SGS | Sunscreen - Solar tests

Sunscreen - Solar tests Experienced centers in in-vitro and in-vivo methods

Science Inspired, Quality Driven.

SPF TESTING

In vitro

SGS IDEA and SGS IEC have been involved in in vitro and in vivo sunscreen testing for many years, relying on a continuous improvement approach to ensure our customers a high level of reliabilityin the results communicated to them. Strict compliance of our study conditions with the current international methods, regular training of our teams, internal audits carried out several times a year, and participation in inter-laboratory proficiency testing schemes organized by BIPEA * , in accordance with ISO/CEI 43-1, are key elements of this approach. *Interprofessional Bureau of Analytical Studies, Paris, France - www.bipea.org BIPEA is a non-profit organization whose mission is to challenge the performance of test laboratories vis-à-vis their results, on an international level. • For each tested product, the obtained value is consistently close to the reference value. The Z-scores recorded by our laboratories always fall within the range of-1 to +1, demonstrating their expertise. This also ensures that the results produced are reliable and meet the expected quality standards.

Regulatory and screening tests

Capabilities

Protocols

• UVA-PF determination • Critical wavelength • Boots star rating • SPF assessment • Batch control • Spectral photostability

• 1 fully equipped lab • Solarlight LS-1000 sun simulator • Labsphere UV-2000 spectrophotometer • Sunbot («Double plate» method)

• ISO 24443 • ISO 23675 - NEW - • Boots star rating • Cosmetics Europe

In vivo

Protocols

Clinical testing

Capabilities

• SPF determination • UVA PF determination

• Jacuzzi and sauna • ISO standards

• Australia/New Zealand standard

• Water resistance • Sand resistance • Sweat resistance • Specific protocols: SPF wet skin, salt water resistance • Multiport solar simulators

4,600 studies carried out in 10 years 22 years of experience in suncare testing 2,800 products tested in 10 years

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UV Filter Analyses

List of Organic Solar Filters

ABBREVIATION

FILTER NAME

NO. CAS

FILTER TYPE

Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate Phenylbenzimidazole sufonic acid

DPDT

180898-37-7

Analysis of mineral solar filters ICP-AES:

PBSA

27503-81-7 90457-82-2 4065-45-6 52793-97-2

Water soluble

TDSA, triethanolamine salt

Terephthalylidebe decamphor sulfonic acid

• Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) - LOQ: 0,5 mg/kg (obtained by calculating the dosage of Ti)

BZ4

Benzophenone-4

CBM

Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate

BZ3 IMC

Benzophenone-4

131-57-7

• Zinc Oxide (ZnO) - LOQ: 0,7 mg/kg (obtained by calculating the dosage of Zn)

Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor

71617-10-2 36861-47-9

MBC

DHHB

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 302776-68-7

OC

Octocrylene

6197-30-4 21245-02-3 70356-09-1 5466-77-3

EHDP

Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA

Analysis of organic solar filters by HPLC-UV:

BMDM EHMC

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

• Internal method based on the EN norm 17156:2018

Liposoluble

EHS HMS DEBT

Ethylhexyl salicylate

118-60-5 118-56-9

Homosalate

• 1 run dedicated to the analyses of water-soluble filters

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone

154702-15-5 88122-99-0 155633-54-8

• 1 run dedicated to the analyses of liposoluble filters

EHT DTS

Ethylhexyl triazone

Drometrizole trisiloxane

• TAT: 10 working days

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol

MBBT

103597-45-1

BEMT

Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 187393-00-6

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Analysis of Furocoumarins

Solar products – biodegradability

Ready biodegradability • According to OECD 301F / ISO 9408, OECD 301A / ISO 7827, OECD 301D / ISO 10707 and OECD 301E and ISO 7827 • Duration 28 days – can be extended for up to 60 days if required

Inherent Biodegradability • According to OECD 302B / ISO 9888 Deadlines: 8 to 10 weeks upon receipt of samples

Biodegradability in seawater According to OECD 306 / ISO 16221 (adaptable in manometric respirometry for products that are poorly soluble in water)

