Glycolic Acid Peels and Creams Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy-acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane. Much like salicylic acid, it dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells in the epidermis, which can then be easily removed resulting in a much younger, smoother feel to the skin. Because it is the smallest naturally occurring AHA, it can easily and more deeply penetrate the skin than other AHAs such as lactic acid. A glycolic acid peel is great for people who want to treat hyperpigmentation or fine lines and wrinkles and such things as sunspots, melisma (pigmenta- tion disorder that causes brown or gray patches on the skin) and acne scars. Glycolic acid is often found in skin creams or serums, which can also be effective in a daily skin regime.
Lactic Acid Peels and Creams Lactic acid is derived from milk and is another effective anti-aging AHA that is helpful for reducing wrinkles and pigmentation. When used in a chemical peel, lactic acid also removes the epidermis, although stronger formulas can also be used to target the dermis layer. Lactic acid is milder than glycolic acid, so I often recom- mend this for people with sensitive skin. Like the other peels above, lactic acid can treat age spots, hyperpigmentation and generally help to improve and brighten dull and uneven skin, while also improving skin tone and even help reduce large pores. While you can find lactic acid in many commercial skin creams, professional-grade skin care products are typically more effective and reliable. Retinoids Retinoids are probably one of the best known anti-aging products on the market. They are derived from vitamin A and are widely known to boost cell turnover, which can help smooth fine lines, improve age spots and pigmentation as well as help build collagen, improve skin tone and elasticity for an overall youthful glow. Unlike the AHAs and BHAs, retinoids do not remove the dead skin cells, instead the small molecules in the retinoids penetrate deep below the epi- dermis to the dermis where it then helps neutral- ize free radicals and boost elastin and collagen
production, which creates a plumping effect that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can also help reduce the size of pores and act as a mild exfoliate, which works wonders to improve skin tone and texture and it can even help balance skin hydration. If you have purchased anti-aging skin creams you are probably familiar with retinol, which is not exactly the same as retinoids. Retinol is just a specific type of retinoid usually found in commercial skincare products. It is weaker than retinoids, which are typically prescription-level products. While both technically have the same results, retinol takes longer and more consis- tent use before you typically see any significant results. As well, retinoids are FDA approved before sale, so you know they will work, while retinols in commercial skincare products aren’t always as reliable. One caution with retinoids and even retinols, is that they can irritate your skin and cause redness and even peeling. Obvious- ly the stronger the product the more risk, but I always give my patients clear instructions on how to use the products, which includes starting out slowly until your skin becomes used to it. It is also good to mix it in with your anti-aging cream to ensure you stay moisturized.
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101 JUNE 2021 • SPOTLIGHT ON BUSINESS MAGAZINE
100 SPOTLIGHT ON BUSINESS MAGAZINE • JUNE 2021
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