Sunscreen - Solar tests Science inspired, Quality Driven
SPF testing SGS IDEA and SGS IEC have been involved in in vitro and in vivo sunscreen testing for many years, relying on a continuous improvement approach to ensure our customers a high level of reliability in the results communicated to them.
In vivo Clinical testing • SPF determination • UVA PF determination
In vitro Regulatory and screening tests • UVA-PF determination • Critical wavelength
• Water resistance • Sand resistance • Sweat resistance • Specific protocols: SPF wet skin, salt water resistance • Multiport solar simulators Capabilities • Jacuzzi and sauna • ISO standards Protocols • Australia/New Zealand standard
• Boots star rating • SPF assessment • Batch control • Spectral photostability Capabilities • 1 fully equipped lab • Solarlight LS-1000 sun simulator • Labsphere UV-2000 spectrophotometer • Sunbot («Double plate» method)
Strict compliance of our study conditions with the current international methods, regular training of our teams, internal audits carried out several times a year, and participation in inter-laboratory proficiency testing schemes organized by BIPEA * , in accordance with ISO/CEI 43-1, are key elements of this approach. *Interprofessional Bureau of Analytical Studies, Paris, France - www.bipea.org
BIPEA is a non-profit organization whose mission is to challenge the performance of test laboratories vis-à-vis their results, on an international level. • For each tested product, the obtained value is consistently close to the reference value. The Z-scores recorded by our laboratories always fall within the range of-1 to +1, demonstrating their expertise. This also ensures that the results produced are reliable and meet the expected quality standards
4,600 studies carried out in 10 years 22 years of experience in suncare testing 2,800 products tested in 10 years
Protocols • ISO 24443 • ISO 23675 - NEW - • Boots star rating • Cosmetics Europe
UV Filter Analyses
List of Organic Solar Filters
ABBREVIATION
FILTER NAME
NO. CAS
FILTER TYPE
Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate Phenylbenzimidazole sufonic acid
DPDT
180898-37-7
Analysis of organic solar filters by HPLC-UV: • Internal method based on the EN norm 17156:2018 • 1 run dedicated to the analyses of water-soluble filters • 1 run dedicated to the analyses of liposoluble filters • TAT: 10 working days
Analysis of mineral solar filters ICP-AES: • Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) - LOQ: 0,5 mg/kg (obtained by calculating the dosage of Ti) • Zinc Oxide (ZnO) - LOQ: 0,7 mg/kg (obtained by calculating the dosage of Zn)
PBSA
27503-81-7 90457-82-2 4065-45-6 52793-97-2
Water soluble
TDSA, triethanolamine salt
Terephthalylidebe decamphor sulfonic acid
BZ4
Benzophenone-4
CBM
Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate
BZ3 IMC
Benzophenone-4
131-57-7
Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor
71617-10-2 36861-47-9
MBC
DHHB
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 302776-68-7
OC
Octocrylene
6197-30-4 21245-02-3 70356-09-1 5466-77-3
EHDP
Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
BMDM EHMC
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Liposoluble
EHS HMS DEBT
Ethylhexyl salicylate
118-60-5 118-56-9
Homosalate
Diethylhexyl butamido triazone
154702-15-5 88122-99-0 155633-54-8
EHT DTS
Ethylhexyl triazone
Drometrizole trisiloxane
Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol
MBBT
103597-45-1
BEMT
Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 187393-00-6
Analysis of Furocoumarins
List of tested Furocoumarins:
FUROCOUMARINES
NO. CAS
Bergapten (5-MOP) Isopimpinellin Oxypeucadanin Epoxybergamottin
484-20-8 482-27-9 737-52-0
206978-14-5
Psoralen
66-97-7 482-25-7 482-44-0 482-45-1
Byakangelicin Imperatorin Isoimperatorin
Phellopterin
2543-94-4 298-81-7 611046-59-1
Xanthotoxin (8-MOP)
Byakangelicol Bergamottin
482-46-2
• SGS expertise since 2018: methodology developed by LC-MS-MS for the Switzerland market • SGS article of «Réglementation des furocoumarines en suisse»
Solar products – biodegradability
Ready biodegradability • According to OECD 301F / ISO 9408, OECD 301A / ISO 7827, OECD 301D / ISO 10707 and OECD 301E and ISO 7827 • Duration 28 days – can be extended for up to 60 days if required • Elemental analysis (done at SGS Evry laboratory) if necessary • Use of BIMs (Bioavailability Improvement Methods) poorly water-soluble substances Deadlines: 8 to 10 weeks upon receipt of samples Inherent Biodegradability • According to OECD 302B / ISO 9888 Deadlines: 8 to 10 weeks upon receipt of samples
Biodegradability in seawater According to OECD 306 / ISO 16221 (adaptable in manometric respirometry for products that are poorly soluble in water) Deadlines: 8 to 10 weeks upon receipt of samples These studies can be conducted on the ingredients / raw materials, particularly in the context of regulatory dossiers (Rouen laboratory recognized as GLP), but also on the formulated products (adapted conclusions).
