WTPNG Issue 29

November 2023 to May 2024

Issue 29

to Papua New Guinea

Information Attractions Information Attractions Sights Sights Tours Maps Dining Shopping Entertainment Tours Maps Dining Out Entertainment

September 2022 to April 202 3

Issue 27

CONTENTS

welcome

facts & figures 8 general information 6 words & phrases calendar of events 11 port moresby 12 9

dining 19 shopping 16

map of port moresby

28 30 32 38

getting around

getting busy

the provinces

islands southern momase highlands 38 41 44 46 getting active 49 treks & adventure tours 49

surfing & kitesurfing diving & snorkelling embassies l safety & security useful contacts

54 56 50 51 52 53

map of papua new guinea

advertisers’ directory

to Papua New Guinea

COVER PHOTO PNG’s endemic Queen Alexandra’s birdwing butterfly inspired this Kenny Ng design seen on the runway at PNG Fashion Week. Photo: Oliver Regondola, Silversoul Studios Whether you are here on a business trip, on an adventure holiday or just visiting family or friends, we are delighted to welcome you. We hope you enjoy your stay and create many fond memories to share with those back home. As a visitor to Papua New Guinea, come and experience our unique culture and witness the breathtaking scenery throughout this beautiful country. This travel guide will provide many tips and pointers on exploring Port Moresby and Papua New Guinea, and help you with everything from planning an exciting tour itinerary to providing you with basic facts about the country. Please keep this guide; it will help you get the most out of your stay and open your eyes to some of the best- kept secrets of Papua New Guinea.

PUBLISHER Pacific Islands Publishing PO Box 7543, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 321 0000 Fax: +675 321 0002 MANAGING EDITOR Margo Nugent m.nugent@moore.com.pg SALES & DISTRIBUTION Maiyola Steven pipsales@moore.com.pg Ph: +675 321 0000 ART DIRECTOR Anthony Lingnonge pipart@moore.com.pg

DISCLAIMER: Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in “Welcome to Papua New Guinea” is accurate at the time of publishing. However, changes to some information may have occurred since the printing of this issue. Pacific Islands Publishing shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of or in connection with the contents of this guide. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ©2023 PACIFIC ISLANDS PUBLISHING PRINTED BY MOORE PRINTING

Papua New Guinea

Welcoming smiles at Boera village, Central Province Photo supplied by PNG Tourism Promotion Authority

You have arrived in Papua New Guinea!

Thank you for visiting. Papua New Guinea is a place where we hope you will have some of the most memorable experiences of your life.

The raw beauty and isolation of the Highlands will make every other place you have been to pale in comparison. The friendly innocence of rural Papua New Guinean villagers all over the country will touch your heart. The unspoiled islands and beaches in our coastal areas of Madang, Kimbe, Rabaul, Kokopo and Kavieng will have you returning again and again. Our country is a land full of breathtaking scenery, unique cultures and incredible biodiversity, both on land and in our seas. During your stay, should you need a few pointers, this guide will help you navigate this extraordinary country and get the most out of your visit.

Welcome!

On the ball with sport support!

Kumul Petroleum knows that sport plays a big part in people’s lives and supports a range of sporting codes for men and women including soccer, golf, rugby union, cricket, and rugby league, the latter including being the franchise owner of the champion Kroton Wigmen team and supporting the national Kumuls league side.

Kumul Petroleum Holdings Ltd

Level 6, Kina Bank Haus Douglas Street, Port Moresby CBD

+675 320 2253 www.kumulpetroleum.com

General Information

Ela Beach recreation park, Port Moresby Photo: Margo Nugent

Papua New Guinea has more than 600 islands and is home to more than 10 million people. The capital city, Port Moresby, is on the southern coast of the mainland. The national currency is the kina (kee-nah), divided into 100 toea (toy-ah). There are two major English daily newspapers: the Post-Courier and The National. Up-to-date currency values can be found in the business pages of these daily papers, at your hotel or at any one of the banking houses in the CBD. There are two national free-to-air television Papua New Guinea makes up the eastern side of New Guinea in the southwest Pacific Ocean, sharing its western border with the Indonesian province of Irian Jaya (also known as West Papua).

channels, EMTV and NBC. Most hotels provide more channels via cable or satellite television in guest rooms. Banks are open between 9am and 3pm for foreign currency exchange and general banking. Traveller’s cheques and international credit cards are accepted at all major hotels and restaurants, however it is wise to call ahead and check. All except the most remote areas of Papua New Guinea have landline and mobile phone access, and you will find a full list of international area codes in the front pages of PNG’s telephone directory (available at any post office, hotel or business). PNG has two distinct seasons, the wet season (December

to April) and the dry season (May to November). Because of the country’s dramatic geography, different areas of Papua New Guinea experience the change in seasons at different times of the year. Temperatures range from as low as 14ºC in the Highlands region to 36ºC in northern coastal areas. Water temperature in all coastal areas remains between 26º and 28ºC all year round. The entire country operates on West Pacific Standard Time (GMT +10:00) and daylight-saving time does not apply. Papua New Guineans have a richly-diverse cultural heritage. With almost 800 spoken languages and 600 different tribes throughout the country, cultures

and traditions vary greatly between people of different areas and regions. The majority of Papua New Guineans are Melanesian, however there are also many nationals and residents who have settled in PNG from other countries, including China, Malaysia, Australia, United Kingdom, New Zealand and nearby Pacific nations. Melanesian people are modest by nature; please respect the local culture and dress conservatively. In public, avoid low, plunging necklines, shorts or skirts with very high hemlines, and avoid exposing your midriff. Topless sunbathing, overly- risqué swimwear or any kind of nudity in public areas is strongly discouraged.

