Park and Kim Fash Text (2018) 5:26
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CY8 CY10 HPY11 HPY16 CSY10 CSY16 COY10 COY15 Yarn Symbol
Fig. 2 Breaking strain of warp and weft yarn used for Hanji denim fabrics
years, and core spun yarns were commonly used to improve the surface properties of core yarns and to produce stretch fabrics. Also, the structure of Hanji combination yarns showed that two kinds of yarns, the Hanji single yarn and the core spun yarn, were com- bined in a stable form. The study evaluated the optimal weft inserting speed with two cases using Hanji com- bination yarn alone and Hanji paper yarn and core spun yarn in a 1:1 ratio. As a result, the optimal weft inserting speed (approximately 620 rpm) for the Hanji paper yarn was approximately 90% of the cotton yarn with the same yarn count. This is because we believe the tensile strength of Hanji paper yarn and Hanji combination yarn is lower than that of ordinary cotton yarn. Figure 4 shows the surface structure of the Hanji denim fabrics. The denim fabrics of DF1 (C10) to DF4 (C10) had some natural vat dyestuff (indigo) come off in the pro- cessing and the dyestuff migrated into the weft yarn so that warp and weft yarns were not clearly distinguishable resulting in slightly lowering the colorfastness to washing. However, in general, the appearance of most of Hanji denim fabrics developed through the study seemed favorable and there was not a significant difference from the existing denim fabrics (S1 and S2) which were commercialized. Physical properties of Hanji denim fabrics As shown in Table 1 and Fig. 5, due to the shrinkage in finishing process, the finished fabric density increased significantly compared to the raw fabric. Most of the produced denim fabrics showed less than ± 5% change in the dimensional change in washing and
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