Park and Kim Fash Text (2018) 5:26
Page 7 of 13
Sample code
Surface structure
Sample code
Surface structure
CY8
HPY16
CY10
CSY16
HPY11
COY16
Fig. 3 SEM micrographs of the surface structure of warp and weft yarn
drying, which means commercialization of Hanji denim fabrics is possible. Overall, the denim fabric with rope-dyed yarn had a lower dimensional change than the fabric with cheese-dyed yarn, which indicated the rope-dyed yarn denim fabric had better dimen- sional stability. Therefore, it is suggested that the denim fabrics using cheese-dyed yarn are needed another separate treatment, such as a sanforizing finish to prevent fabric shrinkage. Also, in the same denim fabrics, the Hanji denim that used the Hanji com- bination yarn as the weft was higher in dimensional change in washing and drying than that of the Hanji denim that used Hanji single yarn and the core spun yarn in a 1:1 ratio. Table 2 shows the specific gravity, colorfastness, and elastic recovery rate of Hanji denim fabrics. Generally, in fabrics of the same weight, the characteristics of the fabrics where consumers can experience its lighter weight and the light feeling of wearing are very important to the consumers. In the study, the apparent specific gravity of the Hanji denim fabrics (0.471–0.539) produced in this study was lower than that of the exist- ing denim fabrics (0.567–0.577), so the lighter weight can be easily noticed when worn. This seemed to be due to the large thickness and bulky structure of the Hanji paper yarn compared to the same yarn count of cotton yarn. Importantly, the denim fabric with rope-dyed yarn on the warp showed a lower apparent specific gravity than that of fabric with the cheese-dyed yarn, resulting in a lighter wearing weight. In other words, in the cheese-dyeing process, since winding and unwinding tension from the dyeing bobbin was high, the yarn became less bulky and a smoother structure was obtained.
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