BISHOPS HAVE YOUR INDUSTRIAL AND SAFETY NEEDS COVERED

Warehouse & HO Wards Rd, Hohola Ph: (+675) 325 1088 Fax: (+675) 325 0083 Port Moresby

Kaislan Ave, Madang Madang

Mt. Hagen

Prince Phillip Hwy, Ranadi, Honiara Ph: (+677) 30046 Fax: (+677) 30047 Honiara

Lae

Kimbe

Karmuk St, Kokopo Kokopo

Okuk Hwy, Mt. Hagen

Cnr Malaita & Malekula St, Lae

San Remo Dr, Kimbe

Ph: (+675) 422 1344 Fax: (+675) 422 1594

Ph: (+675) 545 1990 Fax: (+675) 545 1019

Ph: (+675) 472 3799 Fax: (+675) 472 6327

Ph: (+675) 983 5500 Fax: (+675) 983 5308

Ph: (+675) 982 9911 Fax: (+675) 982 9912

Facts & Figures

Spoken Languages English, Pidgin English (Tok Pisin) and Hiri Motu.

Currency Notes K100 (green), K50

(orange), K20 (red), K10 (blue), K5 (pink) and K2 (pale green). Coinage K1, 50t, 20t, 10t and 5t coins are all made of silver.

Religion Christianity is

predominant. Local beliefs and traditions are practised in harmony with Christian beliefs.

Tax A 10% Goods &

Matschie’s tree kangaroo Georgie shows off her joey at Port Moresby Nature Park

Temperature 22ºC - 32ºC

Services Tax (or Value Added Tax) is applied to all transactions in shops, hotels, bars, restaurants and clubs. In most cases you will find GST is included in the advertised price. Tipping You are not obligated to tip in PNG, however it is appreciated in the

Photo supplied by POM Nature Park

Seasons Typically the dry

tourism and hospitality sectors. If you do wish to give a tip we advise you check with the manager or operator on how best it should be done as tips are often equally shared. Roads Vehicles in PNG are right-hand drive, and we drive on the left side of the road. International licences are accepted for up to one month. Check with the Department of Transport (ph. 327 7370) for more details. Trading Hours Standard commercial trading hours are

between Monday and Friday from 8am to 5pm, and retailers are also open on Saturdays from 8am to 12pm. Government office service hours are usually between 9am and 3pm, Monday to Friday. Electricity Electricity can be erratic and you are likely to experience some outages wherever you are in PNG. Backup power is on standby at all major hotels, restaurants and clubs. The national power supply is 240 Volts, 50 Htz. Pin type 1: / \

season is between May and November followed by a wet season in the months of December through to April.

A woman weaves an ‘ava’ (sago straining basket) in the Middle Fly, Western Province Photo: Elijah Tali, Niugini Shutterbug

For more information, contact: PNG Tourism Promotion Authority ph. 320 0211 fax. 320 0223

info@papuanewguinea.travel www.papuanewguinea.travel

Words & Phrases

“ What is that? ” Em wanem? “ That is/was very good! ” Em i gutpela stret! “ That is/was bad! ” Em no gut (pronounced goot)! “ That is/she is/he is OK. ” Em orait. “ Where are you from? ” Yu bilong wanem hap? “ I’m from England. ” Mi mangi Inglan. “ I’d like lots/plenty please. ” Mi laikim planti plis. “ I need a rest. ” Mi laik malolo liklik.

Em hamas? “ How much is this? ” Dispela em hamas? “ I’d like one please. ” Mi laikim wanpela plis. “ I would like to go to [Parliament House] ” Mi laik go long [Parliament House]. “ Can you come with me? ” Inap yu kam wantaim mi? “ No, I don’t want (to/ that/this). ” Sori nogat, mi less. “ Please, can you help me with this? ” Plis, inap yu halivim mi wantaim dispela samting?

Canoe ride in the Duke of York Islands, East New Britain Photo: Roan Paul

“ What is your name? ” Wanem nem bilong yu? “Who are you?” Yu whosait? “My name is [Sarah]” Nem bilong mi [Sarah]. “ Thank you very

much ” Tenk yu tru! “ No thank you ” Sori nogat. “ How are you? ” Yu orait? “ I’m fine ” Mi orait tasol. “ How much is that? ”

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Words & Phrases

Note: Many words from PNG’s Dutch, German, Australian and British colonial days are still in use today, and there is no change to a word or term when speaking in past, present or future tense. Plis Please Sori Sorry Wanem What Dispela This Nogat No Em nau! Yes/that’s right! Bagarap Broken/not good/sick Missis Ma’am/ “ white ” or foreign woman* Masta Sir/master/ “ white ” or foreign man* Meri Woman/girl Man/mangi Man/boy Sista/brata Sister/brother Mama/papa Mother/father Pikinini Child or children Malolo Rest/sleep/holiday Silip Sleep Haus House Raus/rausim Remove/throw out Itambu Forbidden Sindaun Sit down Sanap Stand up Dring (d-R-ing) Drink/drinking/drank Kaikai Food/eat/eating Laikim Like/would like Often used as an affectionate farewell. Wantaim Together, with Halivim Help Noken Do not No i nap Not enough or can’t Inap Enough or can Risit Receipt Pulap Full/full up Yu You Mi Me Em Him/her/it/that USEFUL TERMS

A sing-sing in Apangai village in Maprik, East Sepik

Blong/bilong

Belong/from/for (Bilong is often shortened to ‘ long ’ )

Liklik

Little/small Big/large Plenty/lots of

Bikpela

Planti Pinis

Finish/for good. (Dai pinis = deceased. Kaikai pinis = finished eating. Go pinis = leave for good)

* ‘ Missis ’ and ‘ Masta ’ are sometimes seen as derogatory, but villagers in more remote areas will address foreigners in this way without meaning offence.

