MODA / FASHION
WIND IN THE SAILS OF NAUTICAL STYLE Fashion is (once again) going through a maritime phase Oh, the sea! Breton stripes at Prada and Dior. Naval uniforms at Chanel and Moschino. Girls ready for yachting at Alaïa. Improvised life belts at Duran Lantink
Proenza Schouler
T he Spring 2025 fash- waves always ebb and flow, but what do we have to thank for this latest tsunami of enthusiasm for maritime motifs? Despite the inevitable kitsch factor of nautical clothing, which has its roots in military attire, it belongs to the category of classicism according to fashion canon. There are countless reasons why design- ers adore uniforms: they hint at ceremo- ny and romance, while providing an op- portunity for subversion. Moreover, uniforms are designed very thoughtfully. Stripes, which were adopted due to them being easy to spot when someone fell in- to the water, had already become synon- ymous with seamen in the 19 th century. The marinière or tricot rayé is the Breton striped shirt that became part of French naval uniforms in 1858 – with each shirt ion shows were dominat- ed by fair winds and calm seas for all things related to the nautical style. Fashion sporting precisely 21 horizontal blue stripes, one for each of Napoleon Bona- parte’s naval victories over the British. It was around the same time that Brit- ain’s Queen Victoria, while cruising on a royal yacht, came up with the charming idea of ordering a sailor’s uniform for the then four-year-old Albert Edward – the future King Edward VII, who was nick- named Bertie. Bertie’s father, Prince Al- bert, was so delighted at the sight of the little boy in uniform that he commis- sioned a portrait by painter Franz Xa- ver Winterhalter as a Christmas present
Dior
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