Tribeca 53

like a rolling stone

BY MICOL MOLINARI LAND OF THE RISING SUN

THERMAE BATH SPA J apan’s charms are not exactly a secret.The country exports a culture so recognizable, from its food to its tattoos that many of us have an idea of what the Land of the Rising Sunmight be like. (AHiroshima gentleman explained to us why Japan is known by that name. About 1400 years ago, if you looked eastward from mainland China, there were two things you knew: that the islands of Japan lay in the distance, slum- bering in the ocean, and that the dawn would al- ways break from that same horizon.) However, no amount of sushi feasting or art- ogling abroad can prepare you for the reality of this country–so vivid, so deeply sensory, in some ways crystallized in time and others frenetically speeding into the future. It’s a multilayered, multifaceted miracle, and two weeks will only allow you a glimpse into its rich and complex culture. Still, you will leave there hooked, clamoring for more. Japan is a true heaven for the curious traveller, the people- watcher, the intrepid gourmet, the history maven, the get-lost-in-the-momenter. And though it is a globally famous destination, you won’t find yourself overwhelmed by hordes of other foreign tourists. In fact, in most places outsideTokyo (and many in Tokyo) you’ll be lucky to find anyone speaking English. That said, the Japanese people are wonderfully hospitable, and will do everything possible to make your time there perfect–so you are in good hands. Prepare to go with the flow; you’ll find wonderful surprises round every corner. First Stop, Tokyo! The city encapsulates a whole world of Japanese culture–from the arcades and anime obsession thriving in the wacky geek neighborhood of Akihabara, to the serene shinto shrines steeped in history and hope at Harajuku–and much more that is beautiful and curious in between. It is a city so teeming with life and people, the energy is palpable in the air. But it’s not chaotic in the least– it’s an electrifying, and surprisingly orderly energy. The Shangri-LaHotel To immerse yourself fully in the vibe of the city, the Shangri-La is a fine place to start. Nestled on

the-top cacophony of scantily clad ladies, crazy costumes, lights, lasers, and remote-controlled robots. It was ridiculous, and a ton of fun. Origi- nally planned as a gig to draw in hard-drinking salarymen, it’s actually become quite the destina- tion for visitors to Tokyo! Come morning, we enjoyed a fabulous “Farm Fresh” breakfast in the hotel’s Piacere restaurant, where there is a clear emphasis on

the middle floors of the Marunouchi Trust tow- er, and conveniently located just next to Tokyo station, this is the place to stay to enjoy urban Tokyo. A note on train stations: unlike the rest of the world, in Japan they are centers for excel- lence, with some of the best stores and eateries built around or even inside them. Staying next to Tokyo station is a GREAT thing–just remember to work out what exit you need to come out of

and follow the signs–or you’ll be ne- gotiating the underground network of tunnels for far too long. Gazing out at the glittering sky- scrapers at night, you’ll feel the mag- netic pulse of the city. Jump on the train to Shinjuku, nightlife hub of the metropolis. Flashing neons bounce you from glowing sign to brightly lit doorway–making you feel a little like the ball inside a gigantic pinball machine. Of course, we had to pay a visit to the Robot Restaurant for its renowned show–an outrageous, over-

THE SHANGRI-LA HOTEL

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