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Email: techsupport@jgelectronics.com
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Instructions for: 3D Multi-Layer Trophy Medium
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1. When you print your artwork, DO NOT print in mirror image.
2. Remove the clear plastic protective layer only from the back of the Sublimer for now, before pressing. This is the plastic covering the white side of the Sublimer 2-Tone, where your print will go. Leave the plastic on the other side in place while pressing to protect the front.
3. The 2-tone Sublimer has a clear front and a white back. When placing your print, ensure it faces the white side of the Sublimer at the back, as it will show through to the front after pressing. Use heat tape to secure the print to the 2-tone Sublimer.
4. Make sure you set the pressure of the press BEFORE you switch the press on.
Setting the pressure: * For small Sublimer pieces like the keyrings, apply very low pressure. * For medium-size Sublimers for example coaster sizes set the pressure to light-medium . * For large 20x20cm size Sublimer, use medium-high pressure. * But for pointy, sharp edge type products Big or small like Triangles, see Pages 5-6 for tips on this. NB! If you notice cracks in the printed or coated side of the Sublimer, or if the edges appear flattened or slightly melted after pressing, your pressure is too high. If you see white or unprinted areas, your pressure is too low.
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5. Once your pressure is correctly set, adjust your press to 200°C and press for 70 seconds .
6. Make sure you have the following ready:
- Place one sheet of copy paper on the table next to your press to set the hot Sublimer on immediately after pressing. - Have two full reams/packs of copy paper ready to place on top of the Sublimer while it cools. This will keep it flat and prevent bending or warping as it cools down.
7. Apply the Print to the 2Tone Sublimer. The print should face the white side of the Sublimer. Secure with heat tape.
8. For all 2-tone Sublimer products, place the product in the hot heat press. First with the print being at the bottom and the Sublimer on top.
9. Now hold the hot element of the press very close to the Sublimer, without touching it . Keep it there for 70–100 seconds to preheat this side before pressing the other side.
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10. After the Sublimer is heated, quickly turn it over so the print is on top and the Sublimer is underneath. Immediately close the press before it cools, and press for 70 seconds.
11. When time is up: • Open the press and quickly remove the print. • Work fast — place the Sublimer on top of copy paper next to the press. • Make sure the picture is facing you and the back is facing the paper on the table. This is important, as placing the wrong side down first may cause warping. • Immediately place two reams of copy paper on top.
1. Remove Print
2. Lift Sublimer from press
3. Move Sublimer to copy paper, let picture face you.
4. Place reams of copy paper on top
NB! Let the Sublimer cool completely before removing the stacks of paper. This is especially important for large pieces like clocks — lifting the paper packs before the Sublimer has cooled can cause warping. 12. After the sublimer is cooled down, remove the last protective plastic layer from the sublimer at the front.
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The final products, nice and flat:
13. T o press the metal piece, use 190 degrees and 90 seconds medium-high pressure. Make sure the print is on top of the metal facing the metal. Make sure to print only the top area of the metal so that your artwork doesn’t go underneath the wooden piece that will be applied in the end.
TIPS TO AVOID FLATTEN OUT SHARP CORNERS ON BIG OR MEDIUM SIZE SUBLIMER 2-TONE
1. Use low pressure even on the big or medium sizes for these pointy Sublimer products. 2. Secure all sides properly with heat tape to the print, so that the paper doesn’t move, to get steps 4-5 right below.
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3. Place the sublimer at the front of your press where there is less pressure. The side closest to you. Press for 200 degrees and 70 seconds. DO NOT REMOVE THE PRINT AFTER PRESSING.
4. After you press it, turn it around to see how it transferred. Because you used low pressure, you might notice blank untransfered areas on your sublimer. That is because the lowest pressure is on the front edge of the press. If you don’t see faded areas, just place it underneath a heavy object. If you do see faded spots, go to the next step, it will fix this, and work fast.
5. Quickly turn it upside down again so that the print is on top, and then swing it so that the faded spot is now pointing away from you. Press for another 30 seconds. Remove the print.
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6. This is the final result, no flatten-out corners on pointy sharp edge sublimer.
How to assemble the trophy.
Step 1. You will have one metal piece, one thick wooden piece, and one 2-tone sublimer piece.
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Step 2. You can use a hot glue gun, OR….
A specific Super glue (RECOMMENDED), you can NOT use any super glue. Some supper glues will eat the print on the sublimer and it will smudge and be one big mess. The super glue that works is GlOO it , you can find it online or at Builders, or you can use Alteco Gel Super Glue as the image below, we found it at Makro’s online store.
Step 3. Place the printed metal piece on the table like this.
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Step 4. Put glue on the back of the wooden piece, and make sure that when you apply it, the pointed side of the wood faces the same way as the pointed side of the metal. Do not put the glue on the wrong side, it should look like this. Line the edges up on the right-hand side, especially the bottom as well. You don’t want the trophy to fall over because the bottom pieces are not applied evenly.
Step 5. Now put glue on the back of the printed 2-Tone sublimer and line it up at the bottom with the wood. Centre it in the middle like this, the little corner of the sublimer will stick over the right a little bit:
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