Moda
Fashion
Anderson je stigao s hrabrim idejama i voljom da se sve počne iz početka Anderson arrived with courageous ideas and the will to start from scratch
ČINI SE DA SE TRENDOVSKE PRILIKE ME- NJAJU NIKAD INTENZIVNIJIM TEMPOM , ta- ko da ih je teško ispratiti čak i onim najupućenijim u kretanja ove industrije. Pa ipak, neka imena su se iz- dvojila kao najozbiljniji pretendenti na modni Olimp, jer je njihov dizajnerski potpis prepoznatljiv, budući da uvek nadgrađuju estetski kriterijum kuće u kojoj rade, a uticaj na ostale kolege (i scenu uopšte) impo- zantan je. Predstavljamo vam čudesni trio – Džej. V. Andersona, Žilijena Dosene i Pitera Hokingsa. TRENDING CIRCUMSTANCES SEEM TO BE CHANGING AT A TEMPO THAT’S NEVER BEEN MORE INTENSE , which is why it’s difficult for even those who are most knowledgeable about movements in this industry to keep up. But some names have none- theless distinguished themselves as the most serious contenders for the fashion Olympus, because they have a recognisable stamp as designers and always build up- on the existing aesthetic criteria of the fashion house they work for, while their influence over their other col- leagues (and the scene in general) is impressive. Here we present to you the amazing trio of JW Anderson, Julien Dossena and Peter Hawkings.
TRIJUMFALNI TRIO / THE TRIUMPHANT TRIO Nova modna garda The new fashion sentinels Ko su kreatori koji, po mišljenju modnih eksperata, svojeručno oblikuju budućnost luksuza angažovanjem u prestižnim kućama? / Who are the creators that fashion experts expect to personally shape the future of luxury with their engagements at prestigious houses?
Tekst / Words: Ivan Radojčič Fotografije / Photography: Profimedia.rs
Džej. V. Anderson („Loewe“) Eklektični heroj londonske modne scene je proslavio desetu godinu an- gažmana u „Loewe“ – što je neuobičajeno dug period u današnje vreme. Godine 2013. luksuzni konglomerat „LVMH“ angažovao ga je da preokre- ne „Loewe“, mirnu špansku kuću koja se bavi luksuznom kožnom galante- rijom, a koja je u vlasništvu ove grupe od 1996. Tada većina ljudi nije zna- la čak ni kako se ime izgovara. Anderson je u njihov atelje stigao s hrabrim idejama i voljom da se sve počne iz početka. „Pokušao sam da shvatim ka- ko izbrisati ideju o luksuzu?“, kaže on. „A onda, kako je iz toga ponovo iz- graditi?“ Jasno je da Andersonov idiosinkratični pristup vođenju kuće s bogatom tradicijom funkcioniše. To pokazuje činjenica da je mekano skul- pturalna „pazl“ torba dostigla „it bag“ status. „Ušao sam u vrlo malu kuću“, kaže Anderson. „Mislim da je otišlo dalje nego što sam ikada očekivao, u smislu kreativnosti – čak i u smislu brojeva“. JW ANDERSON (LOEWE) This eclectic hero of the London fashion scene has celebrated the tenth year of his engagement at Loewe – an unusually long period these days. He was hired back in 2013 by luxury conglomerate LVMH and tasked with creating a turnaround at Loewe, a serene Spanish house that deals with luxury leather goods and has been owned by the group since 1996. The majority of people didn't even know how to pronounce the name back then. Anderson arrived at their atelier with courageous ideas and the will to start from scratch. “I wanted to try to work out: how do you eradicate the idea of luxury?” he says. “And then how do you rebuild from that?” Anderson’s idiosyncratic approach to running a fashion house that has a rich tradition is clearly working. This is shown by the fact that Loewe’s softly sculptural Puzzle bag achieved the status of an “it bag”. “I went into a very tiny house,” says Anderson. “I think it’s gone further than I ev- er thought in terms of creativity—and even in terms of numbers.”
64 | Kreatori » Designers
Designers » Kreatori | 65
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