D I N E W I S E WITH JASON WALSH Songbird Parlour S ongbird Parlour might be the Glen Ellen-est of Sonoma County restaurants. The wooded, creek- centered northern outpost of Sonoma Valley evokes an aura of elegant timelessness—as if visitors today are getting the same basic eyeful of the enclave as roustabout author Jack London enjoyed when it served as his rustic stomping grounds more than a century ago. Songbird Parlour carries the same vibe of classic modernity—30-foot-tall ceilings, pine-green walls dotted with wine bottles, an oversized mural behind the open kitchen where chef Miller McRae’s team works its wares. It’s a modern-day “parlour” in the best sense, spelled with a U to drive home its Victorian street cred. The 40-plus-seat dining room was filled on our weekend visit. We sat at a small table near a corner, allowing for ample views of the plush surroundings in the 2,000-square- foot space in Jack London Village, the leafy creek-side row of tony shops, tasting rooms and eateries that’s become Glen Ellen’s primary visitor destination. Songbird’s 1940s-era cinderblock building was originally the home of Pagani Winery; more recently it was Olive & Vine, until that restaurant shuttered in 2016. Lauren Kershner and partner Kenneth De Alba took over in 2020, initially offering event services while putting the space through a detailed remodel. Songbird Parlour opened as a five-nights-per- week restaurant in 2022 and hasn’t looked back. Our meal kicked off with a dish of the Pacific halibut crudo ($25), a colorful blend of avocado, pickled chiles and sweetened by a cantaloup granita—nicely refreshing on our warm-evening visit. Next, the roasted beet salad ($18) balanced red beetroot with fresh strawberries and gorgonzola from Grazin’ Girl out of Valley Ford. Songbird’s dedication to local ingredients is all over the menu—after Grazin’ Girl, you’ll find Sunray Farm, Vella cheese and Sweet Scoops ice-cream namechecked on the Sonoma Valley-heavy list, not to mention Bohemian Well-Being mushrooms out of Occidental. The delightfully concise wine menu also keeps it local, centering on local labels from Alexander, Napa and Knights valleys, plus a healthy dose from Kershner’s own Sonoma Valley (Passaggio, Sixteen600, Hamel, Hamilton, Schermeister and Beltane, plus a sparkling from natural wine crusher Fres.co). The Glen Ellen vibe extends beyond the interior hardwoods and deep greens. The restaurant’s entryway
The 40-plus seat restaurant opened to five-nights-per-week service in 2022.
The beet salad highlights the restaurant’s dedication to local ingredients.
50 NorthBaybiz
October 2025
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