Calendar of Events

2024

Early Aug TBC Early Aug TBC

Sepik River Crocodile & Arts Festival, Ambunti

Enga Cultural Show, Wabag

Aug 17-18

Hagen Cultural Show (65th anniversary), Mt Hagen Hiri Moale Festival (50th anniversary), Port Moresby

Early Sept TBC

Sept TBC Sept 14-15

Goroka Bilum Festival, Goroka Goroka Cultural Show, Goroka

Sept 16

PNG Independence Day national holiday

Sept 17-18 Oct 19-20

Kalam Festival, Simbai Morobe Show, Lae

Jiwaka lad at Paiya Mini Cultural Show, Western Highlands

Nov 2-3

National Kenu & Kundu Festival, Alotau

Photos supplied by Tourism Promotion Authority

Ela Beach on Port Moresby’s foreshore is the city’s premier recreation space Photo: Margo Nugent

Port Moresby

PNG’s capital, Port Moresby, is home to the nation’s largest international airport and host

to offices of every major corporation in the country. Port Moresby attracts thousands of business and holiday visitors every month. The port was already an important trade centre inhabited by the Motu-Koita people when English Cpt. John Moresby first arrived here, claiming the land for Britain on February 20, 1873, and naming it after his father, Adm. Sir Fairfax Moresby. It took

a further 10 years before any Europeans settled here. Port Moresby became the capital when the Territory of Papua and New Guinea was formed in 1945 and remained the capital at Independence in 1975. Port Moresby is your gateway to the spectacular sights, sounds, adventures, and

destinations to be experienced in Papua New Guinea. With an estimated population of 400,000 , it is also a city of stark contrasts. Rich colonial history, modern 21st century development and traditional cultures create the heady, chaotic mix that defines this tropical city.

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Port Moresby

Bomana War Cemetery The final resting ground for thousands of Australian and Allied soldiers of World War II is a must-see. Time your visit at dawn if possible, with the dawn service on Anzac Day a truly memorable experience. LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

POM Nature Park zookeeper Rose- Bernadette Wakrima gives a snake talk during the park’s annual Snaketastic! event

Moresby and the Central coast, and now boasts a modern visitors centre that opened in 2019. The park is popular for school excursions, bird- watching (it is home to six of the more than 40 bird-of-paradise species), weekend outings for city residents, and nature tours. Port Moresby Golf Course A championship 18-hole golf course behind Parliament House full of challenging doglegs, water obstacles and tight fairways surrounded by tall trees. On the 16th hole, you may even catch a glimpse of the resident crocodile. The clubhouse offers a bar and licensed restaurant as well as great views over the course and driving range. Dress regulations apply: collared shirts and closed shoes at all times. Port Moresby Nature Park ph. 326 0248 info@ portmoresbynaturepark.com Considered the city’s number one tourist attraction, the park is the first of its kind in the South Pacific to pass the Zoo & Aquarium Association of Australasia’s animal welfare accreditation program – confirming it as a world- standard wildlife park. As PNG’s only combined botanical and

zoological park and garden, it is the perfect place to view native animals and plants, including rare orchids and Port Moresby’s only rainforest tract, in a safe, tropical and large open space. More than 550 animals are on display including multiple species of tree kangaroos, cassowaries, wallabies, birds of paradise, parrots, pigeons, reptiles and more. On site is a popular café, souvenir shop, children’s playground and outdoor picnic areas (available for hire). The park also offers hotel transfers (bookings essential) and guided tours. Open seven days (including public holidays) 9am- 4pm, except Saturdays when it closes at 5pm. Admission (2024): Visitors: adults K20,

National Museum & Art Gallery

Independence Dr, Waigani Reopened in October 2018 after a major refurbishment, this must-see attraction houses PNG’s premier anthropological and archaeological collections that include artefacts over 40,000 years old, as well as natural history exhibits, modern art and war relics. There are five galleries, including such artefacts as a stunning ‘kula’ trading canoe from the Trobriand Islands of Milne Bay, tall posts from the Sepik used to decorate haus tambarans (spirit houses), and intricately-carved Malangan masks from New Ireland. Opening hours are Mon-Sat 9am-3pm, Sun 1pm-3pm. Admission: Free weekdays and at all times for students and children; Sat-Sun K10 (visitors); K5 (locals). Varirata National Park, Sogeri Admission: K10 adult/K6 child (visitors); K5 adult/K3 child (locals). Vehicles K50- 100 depending on size. PNG’s first national park that opened in 1973 is known for its breathtaking views of Port

students (with ID) K15, children (3-12yrs) K10. Locals: adults K10, students (with ID) K7, children (3-12yrs) K5.

Pacific Adventist Uni Markets If you’re in Port Moresby on a Sunday and don’t mind an early start, a visit to the markets at PAU, 14 Mile, is always worthwhile. The fruit and vegetables are fresh, locally grown and reasonably priced, and there are other stalls selling home-made delicacies such as

Port Moresby

Nearby Beaches Ela Beach is in the heart of Port Moresby. While not recommended for swimming, the revamped beach frontage is a pleasant place to exercise in the late afternoon and you will see many sports teams gathering here to train and get active as the sun sets. Sero Beach is a 15-minute drive from the city and the place to be if you want to get onto the local waves. The Sero Surf Club can also help arrange kitesurfing expeditions. For more information see details on surfing, p51. Loloata Island Resort is a luxurious weekend destination, accepting day visitors for a fee to swim, kayak, dive or snorkel at nearby Lion Island. Fisherman’s Island is a 20-minute boat ride from POM and a popular weekend water sports spot. Bring lots of sun protection and water as the island has no shade or facilities.

