash at the ready, which you ex- change for a chip that’s used to pay for each order. If you have any of the local crowns remaining at the end of the evening, the porter will return them to you as you leave. Czechia has a rich classical mu- sic and theatre tradition, but expe- riencing it doesn’t require that you attend elegant theatres with richly decorated ceilings and gilded boxes. Providing an example of this are the shows at Jatka78, a former slaugh- terhouse in the industrial suburb of Holešovice, where a contemporary circus and dance companies perform in the ultra-cool ambience of a ware- house. Turn up extra early so you can browse the lobby gallery, engage in peoplewatching and drop in at the bar before the show starts.
AUGUSTINE
building tend to fill up quickly, so you might have to eat standing up, at the long communal table in the lobby area. If you fancy an adventur- ous approach, make a reservation for dinner with the butcher from Mon- day to Wednesday. Discover the Czech Republic‘s most beloved brand: the world’s first pilsner brewery, located at the heart of Prague, at the lower end of Wenceslas Square. ‘Pilsner Urquell: The Original Beer Experience’ leads you on a 90-minute tour with an au- dio guide, light shows, a game room and, of course, beer tasting. This is a great opportunity to learn more about Czech beer culture, while this immersive tour also presents three traditional beer pouring techniques, each producing different sized heads. And the end of the tour doesn’t mean the end of the drinking, as your tour ticket includes two more beers in the Beer Hall. Raise a toast and de- clare “na zdraví” as you enjoy this creamy, delicious beer. One of Czechia’s most popular farmers’ markets offers its wares four times a week on the picturesque Jiřího z Poděbrad Square. This is a great place to spend a few hours ex- ploring everything from fresh fruit and apple strudel to rich bouilla- baisse from the fish stalls. And while you’re there, it’s also worth checking out the attractive cafes surrounding the square. Mamacoffee is particu- larly renowned for its high-quality coffee beans. If you’d like to send someone a postcard or letter from the heart of Bohemia, head to the Main Post Office, which is situated not far from Wenceslas Square, but don’t just drop your postcard into the
90 | Prag » Prague
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