Solar products – Aquatic Ecotoxicology
Freshwater • Algal growth inhibition test (P. subcapitata) , according to OECD 201 • Acute toxicity test on daphnia (D. magna), according to OECD 202 • Fish (D. rerio) , Embryo Acute Toxicity (FET) test, according to OECD 236 Deadlines: 6 to 8 weeks after receipt of samples. Other studies available according to needs (ex : assessment of chronic toxicity, in accordance with OCDE 211 or ISO 20665) • EASZY trial (OCDE 250): detection of estrogenicactivity (ongoing development – available in September 2025)
Marine • Algal growth inhibition test (P. tricornutum) , according to ISO 10253 • Acute toxicity test on copepods (A. tonsa) , according to ISO 14669 • Inhibition of luminescence of V. fischeri (Microtox®), according to ISO 11348-3 Deadlines : 6 to 8 weeks after receipt of samples. Other studies also available according to needs (trials on other environmental compartments for a more comprehensive approach – ex : acute toxicity test on amphipods-sediments (ISO 16712) or on bivalve larvae (ISO 17244) –, chronic toxicity evaluation on A. tonsa, …) All these tests can be carried out on formulated products as well as on ingredients/raw materials, particularly in the context of regulatory dossiers (Rouen laboratory recognized as GLP).
Ecotoxicity test on corals – Reeftox
• 1 to 3 corals • 1 tested concentration in 6 replicates + 6 negative controls • Duration 96 hours Deadlines: around 3 weeks upon receipt of samples Ecotoxicity simulation of formulas on a coral reef - ‘ReefTox 12&50’ • Pre-evaluation • Test on 12 to 50 corals species • 1 tested concentration in 2 replicates + 1 negative control/species tested Deadlines: around 1 month upon receipt of samples
UV filter test - ‘ReefFilter’ • Determination of EC50, LOEC, NOEC • 1 to 3 corals • 6 tested concentrations in 6 replicates + 6 negative controls * These tests are done on perfectly mature and functional corals Test on formulated products – 1 to 3 species - ‘ReefTox 1&3’ • Pre-evaluation : Study of the composition of the formulation and its interactions once diluted in the medium; expert advice on the potential toxicity risks to corals and specific recommendations for formulating without ecotoxic risks
Contact details Jean-Gabriel DISPANS- Health & Nutrition- France Directeur Commercial- Cosmetics & Personal Care
Mobile number: +33 6 59 36 56 60 E-mail: jean-gabriel.dispans@sgs.com
Nicolas DELPIT- Health & Nutrition- France Technical-Sales Engineer- Senior Ecotoxicologist Mobile number: +33 6 29 13 27 37 E-mail: nicolas.delpit@sgs.com
Sunscreen - Solar tests Science inspired, Quality Driven
Contact us
fr.cosmeticsales@sgs.com sgs.com/en-fr SGS Cosmetics & Hygiene
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