cassava cake, sago pudding and smoked fish. A tip is to save veggie scraps (not bread) to feed the extraordinarily large fish in the lily ponds on the uni’s picturesque grounds. Adventure Park & National Orchid Garden These well-maintained gardens with a popular waterslide at 14 Mile, about 20 minutes’ drive out of the city on the road to Sogeri, are built around a manmade lake where you can fish or take a paddleboat ride. There’s also a merry-go-round, Ferris wheel, and small electric train, onsite Big Rooster for hot chicken and cold drinks, a crocodile-feeding display at 3pm on weekends and fresh produce market on Sundays. Admission is free, but rides cost K5 each, paddleboat hire is K10pp per half-hour, and waterslide K20 for an all-day pass. The adjoining Orchid Garden, which boasts 3000 orchid species – the largest collection in the Southern Hemisphere, along with birds of paradise and other

native fauna, has a K5 entry fee. Open weekdays 9am- 4.30pm, weekends 9am-5pm. Crystal Rapids Admission: K30 per family vehicle (4WD recommended) or K50 for buses/trucks. Just past Sogeri, 40km from Port Moresby, these ice-cold rapids are an ideal day trip away from the busy city, with well-kept facilities including sheltered picnic tables and BBQs. Be cautious of rocks and large branches just below the surface, and always test the depth carefully before diving in. It is advisable to go in convoy with other vehicles for added security. National Parliament Haus Contact: Sergeant-at-Arms Division ph. 3277 468/400 Built in the style of a haus tambaran (house of spirits), this impressive building combines modern and cultural tradition. Don’t miss the insect display, which includes the Queen Alexandra’s birdwing – the world’s largest butterfly. Open week days 9am-3pm.

ARE YOU INTERESTED IN BECOMING A MEMBER AT THE ROYAL PAPUA YACHT CLUB? JOIN US NOW!

From its unique waterfront facilities in the heart of Port Moresby, the RPYC is the region’s leading members-only aquatic sports club and delivers exceptional family, social, dining, marina and water-based activities seven days a week. These include:

For more Information, contact us today:

Phone: 321 1700 / 321 1723

Chandlery

Restaurant, café & bar 50 gaming machines Beer garden, boardroom & function area Gym (personal & group training) Kids playground & splash park

Pee wee (junior) sailing & fishing Sailing, hobies & lasers Learn to sail courses Canoeing Fishing (game & leisure) Diving & snorkelling

.pg

www.rpyc.com.pg admin@rpyc.com.pg

Email: Website:

Secure carpark Safest place in town Over 60m balcony with a spectacular view of Fairfax Harbour

Salon & spa

Shopping

Many opportunities await you in Port Moresby to take home some unforgettable “ talking piece ” souvenirs if you can’t get out to the rural areas. Papua New Guinea is renowned for its intricate carvings, abstract artworks, unique jewellery, tribal masks, natural fibre bilum bags and much more

Locally Made Gifts, Clothes, Arts & Crafts Annie’s Pottery Cheshire Homes, Wards Rd, Hohola PNG-made pottery from local artisans

9.30am – 4.30pm Working artist studio & shop where customers can meet the bilum and accessory makers. Cherish Boutique & Cherish Lady Vision City Mall

Baskets handwoven by a network of 100 all-male Southern Highlands weavers are sold at Imbonggu Baskets at Unity Mall, Port Moresby

Maku Gifts Vision City; Gordons Business Centre Uniquely PNG clothes, fabric, handmade earrings and gifts by designer Annette Sete under her Lavagirl brand. Miss PNG Shop Vision City Mall Locally-made clothes by PNG micro- businesses along with woven baskets, bilums, trays and other crafts.

Gemini Jewellers ANG Haus, Hunter St; The Stanley Hotel; Brian Bell Plaza, Gordons; Art of Gold, Crown Hotel PNG-inspired jewellery by local craftsmen, and other locally produced gifts. Glow Boutique Vision City; Goroa St, Gordons; The Shady Rest Hotel, Boroko PNG fashion and accessories as well as quality crafts.

Bilum & Bilas Studio 6 Mile Bookmakers

Fashion and accessories.

Morea Tobo Rd Open: Mon - Fri

Hand-painted coconut shell earrings from POM business Earth and Ocean Crafts (FB/IG)

Gulf tour guide Helen Tuakara of Sepoe Village Bungalows shows a visitor a traditional Palimbe food hook (left) – used for hanging food baskets from rafters, beyond the reach of animals – and an Angoram mask (both from East Sepik). Artefacts are sold by appointment at Mango Tree Market

Oasis Steamships Compound, Waigani Two craft market regulars – Roots Accessories (Ruthie Bannon) and Kersy Wares (Daisy Rowaro) – have joined forces to open this charming PNG-made crafts and souvenir shop. 6 Mile SME Business Centre Saraga St, 6 Mile Arts & crafts.

Mango Tree Market Emporium Plaza, 8 Mile Traditional PNG art and artefacts, open by appointment. Contact Symone Dawanincura ph. 7117 2821 or themangotreemarket@ gmail.com Nature’s Gifts Port Moresby Nature Park, next to UPNG Arts, crafts and souvenirs.

Unity Mall (formerly Pacifika Women’s Network Trade Centre) Steamships Compound, Waigani PNG-made clothes,

Craft Markets Harbourside Night

Markets: held monthly (check Facebook page for dates), Harbourside boardwalk, Town 3pm- 9pm

accessories, crafts, cooked local food.

Shopping

Laguna Hotel: 1st Sat. of the month. 8am- 1pm Moresby Arts Theatre: 2nd Sat. of the month. 8am-1pm POM City Market: 2nd Sat. & Sun. of the month, grounds of National Museum & Art Gallery: 9am-5pm Holiday Inn: 3rd Sat. of the month 8am-2pm Royal Papua Yacht Club: 3rd Sat. of the month Ela Beach (TAFE college): Last Sat. of the month 8am-1pm Secondhand If time allows, we recommend browsing some of the vast secondhand clothing barns around Port Moresby. Chances of stumbling across a designer label for a few kina are high. Ask at your hotel for a guide to take you or have your driver accompany you, and

always check with your hotel that the neighbourhood is safe before setting off. Some areas can be volatile. Mondo 8am-4pm weekdays, 8am-12am Saturdays Ori Lavi Haus, Level 2, Tabari Pl, Boroko; next to the roundabout, Lawes Rd, Ela Beach side; opp Unagi Oval, Gordons; behind Able Computing, Central Waigani; Steamships Compound, Waigani Dr; opp Aviat Club, Konedobu; & opp Stop N Shop, Scratchley Rd, Badili Flex 9am-4pm weekdays only Ori Lavi Haus, Level 1, Tabari Pl, Boroko; Monian Haus, Level 1 Tabari Pl, Boroko; Malagan Haus, Level 1, near Post Office, Boroko; Garden City, Level 1,

