M O D E R N S A D D L E V O L . 1 the
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J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8
Many of us begin the new year with a list of resolutions that we hope to bring to life. Some we are excited about fulfilling, some are designed to keep us in check so we can become more fulfilled. No matter how big or small the resolutions are that we make, just taking time to reflect upon what we want to do better in the new year is a fruitful practice.In 2017, Whitney blazed the trail for leather education with the creation of our first CEU.
This newsletter represents our resolve to regularly communicate and share product knowledge with you to help support and sustain our educational initiatives. Some of the topics may vary from issue to issue depending on our activities and developments in our business. However, the core of the content will be focused on providing you with more in-depth product knowledge and industry insight to support you in your sales efforts.
The positive effect that the CEU and the CEU trainings have had on our business is already apparent. As we move forward in 2018, we are even more committed to keeping this momentum going.
Our goal is for this to be a collaborative effort. If there is a specific topic you would like us to address in a future issue, we encourage you to reach out to us at newsletter@mooreandgiles.com
Words of Wisdom
H and….burst…transparency….words like these flow freely through our leather descriptions but what do they really mean? Following are a few terms that when used properly, can paint a more vivid visual and tactile picture of our leathers for our customers: Many of our leathers have a pull-up or burst effect when manipulated or pulled taut on an application. This quality helps enhance the dimension of the leather immediately, giving it rich character and visual appeal. It is achieved through the application of waxes and oils on the surface of a leather in the finishing stages of production. A pull-up leather will change color when pulled tight, separating the waxes and oils to showcase a contrast in highs and lows. This leather type upholsters beautifully and is stunning on a tufted frame. An example type of leather is Mont Blanc. Burst or pull-up:
hand refers to a leather with a more dense or firm body. Firmer leathers emboss well and retain the emboss even when pulled over a furniture frame. Barrington is a great example of firm hand.
Nap and Tracking:
Nap and tracking are used in describing nubuck qualities. Nubucks are top grain leathers that have been slightly buffed on the surface grain of the hide. What remains is a soft nap or texture featuring a tracking effect similar to velvet. In other words, if you run your hand across the hide, you can see the imprints or tracking your fingers make on the leather’s surface. Dauphine and Cottswald are examples of nubucks with a rich tracking effect. Full grain leathers with a natural aesthetic often have a transparent, translucent quality. This transparency is seen in the finest leathers and is a window into the leather’s true aesthetic. It’s almost as if you can see notable nuances or layers of color within the leather. We often call this depth. Examples of leathers with this characteristic are Echo, Doral and Couture Calf. – – Transparency:
Hand:
This term refers to the temper or body of a leather. A leather with a soft hand tends to be more supple and fuller in body. Brighton and Carlyle are qualities with a soft hand. A firm
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F O RWA R D FAC I N G
What’s Trending in Leather
“ Fashion is once again the litmus test of the contemporary, guiding us through new paradigms, where everything is in motion. The concept of the natural shows new hybridizations, the ambiguity of belonging transforms into luminous and colored shimmer. Shades cancel out sharp and defined borders; Shine and glitter shift the perception of textures and colors; opacity and tactile experiences enhance emotions.
T wice a year, we pack our bags for Milan eager to interface with the eclectic assortment of tanneries from around the world that exhibit at Lineapelle. Although we are largely driven by our quest to discover the world’s next best upholstery leather, the show also offers us the opportunity to observe the fashion-inspired forces at play in this highly creative industry. A mecca for the world’s most coveted couture brands, Lineapelle is a show where fashion is always at the forefront. Its halls are teaming with tanneries that oscillate from traditional to fantasy fueled, where you’ll find classic offerings interspersed with the extremely avant-garde. No matter the aesthetic, all collections are designed to entice the eye and open the door to each tannery’s unique interpretations of leather.
personal purpose and relevance. A refreshing departure from the contrived and complicated, this trend is influenced by the desire to create heritage in the here and now. The relevance of unique vintage- inspired, lived-in looks with soulful character is fundamental. Materials need to tell stories that are rich in craftsmanship and grounded rather than fleeting. The focus here is on quality over consumption and the curation of materials that offer an evocative connection.
