D I N E W I S E WITH JASON WALSH
Poggio Trattoria I f Marin can claim a “classic Italian restaurant,” Poggio would be it. The North Bay’s southern-most town may have derived its name from the Spanish— saucito means “little willow”— but there’s something indelibly Italian about Otis Redding’s sunny “dock of the bay” locale. The waterfront nautical vibe, entrenched oenophilia culture and general village-y atmosphere is as Mediterranean as the North Bay gets. Poggio certainly isn’t the only top-notch Italian restaurant in Marin—heck it’s not the only Italian restaurant in small-town Sausalito—but it might be the most definitive. Sidewalk al-fresco dining by day; warm, ambient-lighted table seating by night. An overheard buonasera! is de rigueur at Poggio. We visited on a busy weekend evening during the holidays— greens resembling holly and poinsettia lined the walls and ceiling beams with glowing Christmas lights woven in. With such seasonal décor set against hardwood floors and traditional white table linens, the place looks especially inviting in winter. Poggio’s wine list is extensive—its local selections favor Wine Country staples pinot and chardonnay, with a healthy smattering of Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Carneros and Napa (mostly cabs) in the mix. But Poggio’s specialty is fine Italian wine and if one wants an authentic taste, all manner of selection is available— from regional reds and whites to an ample menu of Piedmont-area nebbiolo, several from the heralded Barbaresco and Barolo zones. “When in Rome,” indeed (give or take a few hundred kilometers southeast of Piedmont). Poggio’s menu focuses on Norther Italian cuisine. Our meal started with sformatino ($15), a staple of the restaurant’s antipasti menu. Poggio’s is a cauliflower-based custard, its creamy richness enhanced by fonduta and brown butter, and flanked by grilled cauliflower and dates under shavings of grana Padano. Next, the tuna tartare ($19) was served alongside a mix of arugula, pine nuts and a horseradish crème fraiche; accompanied by slices of crisp crostini. Poggio was established by restauranteur and Sausalito resident Larry Mindel on Bridgeway in 2003 under the historic Casa Madrona Hotel & Spa, in the heart of the downtown. Under the kitchen leadership of executive chef and partner Ben Balesteri, the restaurant has earned Bib Gourmand recognition from Michelin (2017 and 2018) and has been named among the best Italian restaurants in the Bay Area by various Bay Area publications. Despite its foot-traffic-heavy location and regional reputation, Poggio retains a neighborhood-trattoria vibe, well removed
Warm woods and white linens? Viva l’Italia!
Poggio’s sformatino is cauliflower based, with fonduta and brown butter.
68 NorthBaybiz
February 2025
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