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Kyoto FromTokyo, it’s a quick two-hour journey on the Shinkansen, or bullet train, to Kyoto. Whilst in Japan, you should absolutely travel by shinkan- sen wherever possible; everyone does. The trains are clean, comfortable, and unbelievably punc- tual, not to mention fast. At the station, grab yourself a bento box for lunch, and you’ll feel like the other travellers in the know as you crack it open and dig into your rice and salads whilst gaz- ing out the windows at Mount Fuji galloping by. Kyoto has a really traditional old-Japan im- age, and that’s not inaccurate. It was the Imperial

the old wooden teahouses where Geisha en- tertain (if you’re lucky you might spot one heading to an engagement). Meander along the canal, crossing the old stone bridge, and if you’re there during Sakura (cherry blos- som) season, you’ll find it one of the most exquisite places to experience the flush of pink petals that drives the Japanese people so wild in the Spring.

ing near them, you would completely miss out on getting to know the living, breathing Kyoto. The Nikko Princess Kyoto is ideally placed in a unique area of central Kyoto, bejeweled with traditional townhouses and temples as well as local artisans’ stores. The hotel gift shop actu- ally features several neighborhood products, in- cluding Ueba Esou, nail polishes enriched with scallop shell powder (which you might like to slick on after a soaky bath in the hotel’s natu- rally soft water, amazing for your skin). A mere step from the hotel is Fujii Gengiro’s shop, a 250-year-old traditional brush store visited

Next StopOsaka – AMere 25Minutes byExpress Train

by art restoration experts from around the world. The shop’s 90-year-old owner is a sixth gen- eration master brush maker. Cur- rently Mr. Fujii’s son and daugh- ter-in-law look after the shop, trading in the traditional way, kneeling on tatami as customers sit in low chairs, inspecting the goods presented to them. Buying handmade makeup brushes here was an exquisite experience. You will find some fabulous gifts (if you can bear to part with them!) in Kyoto. Nishiki food market is a paradise for feasters, foodies, and curious wanderers.

This is the city of Bladerunner skylines and unrestrained feasting (the Osakans coined the term kuidaore , or “eat till you drop”), so you should enjoy both. Osaka was almost com- pletely rebuilt after WWII, and much about it is thoughtfully planned, including its effi- cient public transport system. TheNikkoOsaka The Nikko Osaka is a crisp, stylish hotel smack in the middle of Minami, the most vibrant entertainment district in town. The hotel philosophy of Omotenashi, of honor- ing guests with the best hospitality, is evident in every interaction with the staff, many of whom are international and speak perfect English. We really love their custom of giv- ing guests comfy cotton PJs to wear in the room, one of the unique pleasures of travel- ling in Japan. For some glamorous evening drinks, hit up the Sky Cruiser bar on the 32nd floor–the nighttime views over Osaka are unbeatable from up there. To carry the party on later,

CHEF DISPLAYS FRESH PRODUCE

AT HOEN TEPPANYAKI RESTAURANT,

NIKKO PRINCESS HOTEL, KYOTO

Here you can pick up a Japanese steel carving knife inscribed with your name, fragrant roast- ed tea (tea lovers don’t leave Kyoto without a big bag of it, roasted right in front of you), and other weird and wonderful ingredients used in the elaborate kaiseki cuisine Kyoto is known for. Fortunately the hotel is only a ten minute walk from the market, we couldn’t stay

capital for over a thousand years, so it is fairly bursting with breathtaking temples, shrines, and priceless history. But dig deeper and you’ll find it to be an open, laid back city where you’re just as likely to find yourself strolling over a bridge in a dreamy Japanese garden, as you are sipping a sake cocktail in a funky neighborhood bar. You want to avoid getting “temple-fatigue” (when all the loveliness seems to blur into one) so we recommend choosing just a few popu- lar sites to visit–such as the famed Golden Pa- vilion, or Sanjusangen-do Temple, with its awesome 1001 gilded statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Go early morning or in the evening, when they are most peaceful. Fushimi Inari Shrine is another wonder to behold, with its tunnels of vermillion torii gates snaking their way up the mountain. Climbing those steps through the forest, the early morning sunshine glowing through the tunnel, is truly magical and will remain with you long after you leave. Nikko Princess Kyoto Many of the well-known sites are actually in the North of the city–but don’t even think of stay-

away, returning three times to eat, shop, and relish the vibe. And if you’re just too tired to leave the hotel, you can choose from four excellent restaurants (and a bar). We loved Hoen, the hotel’s sleek Teppanyaki joint, where the freshest ingre- dients are skillfully cooked on the counter grill before your very eyes. The Nikko Princess is also perfectly placed for access to the famous Geisha district of Gion. Come evening, there is no more enchanting sight in Japan than Shinbashi Dori, the flagstone street lined with

DOTONBORI CANAL, OSAKA

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