NOT TO BE MISSED
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı Constructed in 1580, this bathhouse presents the perfect fusion of classi- cal architecture and top bathing rituals. The dome with star-shaped light open- ings creates an almost spiritual atmos- phere. Upon arrival, you receive a glass of the traditional elma şerbeti [apple sherbet] beverage, after which expert as- sistants lead you through the bathing ritual. Following the treatment, you are awaited in the rest area by food and tea, while watching locals chat in this won- der of architecture only enhances the ex- perience. Çinili Hamam Originally commissioned by famous Ot- toman Admiral Barbarossa in the 16 th century, this hammam used to be deco- rated with renowned ceramic Iznik tiles and has today been restored to its full former glory. Apart from a traditional treatment, visitors can also enjoy a small museum with archaeological treasures found during the renovation, as well as guided tours on Wednesdays – available in Turkish or English. SHOPPING HAVEN Grand Bazaar Allocate an entire day to explore the 15 th -century Grand Bazaar – repre- senting one of the world’s largest in- door markets. As you navigate the 4,000 stalls lining 61 lanes, buy floral per- fume oils, coffee, pastel-coloured pash- mina scarves, and bags filled with sugary Turkish delight. Atelier Rebul For the uninformed, Atelier Rebul isn’t merely another perfume brand. Born in 1895 out of a small apothecary on Is- tanbul's Grand Rue de Péra, this brand holds the weight of history and the un- bridled charm of contemporary luxury. It's the type of brand that feels simulta- neously intimate and cosmopolitan. It opens with a spicy kick – warm, self-as- sured, magnetic. In contrast to many perfumes that are inspired by destina- tions and often seem like a souvenir in a bottle, Istanbul doesn’t try to imitate a postcard. It is more intimate than that.
From the times of ancient Rome to the Ottoman Em- pire, hammam bathhouses occu- pied a central place in the city’s every- day life – as places where people came
THE BEST OF THE GASTRO SCENE Şehzade Cağ Kebap
not only to indulge in personal care, but also to negotiate, whisper and dis- cuss politics. Though they’re no longer venues for serious discourse, ham- mams continue to play an important role in Turkish culture – while the ritu- al of visiting them before a wedding or after the birth of a child remains tra- ditional. For those wanting to experi- ence local customs first hand, visiting a hammam is a must. Divided by gen- der, they comprise warm, hot and cold rooms. Guests initially relax on heat- ed marble, which is followed by peeling and massage processes conducted with the help of special bags. After approxi- mately 40 minutes, the guests head to the cold room, where they dress and chat with friends over tea or coffee.
Despite there being kebab stalls on every streetcorner, not all of them are the same. Şehzade Cağ Kebap has a menu with just seven items, but it stands out with its simplicity, rich fla- vours and swift service. Here the lamb is charcoal grilled and the lavash bread is so thin it's almost transparent, while the spicy tomato sauce is perfectly bal- anced. Hanimeli Vegan Located in the bohemian neighbour- hood of Cihangir, this tiny cafeteria isn’t exclusively vegan, but it’s none- theless a gem. The menu is seasonal and changes on a daily basis. It is the best option for a lunch break between exploring antiquities and visiting a hammam. Try stuffed aubergines with oregano and tomatoes, cucumber salad with herbs and chili peppers, and vege- tarian mantis in tzatziki. Karaköy Lokantası This eatery is recommended by count- less locals, and for good reason - the atmosphere is jovial, while the staff is attentive and the wine list impressive. The menu is based on the mezze con- cept, with local ingredients and Turk- ish flavours. Try the garlic shrimp with chili and tomatoes – it’s so good that you’re sure to return for more. When in season, salicornia doused with thick olive oil is the perfect accompaniment to fresh fish. The potato croquettes here are even better than those found in Spain, while the crispy beetroot and courgette chips are an absolute delight.
SHANGRI-LA BOSPHORUS
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