July 2023

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CIVICO 1845 PACCHERI AL RAGU CALABRESE This may get me canceled, but personally, I don’t love Italian food. All those carbs, and the napping that must take place after… But the

SEA TAVERN SURF & TURF “DOUBLE DOUBLE” A shout out to In-N-Out Burger, the Surf & Turf “Double Double” is so much more. A Waygu-blend burger, a giant crab croquette, and a crispy hunk of pan-fried mozzarella come topped with an onion jam that seals the deal on this tasty DD. –DM

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AMBROGIO BY ACQUARELLO ROSSINI ACQUARELLO

Ragu Calabrese at Civico may have won me over. Made with a garganelli pasta, slow-braised pork ragu, Calabrian sausage, pork shoulder, pancetta, and meatballs, all topped with pecorino cheese—it’s a meat lover’s (and now my) dream. –CN

12 EL SALVADOREÑO CHEESE PUPUSAS No one makes pupusas like the women in my family. On my quest to find the most authentic ones in SD, I stumbled upon El Salvadoreño. There’s a delicate balance of masa and cheese (plus the right One of the more stunning vegan dishes in the city. Part of the vegetarian tasting menu at Ambrogio by Acquarello—a concept from Ambrogio15 owners and Michelin-star Italian chefs Silvio Salmoiraghi and Choi Cheolhyeok (of Acquarello in Venice). It takes an inherently carnivore dish— tournedos rossini (filet mignon with foie gras)—and flips it, using veggie stock, eggplant, and daikon radish in a miso broth. Plant-based magic tricks. –TJ

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THE HANDMADE CHEF MEAL PREP CO. MOTHER EARTH BUDDHA BOWL This new, entirely gluten-free eatery offers quick, healthy meals downtown that are packed with flavor. The Buddha

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PHUONG TRANG OVEN-ROASTED CATFISH Phuong Trang is the Vietnamese

icon. Decades ago, most non-Vietnamese San Diegans discovered pho here. But the real magic is this traditional catfish, cooked whole and caramelized in a clay pot—salty, tender, slightly sweet, eaten with herbs and dipped in fish sauce.

bowl comes with an ancient grain blend, red chile–glazed sweet potatoes, charred onion, portobello mushrooms, kale pesto, arugula, and red pepper miso sauce, plus a protein of your choice. –NM

Has that deep umami of the best rotisserie chickens. –TJ

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HAVANA GRILL SKIRT STEAK

At first glance, you may snub the newly opened second outpost of Havana Grill in Mission Valley based on location. But the skirt steak with rice, beans, and fried plantains is

GARIBALDI SHEET MUSIC BREAD When InterContinental Hotel first

so perfectly flavored that you almost forget you’re staring out at a parking lot. Forget

combo of cheeses) along with salty-tangy curtido that makes for a great pupusa and these bad boys get pretty damn authentic. –NM

opened, they invested in a powerhouse duo of chefs with strong local-food ethos (Paul McCabe, Amy DiBiase). Now they have another formidable pair in drinks talent Jeff Josenhans and new exec chef Ricardo Herederia (formerly of Alchemy in South Park). Sit on their patio, stare at the bay, and try this sheet music bread (diaphanously thin, crispy flatbread with whipped sheep’s milk ricotta, preserved lemon puree, and white sturgeon caviar). –TJ 15

your passport—Cuba is now just a strip mall away. –NM

MAD MUNCH GRILLED CHEEZER CO. CAROLINA CAVIAR

Munchies be damned. Mad Munch on Newport Avenue is a friend to glassy-eyed OB stoners and… others, too. With a menu of both meaty and veg cheezers, and fried sides like cheddar bombz and Old Bay–seasoned curly fries, Mad Munch quenches cravings. A recent special, the Carolina Caviar comes with homemade pimento cheese, tomatoes, Colby Jack, and cheddar on sourdough bread. Not mad at that. –MH

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23 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

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