Key colors and aesthetic qualities:
• Rich colors and earth tones that exude warmth with modernity; warm browns that draw you in; deep soulful amber tones passing through to burgundy; traditional library greens
• Time-stamped, antiqued collections such as Ragtime and Bozeman
— Lineapelle FW 18.19
• Collections with a saddlery flavor and substantial weight such as Harness and Equestrian
Taking into consideration that many of these trends will not translate to the interior space, we dived deep into the most relevant ones, searching out new offerings from both new and existing tannery partners. Following are the most influential trends that are guiding us in our product design for 2018:
• Artfully weathered and distressed collections such as Whistler, Burnham, and Storm
• Character-driven collections with one-of-a-kind characteristics and eye catching attributes such as Brentwood, Potomac and Brompton
Authenticity
• Classic, fine-grain collections reminiscent of calfskin such as Kipling and Diablo > >
Authenticity is driven by the quest for materials that highlight timeless narratives and showcase
| Whistler Denim
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and Aspen that offer the highest degree of sustainability in leather • Collections such as Valhalla, Boheme and Pure that are marked by purity and simplicity of both their tannages and inherent aesthetic • Vegetable-tanned and partial vegetable- tanned collections such as Valdesa that offer remarkable color purity and instant heirloom qualities This trend is driven by the demand for materials that offer captivating and comforting sensory experiences. Marked by soft and seductive textures, they are designed to elevate the everyday experience and breathe new life into the luxury landscape. The current obsession with velvet and mohair-like moods for fabrics continues into leather as we see increased offerings of velvet-shaved furs and hair- on-hides as well as decadent suedes and nubucks. The visual and tactile opulence of these materials are designed to encourage sensory discovery and enhance environments with their rich and complex sensuality. Tactile Experience
Key colors and aesthetic qualities:
Nature-led Luxury
• Dusty, powdery pastels; chalky neutrals with washed out and worn tones; elegant autumnal tonalities that can add vibrant visual punctuation to neutrals • Softly weathered collections with a powdery hand and luxurious highs and lows such as Whistler
This trend of nature as the ultimate luxury is driven by the overwhelming desire to unplug and retreat from the demands of a technology-dominated age. The luxury of having time to turn to nature to relax and recharge has created a demand for materials that can be used to create a more accessible, nature- inspired sanctuary indoors. The focus here is on the simplicity, integrity and purity of materials of the highest quality that can provide a canvas for connection to nature. Luxury here is more about creating spiritual opulence than showcasing luxury through opulence. The sourcing of materials that offer restorative luxury and contribute to wellness and optimal living are cornerstones of this trend. • Soothing color palettes that signal a return to slowness and serenity; soft, washed neutrals, punctuated by cool blues and greens; calming gender-neutral shades of grays • The absence of stark color contrasts and borders and movement towards color fluidity and effortless blending Key colors and aesthetic qualities:
• Lavish and luminous nubuck collections such as Cottswald and Dauphine
• Soft and supple Satin Suede with striking tracking effects
Pearl Power
The new year will bring an increased demand for metallics as sophisticated, pearlescent hues take on new roles as modern day neutrals. Associated with this spring’s refreshing runway trend of optimism and positivity, these hues radiate dimension and offer a subtle shift in the perception of texture and color. Look for them to be an illuminating force in interiors rather than just a dramatic accent. • Authentic element-inspired palettes; smoky grays and mysterious blues • Sophisticated, fashion-inspired pearlescent collections such as Notting Hill Metallic • Elegant, eye-catching collections with stunning metallic tipping and accents – – Key colors and aesthetic qualities:
• Olive-tanned collections such as Eden, Terra
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| Stingray Point Stormy Hammered Silver
M E R RY & B R I G H T
Uplifting, Feel-Good Colors are in the Forecast for Spring 2018
F rom New York to London and from Paris to Milan, fashion week runways this past fall were flooded with couture collections featuring uplifting, feel-good colors that radiated positivity and optimism for Spring/Summer 2018. Grounded in powdery pastels such as lilac, periwinkle, baby yellow, dusty pink and mint green, this playful palette offered a cheerful anecdote to the negativity and strife of the past year and an opportunity for joyful self-expression from designers. Lavender and yellow proved to be the “IT” darlings of the spring/summer season, showing up in captivating shades on the catwalks in each of the esteemed fashion capitals of the world. In conjunction with Spring and Fall Fashion Weeks in New York, Pantone tracks the colors that permeate and punctuate designer collections in its annual Fashion Color Trend Report. Designed to provide color inspiration across all areas of design, it offers a rich, impeccably researched forecast of the color trends that are most likely to resonate beyond the runway.
wildly divergent and we see a kaleidoscopic bounty of uplifting shades and feel-good tones. There is a feeling of optimism and confidence driving a new vitality into fashion trends. That doesn’t mean that we don’t continue to look for more neutral or classic shades as while simple, these core basics are seasonal essentials, working well on their own as well as providing the landscape for the color complexity.” The exploration and use of color in all forms is expected for the first half of 2018 as the awareness of a more color-conscious culture emerges. Even minimalist schemes will be enhanced by subtle nuances of soft, sensual color. From gelato-inspired pastels to more intense, vibrant hues, the ability of color to draw you in and connect you emotionally has never been stronger. “Fashion, and the people who interact with it, no longer want to feel limited by traditional color guidelines,” says Eiseman. “Untypical spring shades that make for complex and original combinations, communicates the consumer’s desire to experiment with color throughout the year without any restrictions.” – –
“The desire for colorful self-expression is a key take away for Spring 2018,” says Pantone Color Institute executive director Leatrice Eiseman. “The color story is
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I N T H E N EWS
House Beautiful + Met Home
S HOW B U S I N E S S
Our Booth at BDNY
T his past November, Moore & Giles sales team members from around the world convened for the annual Boutique Design Hospitality show in New York. Our booth, featuring the new Whistler collection, was once again got accolades for being one of the best in show, receiving runner up mention this year after winning the competition in 2016.
