longstanding cottage where the famous writer penned countless stories, dreaming of the farm he wanted to build on the land. At the park, I took a ride with the Triple Creek Horse Outfit . My horse for the day guided me through the woods and into a clearing, where I discovered a perfect view of the hills and vines stretched out below me. After bidding my horse goodbye, I drove through the countryside and stumbled upon VJB Cellars , where I stopped for a wine tasting—because who comes to Sonoma and doesn’t drink wine? I walked away with a bottle of their 2019 Barbera, a full-bodied red with pleasant raspberry notes. Back in Guerneville that evening, I wanted something hearty for dinner. At Brot , I found what I was craving. In German, “brot” means bread, but its figurative meaning, according to the restaurant’s owner Crista Luedtke, is “livelihood.” I started my meal with a black salt–spangled Bavarian pretzel, dunking it into spicy and sweet mustards and whipped butter. Afterward, I feasted on chicken paprikash and silky mashed potatoes. I was too stuffed for dessert, but I took an almond cake with star anise and seasonal berry compote to-go for a midnight snack in my Airstream. Never one to end the night too early, I wandered over to Main Street Bistro and Cabaret and ended up sharing a drink with the owner, Suzi Feehery. As we sipped, the Americana band The Pat and Mike Show gave a bluesy performance. Suddenly, the ground started shaking and our phones yelped with an earthquake warning. It was mild, so the band played on, treating us to a cover of Brandi Carlile’s “The Eye,” which was pretty fitting for the post-tremor haze we all felt. The amenities at Autocamp Russian River include few planned group activities, but I liked it that way. After settling back into my Airstream, I enjoyed a peaceful night with a bottle of rosé, my firepit, a book (Joan Didion—every journalist’s favorite journalist), and the campground’s complimentary s’mores kit. Freed from the responsibilities of life at home, I simply did what I liked: slathered on a face mask, luxuriated in my rainfall shower, ate my takeaway cake, and watched movies on my Airstream’s TV (I had to bring a Roku for this, but it was worth it). I loved the solitude, and I slept more deeply that night than I had in a long time. The next morning, it was time to depart. Truthfully, I didn’t want to leave Sonoma’s peaceful vistas behind. Even now, I find myself counting the days till my next visit, when I can return to unwind and breathe in wine country.
FAR LEFT At Autocamp
Russian River, the Airstreams are hard to leave. TOP The former home of Jack London’s wife, Charmaine, the House of Happy Walls now serves as a museum to the author in his namesake state park. LEFT Triple Creek Horse Outfit’s ride options through Jack London State
Park range between 30 minutes and 4 hours. BELOW Main Street Bistro and Cabaret offers nightly
live music and a robust menu of Italian food.
FUN FACT
Sonoma has seven sister cities across four continents, including Aswan, Egpyt; Kaniv, Ukraine; Pátzcuaro, Mexico; and Penglai, China.
55 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE
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