July 2023

TOP: Dragon fruit in the main market of Đà Lạt. LEFT: “At Madame Kew, which is the 2nd floor of a restaurant with a DJ. I walked in and was like, ‘Oh, this is the Kettner Exchange of Saigon.’ Saigon is a lot like New York—it’s always had a very strong Chinese influence, so this building is kind of a modern homage to those people.” BELOW: “Saigon didn’t invent the bánh mì, technically, but the Saigon bánh mì scene is incredible. This is just one of many that I tried.” RIGHT: “The last dish I had in Saigon before leaving Vietnam. I really remember it. It’s the beef noodle soup they're known for in Hue. This was fitting to have as a last meal because my family is from Hue. It was a perfect scene in the restaurant, too—the whole family was out. Kids were bussing tables, dad was chopping vegetables, mom and grandma were stirring soup.”

64 JULY 2023

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