MODA / FASHION
F ew garments have survived so many periods and fash- ion revolutions without los- ing their power and seduc- tive character. The simple white shirt is one of them. Its sym- bolism has expanded and changed since it first became a sign of social status back in the 19 th century – rep- resenting the privilege of those who could afford to keep it immaculate- ly clean. The term “white-collar” dates back to 1910, but was popularised by author Upton Sinclair, who used it to denote an office worker. There al- so doesn’t seem to be a more cinemat- ic item of clothing – think Catherine Deneuve epitomising French chic in a crisp white shirt, Diane Keaton trans- forming it into a manifesto of freedom and androgynous gender play in Annie Hall, or Uma Thurman dancing bare- foot wearing one in Pulp Fiction, her- alding a completely new era of Holly- wood at the end of the 20 th century... Its beauty is in contrast: rigid and minimalist, and yet endlessly seduc- tive. A single rolled-up sleeve and a few buttons undone can convey a mes- sage of relaxed erotic nonchalance; when ironed to perfection, it becomes the uniform of business power. Yves Saint Laurent said that a white shirt, just like a little black dress, must be a central pillar of every wardrobe. And he was right – because the white shirt always manages to remain current, never succumbing to passing trends. In periods of minimalism, it reigns su- preme with the purity of its lines; in eras of deconstruction, it transforms into a fluid layer that can be worn over everything; in periods when the clas- sics are back in fashion, it returns to its original form - impeccably ironed, buttoned up to the throat, as a rep- resentation of discipline and luxury. The white shirt was also ubiquitous on the Autumn 2025 catwalks. While The Row went with a classic version, Balenciaga’s white shirt was elongat- ed and stretched, transformed in- to a mini dress with mischievously raised collars. Prada showcased a ver- sion with romantically sloping plac- quets and puffed sleeves, with slight- ly pleated fabric. There were also more outlandish versions, like the one con-
FASHION RENAISSANCE The white shirt’s eternal appeal It isn’t just a piece of cloth; it’s a symbol of purity, power, lightness and sophistication that’s equally present on the catwalks of high fashion and on contradiction-filled streets
jured up by Issey Miyake, with the col- lar skewed to the side. Trends come and go, but the humble white shirt remains, unchanged in its essence, yet always open to new inter- pretations. The button-down shirt has broad appeal – whether we’re talking about some fast-fashion brand, French luxury house or indie designer. That’s its magic. The white shirt, this symbol of timeless elegance, is ever silent, but never unseen. Perhaps its greatest power lies in the fact that it leaves room for personali- ty. A white shirt doesn’t say too much by itself, rather it allows the wearer to be at the centre of attention. It is a blank canvas, but one that’s used to create memorable images – Carolina Herrera, with her uniform of a white shirt and skirt, achieving fashion icon status; Gisele in that Vogue editorial, unbuttoned and dishevelled, epitomis- ing modern glamour; Carrie Bradshaw in Big’s oversized shirt...
70 | Moda » Fashion
Made with FlippingBook interactive PDF creator