WINE&DINE
pped in the palm of the hand to release its essential oils. When inhaled, it must smell like cut grass, green tomatoes, or the olive leaf itself. Next comes a tech- nique called strippaggio - a sip and sharp inhale through the teeth which draws air into the mouth through the oil, disper- sing the liquid to all receptors. High qua- lity oil will cause a pleasant bitterness on the tongue; while swallowing it will cause a characteristic burning sensation in the back of the throat. That sensation signi- fies the presence of polyphenols, power- ful antioxidants that prove the oil is alive and of top quality. August is the ideal ti- me to visit the olive groves of Istria, Tus- cany or the Greek Peloponnese, where – ahead of the autumn harvest – you can try indigenous varieties like Istrian Bje- lica, Tuscan Frantoio or meaty Kalamata olives marinated in red vinegar. Royal perfume and oath of fidelity While the olive brings stability, it is basil that defines warm summer evenin- gs with its fragrance. Its name is derived from the Greek word basilikon, which me- ans royal, and its destiny merges two fa- ces. In the Balkans, it has a deep spiritual tradition, as it is said to have originated in the spot where Emperor Constanti- ne and Empress Helen found the True Cross. This is why it is still used in sa- cred rituals and brought into homes as a symbol of peace and as a blessing. Across
the Adriatic, in Italy, basil was viewed as pure secular magic and a symbol of love. Girls in Naples and Florence would pla- ce a pot of fresh basil in the window to signal to their suitors that the door was open. If a man accepted a sprig of basil from a girl upon meeting, it was consi- dered a tacit commitment to eternal de- votion among the people. In the culinary world, basil forms the basis of one of the most famous sauces on
the planet: pesto. However, authentic Pe- sto alla Genovese requires strict discipli- ne. Real masters never use blenders, be- cause metal blades moving at high speeds tend to oxidise and heat the tender lea- ves, causing basil to lose its bright colo- ur and become bitter. Authentic pesto is created exclusively using a marble mor- tar with a wooden pestle. The process be- gins by crushing garlic cloves with coarse sea salt until a paste is formed, after whi-
ch lightly toasted pine nuts are added, and only then lar- ge fresh basil leaves. With circular movements against the walls of the mortar, the leaves are crushed to rele- ase their essential oils. The process is completed with the addition of grated par- mesan cheese, pecorino and mild olive oil. The result is a creamy, emerald sauce that smells like pure sum- mer and represents a tra- dition that hasn’t changed for centuries. Paradajz je postao srce letnjih druženja kada je pretvoren u hladni gaspačo i lagane salate Tomatoes became the heart of summer get-togethers when they were turned into cold gazpacho and light salads
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