Park and Kim Fash Text (2018) 5:26
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Table 1 Specifications of Hanji denim fabrics Sample code (denim fabric)
Fabric density (warp × weft per inch)
Yarn specification (abbreviation)
Warp
Weft
Raw fabric Finished fabric
DF1 (C8)
Rope-dyed cotton yarn (8 Ne; CY8)
Combination yarn (10 Ne; COY10): [Hanji paper yarn (16 Ne)/core spun yarn (30 Ne)] Combination yarn (15 Ne; COY15) [Hanji paper yarn (30 Ne)/core spun yarn (30 Ne)] Hanji paper yarn (11 Ne; HPY11) + core spun yarn (10 Ne; CSY10) Hanji paper yarn (16 Ne; HPY16) + core spun yarn (16 Ne; CSY16) Combination yarn (10 Ne; COY10): [Hanji paper yarn (16 Ne)/core spun yarn (30 Ne)] Combination yarn (15 Ne; COY15) [Hanji paper yarn (30 Ne)/core spun yarn (30 Ne)] Hanji paper yarn (11 Ne; HPY11) + core spun yarn (10 Ne; CSY10) Hanji paper yarn (16 Ne; HPY16) + core spun yarn (16 Ne; CSY16) Cotton yarn + core spun yarn
67 × 52 73 × 55
DF2 (C8)
66 × 55 75 × 61
DF3 (C8)
66 × 46 75 × 52
DF4 (C8)
66 × 43 77 × 55
DF1 (C10)
Cheese-dyed cotton yarn (10 Ne; CY10)
69 × 53 75 × 56
DF2 (C10)
69 × 55 79 × 60
DF3 (C10)
69 × 52 78 × 56
DF4 (C10)
70 × 56 83 × 60
S1 (Stretch)
Cotton yarn
–
67 × 50 82 × 67
S2 (Stretch)
Cotton yarn
Core spun yarn
–
desizing, laundry (shrink-proof), and tenter process. Table 1 shows the material specifi- cations of Hanji denim fabrics and existing denim fabrics (S1, S2) in the market.
Evaluation of properties of Hanji paper yarn and its woven fabric The tensile properties and yarn count of the Hanji single yarn and combination yarn were measured according to KSK ISO 2062 and KSK ISO 2060 (Skein method) respec- tively. The colorfastness to washing and the dimensional change in washing and drying of the fabric were measured by KSK ISO 105-C06 (A2S) and KSK ISO 5077, respectively. The elastic recovery and colorfastness to light were measured by KSK 0352 and KSK ISO 105-B02 (Xenon arc). Drying velocity and absorption velocity were measured by KSK 0815 (6.28.1-A) and KSK 0815 (6.27.1-B), respectively. The surface structures of Hanji paper yarns and combination yarns were observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and those of Hanji denim fabrics were measured by a video microscope system (Sometech Inc.). Fabric specific gravity was determined by mass per unit volume com- monly expressed, in grams per cubic centimeter.
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