Park and Kim Fash Text (2018) 5:26
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CY8 CY10 HPY11 HPY16 CSY10 CSY16 COY10 COY15 Yarn symbol
Fig. 1 Breaking stress of warp and weft yarn used for Hanji denim fabrics
Results and discussion Physical properties of yarns
Figures 1 and 2 present the tensile properties of the warp and weft yarn used to develop Hanji denim fabrics. The breaking stress of Hanji paper yarn was lower than those of cotton yarn and core spun yarn, but the paper yarn maintained relatively high break- ing strain. Since the Hanji combination yarn was obtained by doubling and twisting the structure of Hanji paper yarn and core spun yarn, the weaving ability was made more complimentary by the increased tensile strength of Hanji paper yarn. Empirically, when the paper yarn is used as the weft yarn, it is known that reducing the weft inserting speed slightly prevents yarn breakage since the paper yarn has a lower breaking stress than that of the same count of cotton yarn. Figure 3 shows the surface structure of the warp and weft yarn used in this study. Two types of warp (cotton yarn) were used, 8 and 10 Ne, respectively. The former was a rope- dyed cotton yarn and the latter was a cheese-dyed cotton yarn. In the surface structure of the yarns, the rope-dyed cotton yarn showed a rather bulky structure and the cheese- dyed cotton yarn showed a compact structure. On the other hand, for the denim fabrics, the Hanji paper single yarn, core spun yarn, and Hanji combination yarn were used as the weft. As shown in Fig. 3, the twisted shape of Hanji paper yarn showed a stable structure with little fluff on the surface unlike that of cotton yarn. The core spun yarn had a slightly bulky structure because the cotton yarn enveloped a spandex filament (core yarn). In the existing denim fabrics, the use of core spun yarn as the weft began with the development of skinny denim products in recent
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