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Leathersellers’ Review 2024–2025
In our more eco-conscious times, manufacturers are having to think carefully about their consumption of natural resources. The use of ‘dead stock’ fabrics – previous seasons’ materials, left gathering dust in designers’ studios and warehouses – has seen growing popularity, with even high-end fashion houses promoting the use of upcycled and surplus materials.
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eather, as a by-product of the meat industry, is a natural fit for this heightened sense of awareness. From a waste material, tanners are able to create a durable, versatile material with far-reaching applications. As with any production chain there remain redundant samples, off- cuts, seconds and dead stock at tanneries, workshops and factories producing goods from leather that would otherwise be discarded. Recognising the value of utilising this high- quality material – particularly when it comes to the promotion and development of skills – the Leathersellers launched the Surplus Leather Project in 2022. The initiative accepts donations of leather no longer of commercial use to tanneries, factories and studios and distributes them to universities for use on their design courses. Some students might be looking to experiment with unfamiliar leather-working techniques, but could have been put off by the high cost of the material. Others might not have thought of working with leather, but having it laid on the table provides the opportunity to broaden their material experience. Educating the students about where leather comes from, its versatility and sustainable advantage over synthetic alternatives, is pivotal to the initiative. “We started this project because we want to give tutors and students access to leather, and allow them to learn about the possibilities of using it and explore a range of techniques,” explains Natalia Rymaszewska, Head of Grants at The Leathersellers’ Foundation. “For the first two years we had six initial education partners sharing this with their students, and now there’s 18. The enthusiasm from tutors and students alike is fuelling the growth of the programme and expansion of our partnerships, who we brought together later in the year to share experiences and strengthen connections.”
Opposite: Design ideas for using the surplus leather at Birmingham City University
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