An eagle vase made by Chambri Lakes (Sepik) potter Joel Aundambui is found at the Holiday Inn’s monthly craft market

Hubert Murray Hwy, Boroko Best to go in a group as area is notorious for pickpockets. Moale Dabua Cameron Rd, next to Wards Strip roundabout, Waigani Moresby Northwest Gerehu Stage 6 (after the fire station) 7.30am-4.30pm weekdays, 7.30am- 4pm weekends

Boroko; Okari St, Boroko; Steamships Downtown Plaza, Level 1 & 2, Champion Pde Labels 8am-5pm, closed Saturdays Steamships Compound, Waigani Dr; south side of Poreporena Freeway, Gordons; ANZ Compound, Cameron Rd; Okari St, Boroko

Yakapilin Fly Market

The Shady Rest Hotel, Boroko Tel: (675) 7168 2232

Goroa Street, Gordons Tel: (675) 7250 5555

Nambawan Super Plaza, Town Tel: (675) 8114 0001

HAIR BOUTIQUE

New Wing, Vision City, Waigani Tel: (675) 8111 8001 Shop 1, Harbourside South, Town Tel: (675) 8220 7500 “ bringing out the Glow in you ”

Dining

Port Moresby’s dining scene continues to evolve with exciting new players adding diversity and choice, including the city’s first dedicated Thai restaurant – Lucky Lucky – at Nambawan Super Plaza in McGregor St, a level down from the popular PORT restaurant with its stunning terrace view of Fairfax Harbour. On the waterfront, the Harbourside precinct remains a dining hub with Akura’s European and Vietnamese menu bringing

Tandoori chicken pizza at Mr Mike’s Pizza, Gordons

new flavours alongside family steakhouse Alibi Bar & Grill, Daikoku Japanese restaurant, and old favourites Asia Aromas and Tandoor on the Harbour. In Waigani Business District, choice in eateries also abounds, from the major hotels to shopping malls such as Rangeview Plaza where you’ll find the award-winning Numundo Steak Haus – home of PNG’s succulent Numundo beef from West New Britain. You can also try traditional pit cooking at the Hilton’s Mumu, Italian, Indian and Brazilian specialties at Lamana or yum-cha at Dynasty Chinese restaurant at Vision City Mega Mall. For pub-style or family fare, you can’t go past the social hives of the Royal Papua Yacht Club and Aviat Club. Menus are generally full of fresh local seafood, beef, chicken, fruit and vegetables, along with quality imported produce and fine wines. Café culture is also thriving, led by stalwart Duffy, which roasts its own coffee. Don’t forget to book first – nearly all of these restaurants are busy most of the week.

The major hotels are primarily where you’ll find Port Moresby’s fanciest restaurants, with a few notable exceptions. Bacchus Airways Hotel, 7 Mile PNG’s finest dining experience, this is old-world elegance at its plushest, with Fine Dining / Nouvelle Cuisine

a live pianist on a baby grand and

LUCKY LUCKY now open

MODERN THAI RESTAURANT B1, NAMBAWAN SUPER PLAZA, PORT MORESBY +675 7916 4971 | WWW.MOJOFOOD.CO

Dining

Rapala Crown Hotel, Town Modern fine dining in a comfortable and sophisticated setting with a menu of beautifully prepared European and Middle Eastern dishes. We recommend leaving room for the flambé crepes Suzette.

regular international guest chefs adding their own flavours to the Mediterranean- influenced menu. Be sure to stop by the dark timber and leather cigar lounge for an after-dinner nightcap. Silver Leaf The Stanley Hotel, Waigani Impeccable food and service, an extensive wine selection, lavish setting and 19th-floor views over Waigani that have to be seen to be

believed. A specially commissioned dry- aging fridge ensures meat flavour and texture is world-class. 15th Floor Grand Papua Hotel, Town Enjoy 15th floor views of downtown Mosbi through the floor-to- ceiling windows of this elegant restaurant, which transforms from the executive lounge at 6pm daily. Fine dining menu changes monthly.

by-side on the first floor, each with its own distinct menu. You can try Italian classics and pizzas fresh from the oven, authentic tastes of India, Thailand and Mexico, or the flavours of Brazil – from seafood to the much- talked-about churrasco (barbequed steak). Mojo Social Harbour City, Town Lively social scene with Mediterranean- inspired dishes such as traditional Greek gyros (roast meat in pita), chilli prawn spaghetti and some of the best handmade artisan pizzas in town. Try cocktail specials such as the Honey Bee (vodka, hazelnut liqueur, peach, honey and coconut cream!). Sunday sessions offer live music and 2 for 1 deals on pasta/pizza. PORT Terrace Nambawan Super Plaza, McGregor St, Town This sleek licenced terrace restaurant is one of the best spots to watch the sun set over Fairfax Harbour while enjoying bar food mainstays such as shared platters, burgers, fish and chips, and quality steak cuts.

