to ensure nutrients are well-distrib- uted, not concentrated at the surface. Always test your soil before planting to determine what nutrients or structural adjustments are needed. Tadewalt recommends holding off on fertilizer, especially early on. “Fertilizer pushes top growth, and during summer, stress can be a prob- lem,” she explained. “We hold off until the tree is established and has made it through a full growing season before introducing any nutrients.” Too much nutrient concentration at the surface can encourage horizontal root growth rather than deep anchor- ing. If the surface soil is too compact- ed, roots will waste energy struggling downward. Aerating the upper layer helps guide roots deeper, where they
Before you plant a tree, check its roots. If they’re wrapping around in circles, gently loosen or trim them so they grow outward into the soil.
sential for deep root growth and long- term success. Soil should be amended
“Too many times we see mulch piled up like a cone around the base, and over time that traps moisture against the bark and invites decay or pests,” Tade- walt warned. Mulch also helps aerate the surface soil and retain moisture, both of which en- courage healthy root growth. Be mind- ful that different types of mulch have varying effects on the soil structure and nutrient profile. PREPARE THE ROOTS Before planting, inspect the root ball. If the roots have started circling, they must be corrected — either by loosen- ing or trimming them — so that new root growth spreads outward. Neglect- ing this step can stunt the tree’s devel- opment, even in ideal conditions. EXPOSE THE ROOT FLARE The root flare — where the trunk widens at the base — should always be visible and sit right at the soil line. Burying the flare can confuse the tree’s ener- gy allocation, leading to shallow root growth and poor resistance to drought and heat. FOCUS ON SOIL COMPOSITION Loose, nutrient-rich native soil is es-
Even with the best preparation, newly planted trees can struggle in summer’s extreme conditions. Recognizing early warning signs can help you intervene before problems become irreversible. Here’s what to watch for: 1. Scorched or Curling Leaves Browning or crisping along leaf edges — especially on young foliage — is often a sign of heat stress or insufficient water reaching the canopy. Leaves may also curl inward to conserve moisture. 2. Sudden Leaf Drop While some trees naturally shed older leaves during dry spells, widespread or premature leaf drop indicates serious stress. Check soil moisture and inspect the root zone. 3. Sunscald on Bark Thin-barked young trees are vulnerable to sunscald, which appears as bleached or cracked areas on the trunk. This damage typically shows up on the southwest side and can lead to long-term health issues if ignored. 4. Slow Bud or Shoot Development If your tree appears to “stall” after planting — with little to no shoot or leaf growth — check for compact- ed roots or overly dry soil. It may be redirecting energy to survive rather than grow. 5. Fungal Growth or Insects at the Base Excess moisture around the trunk can invite problems like root rot, fungus, or insect infestations. Any soft, spongy, or discolored areas near the base should be addressed quickly. Catching these red flags early can mean the difference between a thriving tree and a failed planting. Inspect trees weekly and adjust care as needed. Signs Your Summer-Planted Tree is in Trouble
52 | Summer 2025 ArborTIMES ™
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