MODA / FASHION
for the Queen. That portrait was exhib- ited in 1847 at St. James’s Palace, where it was seen by more than 100,000 visi- tors. And so was born the trend of Victo- rian children's fashion that would also be accepted by both the Americans and the Japanese – with the latter even introduc- ing the sailor’s uniform as the ‘Seifuku’ standard school uniform for primary and secondary school pupils. Back in Eng- land, this tradition among the royal fam- ily continued, with Princess Diana dress- ing princes William and Harry in naval uniforms when they were children, on- ly for little Prince Louis to become a “sail- or” in 2022. In the annals of high fashion, Co- co Chanel is often credited with bring- ing Breton stripes from the navy to civil- ian life. It was in 1912 that she opened a boutique in the resort of Deauville, in- spired by seaside sports and leisure. The lightness and practicality of navy trou- sers and marinière t-shirts were key to her revolutionary androgynous aesthetic, and these pieces would later form part of the DNA of the house of Chanel. Decades later, her compatriot and fash- ion provocateur Jean-Paul Gaultier would turn naval stripes into the foundation of his design language. “My grandmother used to dress me in Breton tops, so when I think of navy stripes I feel a nostalgia for that era when I was growing up,” he once said. “At the beginning of the 1980s, I started wearing the Breton stripe top again. I wore them everywhere, even with a tuxedo for gala evenings”. Gaultier fa- mously appropriated the marinière for his 1983 men's collection L'Homme Ob- jet (Boy Toy). Inspired by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s erotic sailor film Querelle (1982), it featured models wearing short- er and more provocative versions of these striped t-shirts. By the 1990s, his favour- ite motif had been immortalised by the bottle of Le Male perfume, which took the shape of a male torso dressed in Bre- ton stripes. When a trend extends to also encompass perfumes - the ultimate driv- er of profits for most fashion houses – you know it has endless potential. Whether born of inspiration drawn from the world of the ultra-privileged, the working classes or fantasies of handsome sailors, the maritime style is always de- fined by graphic clarity, primary colour simplicity and functional tailoring.
Moschino
Kraljica Viktorija je krstarila na kraljevskoj jahti kada je došla na šarmantnu ideju da naruči mornarsku uniformu za četvorogodišnjeg Alberta Edvarda, budućeg kralja Edvarda VII Queen Victoria, while cruising on a royal yacht, came up with the charming idea of ordering a sailor’s uniform for the then four-year-old Albert Edward – the future King Edward VII
Ralph Lauren
Tommy Hilfiger
Rabanne
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