Mumu Hilton, Hohola A unique dining

experience where you can watch chefs cook in the open kitchen and experience the communal vibe of traditional PNG earth oven cooking, using local ingredients such as lamb flaps and pitpit (local asparagus) with a modern twist. Grand Brasserie Grand Papua Hotel, Town Elegant and cosy with an intimate dining atmosphere and wide array of European favourites. The Italian, Spices & Rio’s Brazilian Steak House Lamana Hotel, Waigani A true international food precinct can be found at Lamana where three world- class restaurants have been created side-

Dining

Vue Airways Hotel Jacksons Parade, 7 Mile Dine on dishes from around the world in a uniquely PNG setting that overlooks Jacksons Airport and the Owen Stanley Range. Feast Hilton Hotel, Hohola The breakfast buffet is great value, and there’s also an enticing à la carte menu of local and international options for lunch and dinner. Jackson’s Bar & Restaurant Gateway Hotel, 7 Mile Gourmet stone- fired pizzas, pasta or chargrilled steaks with a cracker of a view over Jacksons Airport. The Wild Orchid Gateway Hotel, 7 Mile Known for its buffet

breakfasts that feature a live cooking station where the chef will cook your eggs just the way you like them, while dinner buffets change nightly. The Bootless Bay Loloata Island Resort While not officially in Port Moresby (the island is a ferry ride offshore), the newly reopened/ redeveloped resort now boasts a world- class restaurant with Indian dishes the star of the show.

Drinks on the waterfront at Alibi Bar & Grill, Harbourside

The Cellar Shady Rest Hotel Taurama Rd, Boroko Along with the well-stocked wine cellar that inspired its name, you’ll find mainly European and Indian dishes, along with some of the best steaks in town. Daikoku Japanese Steak House Harbour City & Harbourside, Town

and lounge bar, which offers a varied menu of Vietnamese and European dishes, not to mention killer harbour views. Asia Aromas Champion Pde & Harbourside, Town Delicious fresh whole steamed coral trout is a signature dish. Select from a full traditional Chinese or Thai menu, or mix and match.

Asian Cuisine From yum cha to

dumplings, sashimi and pho, you’ll find every Eastern flavour imaginable in Moresby. Akura Harbourside, Town Cherry blossoms make a pretty display at the entrance to this popular restaurant

Dining

Platters of pad Thai noodles and curry puffs are shared at Moresby’s new Thai restaurant Lucky Lucky

Oktagon Champion Pde, Town Authentic Gangnam- style Korean restaurant with adjoining bar, nightclub and pokies. Seoul House Hubert Murray Hwy, Boroko Specialises in Korean dishes but also has a Thai menu. Tasty Bite & Tandoor on the Harbour Hunter St (ANG Haus) & Harbourside, Town For a taste of India, you can’t beat the selection, authenticity

Lucky Lucky Nambawan Super Plaza, McGregor St, Town POM’s first dedicated Thai restaurant packs a flavour punch with signature dishes like crispy prawns and beef short ribs (anise and peppercorn-spiced) alongside familiar faves like pad Thai and satay skewers. Be sure to try an Asian-inspired or frozen cocktail from the balcony as the sun sets over the harbour!

Experience the showmanship and

One of the city’s oldest Chinese restaurants with a fiercely loyal following. Try the shark fin soup! House of Cuisines Steamships Compound, Waigani

sizzle of a traditional Japanese teppanyaki grill at one of the city’s favourite restaurants for almost 30 years. Fusion Bistro Harbour City, Town Varied mix of top quality southeast Asian dishes makes it popular with the lunchtime business

or affordability of either the handy

little eatery opposite Crown Hotel, or the waterfront option at Harbourside. Casual Dining Alibi Bar & Grill Harbourside, Town Choose your own cut of steak and have it cooked the way you

(opposite Décor Galore gift shop)

New eatery with dishes from around the world, but a leaning towards Indonesian and Filipino specialities such as bistek tagalog (beefsteak) with garlic rice.

crowd as well as evening diners.

Golden Bowl Tisa Haus, Waigani

Numundo Steak Haus in the heart of Port Moresby is the home of West New Britain’s Numundo prime beef

OPEN: Every day 9-9 Rangeview Plaza

CONTACT: 7425 4839 8117 9409 numundosteakhaus@gmail.com

like it while enjoying live music, a bustling bar and a direct view of the harbour. The Galley The Aviat Club, Town Known for its good pub menu and top- value lunch specials, not to mention cold beer! The fresh lobster is a standout dish. Green Haus The Stanley Hotel, Waigani Excellent breakfast buffet with live cooking stations and inhouse baked pastries and artisan breads. Dinner buffet also has a good variety.

Relaxed dining either inside or by the pool with à la carte or buffet choices. Themed buffet nights feature PNG dishes, Asian, Indian or the popular smoked cuisine. Numundo Steak Haus Rangeview Plaza, Waigani For a taste of PNG’s most succulent home- grown beef – from cattle fattened by rich palm kernel meal at Numundo Cattle Ranch in West New Britain – try a juicy rib- eye steak, roast beef or another dish fresh from the grill at this new meatlovers’ eatery upstairs at Rangeview Plaza.

Rumors Bar & Grill Bisini Dr, Boroko (inside Bisini Lawn Bowls Club) Newly opened bar and eatery with custom- made timber furniture and furnishings bringing a rustic vibe overlooking the bowling green. The Sanctuary Hotel Resort & Spa Pitpit St, Nth Waigani Known for its PNG

Salt Ela Beach Hotel, Town Beachside brasserie with an Asian and Pacific-inspired menu.

Kopi Haus Holiday Inn, Waigani

The upstairs bar is a perfect spot for

Dishes are prepared by the Numundo Steak Haus’ catering team

catching a sea breeze, while a deli and bakery offer fresh breads and pastries from 7am. Sizzler’s Gateway Hotel, 7 Mile PNG family restaurant features an all-you- can-eat salad bar, with its half rack of ribs a firm favourite. Cafés & Fast Food Baker Boy Gabaka St, Gordons Open daily 10am-9pm,

dishes using the freshest of local produce – from tapioca and fish

topped with prawns to ‘aigir’ (an East New Britain dish cooked with hot stones).

Dining

Chomping into a Kiwi deluxe lamb burger at Buffalo Burger

this family-friendly restaurant offers tasty burgers, wraps, fried chicken and chips to satisfy all your fast food cravings. There’s also a fun kids’ climbing gym. Bakeology Shady Rest Hotel Taurama Rd, Boroko This little bakery- coffee shop bakes its own bagels, burgers, wraps, quiches and artisan breads, along with to-die-for sweet treats. There’s a range of fresh juices and, of course, the coffee!