List of tested Furocoumarins:

• SGS expertise since 2018: methodology developed by LC- MS-MS for the Switzerland market

FUROCOUMARINES

NO. CAS

Bergapten (5-MOP)

484-20-8

Isopimpinellin

482-27-9

• SGS article of «Réglementation des furocoumarines en suisse»

Deadlines: 8 to 10 weeks upon receipt of samples

Oxypeucadanin

737-52-0

Epoxybergamottin

206978-14-5

Psoralen

66-97-7

These studies can be conducted on the ingredients/raw materials, particularly in the context of regulatory dossiers (Rouen laboratory recognized as GLP), but also on the formulated products (adapted conclusions).

• Elemental analysis (done at SGS Evry laboratory) if necessary

Byakangelicin Imperatorin Isoimperatorin

482-25-7 482-44-0 482-45-1 2543-94-4

• Use of BIMs (Bioavailability Improvement Methods) poorly water-soluble substances

Phellopterin

Xanthotoxin (8-MOP)

298-81-7

Byakangelicol Bergamottin

611046-59-1

Deadlines: 8 to 10 weeks upon receipt of samples

482-46-2

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Solar products – Aquatic Ecotoxicology

Ecotoxicity test on corals – Reeftox

UV filter test - ‘ReefFilter’

• Pre-evaluation : Study of the composition of the formulation and its interactions once diluted in the medium; expert advice on the potential toxicity risks to corals and specific recommendations for formulating without ecotoxic risks. Test on formulated products – 1 to 3 species - ‘ReefTox 1&3’

Ecotoxicity simulation of formulas on a coral reef - ‘ReefTox 12&50’

Freshwater

Marine

• Algal growth inhibition test (P. subcapitata) , according to OECD 201 • Acute toxicity test on daphnia (D. magna), according to OECD 202 • Fish (D. rerio) , Embryo Acute Toxicity (FET) test, according to OECD 236 Deadlines: 6 to 8 weeks after receipt of samples. Other studies available according to needs (ex : assessment of chronic toxicity, in accordance with OCDE 211 or ISO 20665)

• Algal growth inhibition test (P. tricornutum) , according to ISO 10253 • Acute toxicity test on copepods (A. tonsa) , according to ISO 14669 • Inhibition of luminescence of V. fischeri (Microtox®), according to ISO 11348-3

• Pre-evaluation

• Determination of EC50, LOEC, NOEC

• Test on 12 to 50 corals species

• 1 to 3 corals

• 1 tested concentration in 2 replicates + 1 negative control/ species tested Deadlines: around 1 month upon receipt of samples

• 6 tested concentrations in 6 replicates + 6 negative controls

Deadlines : 6 to 8 weeks after receipt of samples.

Other studies also available according to needs (trials on other environmental compartments for a more comprehensive approach – ex : acute toxicity test on amphipods-sediments (ISO 16712) or on bivalve larvae (ISO 17244) –, chronic toxicity evaluation on A. tonsa , …) All these tests can be carried out on formulated products as well as on ingredients/raw materials, particularly in the context of regulatory dossiers (Rouen laboratory recognized as GLP).

• 1 to 3 corals

• 1 tested concentration in 6 replicates + 6 negative controls

• EASZY trial (OCDE 250): detection of estrogenicactivity (ongoing development – available in September 2025)

• Duration 96 hours

Deadlines: around 3 weeks upon receipt of samples

* These tests are done on perfectly mature and functional corals

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Contact us

Jean-Gabriel DISPANS - Health & Nutrition - France Directeur Commercial - Cosmetics & Personal Care. Mob: +33 6 59 36 56 60 E-mail: jean-gabriel.dispans@sgs.com Claire Girard - SGS Cosmetics and Personal Care - France Sales Manager Mob: +33 6 73 92 17 27 E-mail: claire.girard@sgs.com

fr.idea.commercial@sgs.com

www.sgs.com/en-fr

SGS Cosmetics & Hygiene

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