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On the Road With Whitney
AWelcome to The Créer Group & KADO
Number of times our CEU has been presented
O ur “Leather 101” CEU has been well received across all segments of the company. From the history of leather to finish types, the CEU delivers a comprehensive understanding of leather featuring information on raw material, the tanning process and commonly used terms. Here are a few initial facts that help translate how we’ve moved the needle in 2017
T wo new companies have joined the Moore & Giles community: The Créer Group is now representing Moore & Giles in Seoul, South Korea and KADO is now representing us in Russia. The Créer Group is a Design and Procurement resource, specializing in the residential, commercial, and hospitality industries. Together with their parent company, Créer Construction, they offer design consultation and procurement of interior furnishing materials for new construction and renovation projects in South Korea. Based in Moscow, KADO’s recently renovated 2,000 square meter multi-line showroom features a newly constructed Moore & Giles display. In addition to Moore & Giles, KADO also represents American textile brands such as Kravet, Thibaut, Robert Allen and Schumacher. KADO’s network of showrooms includes auxiliary locations in St. Petersburg, Ekaterinburg, Kazan, Novosibirsk and Krasnodar.
Number of states where the CEU has been taught
Look for CEU #2 on Sustainability in mid 2018. In addition, we are hopeful for certification through the AIA for architects in 2018. Stay tuned!
Number of students who have logged onto our CEU program
Whitney Tinsley Director of Education
Anton Lyubivyy of KADO
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HOW I T ’ S MA D E
Focus on Our Transfer Process
O ur transfers are created through a unique heat-transfer process that allows for any color combination to be firmly embedded on the leather’s surface with the most intricate of detail. It is a two-step or three-step process (dependent on desired finish) that can be applied to any of the colors in our Satin Suede, Cottswald, Dauphine and even our Ragtime collection. During the first step, the pattern of your choice is applied to the leather’s surface using a clear finish or glaze. The second step allows you to layer another finish such as platinum or gold over the clear finish to further enhance the transfer’s glamour and appeal. If desired, a third step can be applied to achieve an even brighter, shinier aesthetic or a more matte appearance. As you know from visiting our Web site and reviewing our box and showroom displays, we stock samples of a variety of transfer patterns in the most popular colorways and finishes. Samples of patterns in alternative colors and finishes are made to order on 5X8 samples. The lead time is two weeks for custom samples if the base is in stock. If the base color is not in stock, the selection of an alternate color is recommended. Additionally, many more patterns are available from our suppliers. If your client is looking for a specific design that we do not stock, please send an image or direction on the desired aesthetic to your customer care representative and product development will check with our suppliers for options.
– –
Currently, there are more
than 30 different types of
finishes available. If you are
in need of a small reference
set of these finishes please
contact Jenny Wimer at
jennyw@mooreandgiles.com
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PA R I S D E CO O F F
Meet Us in Paris!
Did You Know? Is your client in search of a custom color in a pure aniline leather? Custom colors in our Dauphine and Boheme collections are available with only a 250 square foot or 5 hide minimum. Please contact your customer care representative for more details.
F or the third consecutive year, from January 18-22, Moore & Giles will host a pop-up showroom in the heart of Paris during Paris Deco Off. An international design and decoration fair for interior designers, design editors and consumers, Paris Deco Off features more than 100 of the world’s most prestigious textile and interior furnishing brands. During Paris Deco Off, stylish streets on both sides of the Seine come alive as these celebrated brands welcome visitors to their permanent and pop-up showrooms for the debut of their new collections.
As in years past, our pop-up showroom will be located at 49 Rue de Seine. As many of you know, it is a small, jewelry box-size of a space. If you are in Paris and would like to stop by or bring your clients, please let us know your preferred time and day to visit.
Additionally, on Saturday evening from 7:00 to 9:30 pm, we will be hosting a festive, catered reception and encourage you all to attend and bring guests.
Save the Date! Our next International Sales Team Meeting is scheduled for September 12-13, 2018. More details will follow in the coming months.
If you have questions or would like to schedule a time to visit with your clients, please contact Brooks at brooks@mooreandgiles.com.
À bientôt!
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