It opens at 5am if you like your fix early.

Buffalo Burger Hohola (Wards Rd); Waigani (Cameron Rd); Town (ANG Haus); Rainbow (Puma Uni

Retail Village) Traditional and

gourmet burgers plus crowd-pleasers such as southern fried chicken, buffalo nibbles (mini chicken drumsticks) and milkshakes. Burrito Central Cnr Ahuia Street & Varahe Rd, Gordons Tasty Mexican cuisine

in the heart of Gordons Industrial.

cheeses plus quality PNG produce including Goroka honey and Banz (Jiwaka) coffee beans. The Dirty Kitchen Ela Beach (inside ADF Haus); Soare St, Gordons; Hagwa St, Boroko; Rangeview Plaza, Waigani Filipino chef Darcy Miguel has had runaway success with his funky chain of burger bars that also offer tacos and customised fillings. Duffy Gabaka St, Gordons; Harbourside, Town; Jacksons Airport, 7 Mile (int. departures access) The pioneers of POM’s coffee culture, you’ll find specialty PNG coffee plus a tempting array of cakes and home-made delectables.

The Café Crown Hotel, Town Central city meeting spot that offers all-day dining. Copper Hilton Hotel, Hohola Sleek couches and a full bar with beers on tap, coffee, juices, café dining along with cakes and baked goodies. Cuppa Café Vision City, Waigani Good brewed-to- order coffee or grab a quick lunch in the middle of a busy mall. Deli KC Airways Hotel, 7 Mile Named after Airways’ founder Sir Kostas Constantinou, this light and airy deli offers POM’s biggest selection of gourmet

Indulge in Akura’s stylish menu of European and Vietnamese cuisine or try a cocktail as the sun sets over the harbour. Book Akura as a premium destination for your next event or function.

Contact: alibipng@gmail.com 3207777 / 73207777 Harbourside, Stanley Esplanade Open: Sunday – Thursday 11am to 11pm Friday – Saturday 11am – 2am

Dining

and overlooking a children’s playground while enjoying a range of dining options. The park’s gift shop is right next door. Café Palazzo Lamana Hotel, Waigani Freshly baked pastries, milkshakes, kulau (coconut water), gelato

Freshly made spring rolls at new Waigani eatery House of Cuisines

and barista-made coffee in a relaxing lounge.

The Edge Harbour City, Town Popular weekend breakfast or lunch spot where you can dine alfresco while enjoying sea views and breezes (it’s right next to the RPYC marina). The captain’s breakfast and peri peri (spicy) burgers are faves, but don’t miss the home- baked sweet treats or expertly crafted coffee.

Mity Meat Haus Kina Bank compound, cnr Waigani Dr and Cameron Rd Port Moresby’s butcher, baker and burger-maker has a huge range of meat cuts, cakes, bread, fresh sandwiches and salads to go. Nature’s Café Port Moresby Nature Park, Rainbow Relax on a deck surrounded by tropical rainforest

Golf Club, North Waigani

Overlooking the first and 14th holes with Parliament Haus as the backdrop, this café is a top spot for a weekend breakfast catchup or midweek lunch. Non-members welcome. Jeanz Café Gordons Plaza, Brian Bell Homecentre Kawai Dr, Gordons Little oasis in a busy shopping precinct.

Pea Pie Pud Puma Uni Retail Village & Service Station, Rainbow Homemade pies and hot meals with choices such as green peas, braised brisket and sweet potato (kau kau) mash or warm apple pie with ice cream.

Rainforest Café The Stanley Hotel, Waigani Port Moresby’s favourite family steakhouse with breathtaking harbour views Open for meals 11am - 11pm daily, and till 2am Fridays and Saturdays Contact alibipng@gmail.com or 3207777 / 73207777 Find us at Harbourside, Stanley Esplanade

The Hideout Royal Port Moresby

Dining

Trays of finger food on offer at the Royal Papua Yacht Club’s annual Commodore’s Ball. Photo supplied by RPYC

The living wall of plants provides a refreshing natural backdrop for a coffee or light snack. Sails Royal Papua Yacht Club, Town Overlooks the marina with magical sunset views, and a nautical- themed kids’ water park. Seven C’s Airways Hotel, 7 Mile This tranquil little cafe overlooking a water feature near the hotel lobby has a great selection of books and mags if you have some hours to kill. Tribes Coffee Club Oasis building, Steamships Compound, Waigani Dr; Lawes Rd, Ela Beach; Jacksons Domestic Airport Hearty serves of wholesome fare – from lamb shanks and fish chowder to meaty stews – along with a well-stocked bar, and of course a good brew of Highlands coffee as the owners started their cafes in Mendi.

ph. 327 8162; Harbourside ph. 320 0300; Ela Beach Hotel ph. 321 2100

Wide range of pizzas, plus pies, sandwiches, burgers and hot dishes. Mr Mike’s Pizza Company Shady Rest Hotel, Boroko; Sect 59 Lot 9 Goroa St, Gordons ph. 311 3339 Wide range of classic and gourmet pizzas, garlic bread and the famous marinated chicken wings. Bars & Nightclubs Gekko Bar Holiday Inn, Waigani Unwind and watch sports on a big screen at this friendly and well stocked bar.

Monsoon Bar The Stanley Hotel, Waigani Sophisticated, with a variety of tapas. The Rooftop Terrace Citi Boutique Hotel Lahara Av, Boroko Serves tasty kebabs, burgers and other bar food, and is the perfect place to watch rugby live as it overlooks the National Football Stadium. Summit Hilton Hotel, Hohola Try a top-shelf liquor or cocktail at this luxurious little whiskey bar on the top floor. Club Illusion Champion Pde, Town A late-night DJ playground. The Cosmopolitan Top floor, Vision City, This ritzy superclub

regularly hosts local and international bands, and is a popular venue for birthday parties, fundraisers and small business nights. Open Mon-Sat 10am till late. Lamana Gold Club Waigani Known as ‘the party capital’, this hot nightspot has resident DJs, live music stations and regular international artists. Pondo Tavern Crown Hotel, Town Daily live music, gaming and a well- stocked bar make this popular for after-five mingling.

