A breathtaking aerial view of Canal de Saint-Quentin and its surrounding city bathed in the golden hues of dusk.
N THE HEART OF THE HAUTS-DE- France region lies Aisne, a department too often bypassed by travellers racing to the South. Yet, for those who choose to linger, the area offers a rich tapestry of history, architecture, and distinctive local cuisine. Anchored by the towns of Laon and Saint-Quentin, this region is full of gentle surprises. The Aisne countryside rolls gently, dotted with small villages, historic abbeys, and memorials to the World Wars. This was WW1’s western front—a theatre of destruction and heroism. Fierce battles were fought around the Chemin des Dames, a ridge road between Laon and Reims. Towns and cities also suffered severe damage and rose again as gems of Art Deco. I
they’ve been used for everything from storage to shelter during wars. Guided tours take you through three levels, including a 12th century prison and defensive casemates built under King Louis-Philippe in the 19th century. Fifty kilometres north-west of Laon lies Saint-Quentin, an Art Deco gem with over 3000 decorated facades. The Basilica, 133 m in length and crowned with an 82 m spire is Picardy’s second-largest religious structure after Amiens Cathedral. Constructed between the 12th and 15th centuries, it was severely damaged during WW1 but has been meticulously restored. Almost 70% of the city’s buildings were also destroyed but were rebuilt after the war in the Art Deco style. While the
Dominating the landscape from its limestone plateau, the departmental capital, Laon, rises like a medieval crown over the surrounding plains. The city’s most iconic feature, the Cathédrale Notre- Dame is a Gothic masterpiece that predates the other Notre-Dame in Paris. Begun in the 12th century, this majestic cathedral is home to curious stone oxen that peer out from the towers—a nod to the animals that hauled the building materials uphill during its construction. Climb to the top of one of its five towers for a high level view of the city and the surrounding area. Go the other way, deep into the ground, and explore Les Souterrains, a network of underground tunnels. Originally 5th century quarries
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