Park and Kim Fash Text (2018) 5:26
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that the disadvantages of the paper denim fabric’s heaviness, roughness, and wrinkles caused by low stretchability, can be greatly improved. In general, yarn count of the weft for commonly used cotton denim fabrics in summer and winter are respectively about 15 and 10 Ne. Taking this into consideration when cal- culating the count of final Hanji combination yarn, a single paper yarn count of the sum- mer and winter usage is appropriate with the count of 30 and 15 Ne respectively based on the core spun yarns 30 Ne. Thus, when weaving with the paper yarn and the core spun yarn in the weaving process, according to the season, it is also advised to select each weft yarn within a similar yarn count range compared to the preferred cotton yarn count. Therefore, in this study, we aim to manufacture the Hanji denim fabric by using either of these two yarn types for the weft: of the Hanji combination yarn (combined Hanji paper yarn with core spun yarn) or by inserting the Hanji paper yarn and the core spun yarn in a 1:1 ratio. In the warp, we plan to use two kinds of existing yarns dyed with a chemical indigo dyestuff and a natural indigo dyestuff (blue color). After manufacturing Hanji denim fabrics, we plan to test the properties of the developed Hanji denim fabrics and the existing denim fabrics to compare them. This study also plans to suggest com- mercialization of denim fabric products utilizing the Hanji denim fabrics that have the improved properties such as light fabric weight, stretch, and comfort.
Methods Manufacturing of Hanji paper yarn and combination yarn
The paper yarns used in the weft were made into two types, single yarn and combina- tion yarn. First, in the manufacturing process of a single yarn, a paper sheet was cut to a pre-determined width to make a tape yarn, and after that the single yarn was pro- duced by adding a proper twist to the tape yarn through a twisting machine. In other words, the Hanji paper sheet, with the weight of 13 g/m 2 , was cut into the tape yarn in the width of 2.75 and 3.75 mm. Then, the Hanji paper yarns, count of 16 and 11 Ne, were produced after twisting 600 and 520 tpm (Z-twist), respectively, using a twisting machine (Murata ® 363). The combination yarn was manufactured by combining paper yarn and core spun yarn. In this study, Hanji paper yarn of 16 or 30 Ne was plied in S-twist with the core spun yarn [cotton (sheath)/spandex (core)]. After that, the struc- tures of Hanji combination yarns were stabilized through the steam setting for 14 min at 105 °C. With this process, the count of Hanji combination yarn produced was 10 and 15 Ne, respectively. Manufacturing of Hanji denim fabrics Table 1 shows the specifications of Hanji denim fabrics. Denim fabrics were woven in twill (3/1) using an air jet loom (TOYOTA ® , JA4SF) and the weft (Hanji paper yarn and combination yarn) inserting speed was approximately 560–570 rpm. The warp was used in two types of cottons: a cotton yarn (8 Ne) dyed with chemical vat dyestuff and a cot- ton yarn (10 Ne) dyed with natural vat dyestuff (indigo). Four kinds of weft were used so that eight kinds of denim fabrics were produced. For weaving of the denim fabrics, the combination yarns were singly inserted, while the single yarns and core spun yarns were inserted in a 1:1 ratio. Raw materials were produced through the process of singeing,
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