Grand Bar The Grand Papua Hotel, Town

Elegant black leather and panelling lounge, with wooden shutters

that open to sea breezes from Ela.

Heritage Bar Crown Hotel, Town The sea view makes this a popular spot for meetings and catchups mid-Town. Happy hour has free tapas and live music.

Tapas Lounge Shady Rest Hotel

Taurama Rd, Boroko Lively little karaoke bar with a DJ in the house six days a week.

Enzo’s Express Takeaway Gateway Hotel

University of Papua New Guinea

To Gerehu

Port Moresby

Port Moresby Nature Park

To Napa Napa Rd / Lea Lea

Ensisi Valley

Port Moresby CBD

Waigani

I C C

Kaura Way

Main Wharf

Korean Embassy

Harbourside Precinct

Tokarara

Aspen Medical

Japane Embas

A C

Sir John Guise Stadium

Malaysian Embassy

Town

Hohola North

Ela Beach

Philippines Embassy

Paga Hill

APEC Haus

Fiji Embassy

Poreporena villages

To Napa Napa Rd / Lea Lea

Kaevaga

Hohola

Government House

US Embassy

French Embassy

Konedobu

Fairfax Harbour

Royal Papua Yacht Club

Aviat Club

Newtown

Indian Embassy

Badili

Town

Koki

Kaugere

Ela Beach

Koki Fish Market

Walter Bay

Gabutu

To Gerehu

To Hiritano Hwy

Morata

Nine Mile

To Sogeri

To Hiritano Hwy

9 Mile Plaza / J&Z Shopping Mall

LEGEND

EMBASSY SERVICE STATION POST OFFICE PLACE OF INTEREST POLICE STATION HOSPITAL/CLINIC 1 Akura Restaurant / Alibi Bar & Grill 2 Grand Papua Hotel 3 Crown Hotel Lucky Lucky Restaurant 5 Ela Beach Hotel 6 Buffalo Burger 4

I nternational Convention Centre

Golf Course

National Museum & Art Gallery

Parliament House

New Zealand High Commission Moresby Arts Theatre

National Library

Seven Mile

Erima

Indonesian Embassy British High Commission

ese ssy

Chinese Embassy

Australian High Commission

Gordons

7 Fusion Bistro

Vision City Mega Mall 10 9 Holiday Inn & Suites Hilton Port Moresby 8

Six Mile

The Stanley Hotel & Suites

Five Mile

Rangeview Plaza 12

Saraga

Numundo Steak Haus 13

14 Gateway Hotel

National Football Stadium

Airways Hotel & Residences

Paradise Private Hospital

Shady Rest Hotel 16

Boroko

East Boroko

Port Moresby General Hospital

Pacific nternational Hospital

Korobosea

To Taurama / Pyramid Point

Sabama

To Kila Kila / Pari

Getting Around

Lae’s new kundu (drum)-shaped international and domestic airport terminal opened in October 2023 as part of a a K750m redevelopment of Nadzab funded under a joint loan agreement with the Japanese Government. Photo suppled by JICA (Japan International Cooperation Agency)

In most towns and cities,

ph. 7630 2166 / 340 5279 / 7537 4805 WhatsApp7888 0008 Hiring a car is a good option, wherever you are in PNG. Most hire car companies will provide a driver on request. Getting around on foot is fine in provincial cities such as Alotau, Kavieng, Kokopo, Madang, Rabaul and Wewak. Check with your hotel or host beforehand if you have any hesitations

regarding safety. In general make sure you do not carry valuables on your person or wander around on foot after dark. Travel throughout Papua New Guinea is hugely dependent on aeroplanes, helicopters and passenger ships. When travelling outside of Port Moresby, flying is by far the fastest and easiest way of

getting around. Air Niugini and PNG Air operate

public transport comprises taxis and public motor vehicles (PMVs). The more reliable taxi services include: • Black Swan International – VIP Services ph. 7520 0200 • Comfort ph. 325 3046 / 7687 7563 • City Loop ph. 1800 000 • CityHopa

daily flights from Port Moresby to other parts of the country while helicopter operators can get you to the really hard-to-reach places. You may wish to make a booking for a memorable scenic ride. Tropicair and PNG Air offer specially-tailored charters as well.

Getting Busy

Sailors compete in a Hobie catamaran in the annual 3 Peaks Race, Port Moresby, October 2023. Photo: Numba Media for RPYC

Clubs The Aviat Club A popular social

the aviators’ mess during WWII. These days the Aviat Club is a family social club with a 25m swimming pool, gym, tennis

courts, squash courts, snooker lounge, newly upgraded poker machine room, indoor and outdoor

over 3000 members, 256 marina berths, a restaurant, café and bar, large children’s playground, poker machines and music (stage) facilities, the club is well-positioned to host visiting international yachts. Visitors must be accompanied and signed in by a financial member of the club. Minimum dress code of collared shirt and closed-in shoes for the gents after 6pm. Strictly no hats. Other Groups From walking groups and fishing to go-kart racing, you’ll find every possible interest catered for.

and sports club, the Aviat’s history goes back to when it was

bars, a restaurant, and a playground for the kids.

The Royal Papua Yacht Club If the invitation comes your way, take the opportunity to enjoy a cold drink or meal at the “Yoti” (which started its life as the Port Moresby Aquatic Club in 1921). The club boasts a deck that overlooks the marina and gives you what is widely regarded as the best view in town at sundown. With

POM Gymnastics offers weekly classes for children from toddlers to older ages at Taurama Aquatic Centre.

Photo: POM Gymnastics

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