PAPERmaking! Vol6 Nr1 2020

Park and Kim Fash Text (2018) 5:26

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weight fabric compared to other woven fabrics. Instead of using the unbleached weft roll, one way to give successful stretchability to the denim fabric as a way to prevent wrinkles, is by the use of cotton yarn and spandex yarn by turns or, a second way, is by using a cotton/polyester blended spun yarn. However, even though the denim fabric that used cotton yarn and spandex yarn by turns has a relatively good stretchability, there have been issues due to the denim fabric’s uneven surface because the spandex yarn is of a fine sized yarn compared to the cotton yarn. In addition, in the case of the cot- ton/polyester blended spun yarn, it has been found that stretch and fabric lightweight improvement is needed to meet consumers’ needs. Recently, a core spun yarn is used as the weft yarn in order to give the denim fabric stretch (Ozdil 2008). The core spun yarn has stretchability with a feel of cotton because it has spandex as its core yarn and it is wrapped by cotton yarn. Since the denim fabric is stiff and the color of indigo blue fades over time, without an application of finishing methods by either conventional industrial washing or new laser fading, it is not easy to achieve high quality denim wear (Juciene et al. 2006; Kan and Wong 2011; Khedher et al. 2011). In the world today, the premium denim fabric’s dye has been known as a dye that gradually and slightly fades with repeated washings and with a dehydration process. Also, there is need for comfort with softer touch, a lighter weight, and stretch to this premium fabric. With this trend, recently, there has been a development of functional denim fabrics. For example, in Japan in 2015, a paper denim fabric has been developed and used as the premium denim fabric (Park and Lee 2016). This denim fabric has received attention as it introduces the need for lightweight with improved comfort by using a cotton yarn (indigo rope-dyeing) as the warp, and the Japa- nese paper yarn as the weft. The Japanese paper denim fabric is proper for denim jean pants and/or shirts worn in warm summer months. However, problems exist with wrin- kles due to the fabric’s high rigidity and low stretchability of the paper yarn. In addition, there are consumers who want to wear denim jean pants or denim shirts, but they have a tendency to avoid these denim products due to skin allergies that are caused by a reac- tion to a chemical dye in the denim fabric. In the production of the paper yarn, a Hanji paper yarn is produced in almost the same process system as Japanese paper yarn, so the properties of the two paper yarns are quiet similar (Kim et al. 2006; Kim and Park 2008; Itoi 2001; Ishikawa and Shinohara 2001). In Korea, the Hanji paper yarn is made of Hanji paper sheets, so it has a high bulkiness. The thickness of paper yarn is greater than that of the same count of cotton yarn. As a result, the Hanji paper yarn is evaluated as a lightweight yarn because Hanji paper yarn’s diameter is larger meaning that the apparent specific gravity is lower (Kim et al. 2007; Park 2012). Therefore, it is possible to produce a lightweight denim fabric that actually feels lighter when worn by using the Hanji paper yarn as the weft. This is because the Hanji paper yarn is a paper yarn and is lightweight by its characteristic of yarn structure and is fast in absorption rate and drying speed rates. Therefore, Hanji denim fabric is a lightweight fabric material with a low specific gravity compared to existing denim fabric resulting in having excellent form stability and comfort. On the other hand, the core spun yarn used to impart elasticity to fabrics and their usage has recently been increasing. Most significantly, in the production of denim fab- rics when the core spun yarn and the paper yarn are used properly as weft, it is found

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