PNG Air Volume 43

Volume 43 2025

M A G A Z I N E PNG Air

NEW MOVIE OSCAR HOPE A film shot at Sogeri about the search for forgotten Indian soldiers is being prepared for Oscars consideration P8

Protecting our walking sharks P22

50th Independence plans heat up P32

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We are now almost mid-way through 2025 and there have been a lot of uphill battles, but that comes with the industry we are in. We are doing our best to manoeuvre the hurdles that hinder our daily operations, while at the same time ensuring we deliver to the best of our ability without compromising safety. At PNG Air, the staff continue to work tirelessly to ensure we get you, our loyal and valued customers, to your intended destinations safely and on time. If you are a regular traveller, we appreciate your choice to travel with PNG Air. For those of you who are travelling with us for the first time, we hope your travel experience with us is nothing short of spectacular. I would also like to acknowledge the support of our travelling mine workers from Newcrest Mining and St Barbara Mining, both in the New Ireland Province, and also K92 Mining in the Ramu Valley. As we progress through 2025, PNG Air will continue striving to do what we do best – and that is connecting our people by transporting them safely from where they are to where they need to be. On behalf of the board, management and staff of PNG Air, we thank you, our passengers, for choosing PNG Air. We look forward to welcoming you on board when you next travel with us as we continue to connect Papua New Guinea.

Design and Layout Anthony Lingnonge pipart@moore.com.pg Correspondence to the airline:

All rights reserved. © Copyright 2025 by Pacific Islands Publishing, a division of Moore Business Systems (PNG) Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. Statements, opinions and viewpoints expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher, editor or the airline. Information contained in this publication is assumed to be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time without notice. Any material accepted is subject to revision as is necessary in the publisher’s sole discretion to meet the requirements of this publication. While all care will be taken, neither the publisher nor the airline will accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. Marketing Manager PO Box 170, Boroko, N.C.D. Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 302 3100 Fax: +675 325 2219 E: pngair@pngair.com.pg Editorial correspondence to: The Editor Pacific Islands Publishing PO Box 7543, Boroko, N.C.D. Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 321 0000 Fax: +675 321 0002 E: m.nugent@moore.com.pg Printer Moore Printing Scratchley Road, Badili N.C.D. Papua New Guinea Ph: +675 321 0000

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Brian Fraser Chief Executive Officer

Cover photo In this scene from the new Papa Buka film, Sogeri elder Sine Boboro as ‘Papa’ finds a bird thought to be extinct, a plot point based on the actual 2022 re-discovery after 140 years of the black-naped pheasant pigeon in Milne Bay. “ Oscar Hope for PNG Movie” Page 8 Photo: NAFA Productions 4

VOLUME 43 2025

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Contents

08 Oscar Hope for PNG Movie

Papa Buka , a PNG Indian co-production about a World War II veteran and a quest to find the graves of lost soldiers, is the country’s first film to be submitted as a Hollywood Oscar contender in the international feature film category. Papua New Guineans served as cast and crew on the powerful drama, which was shot in and around Port Moresby last September.

32 “PNG and Australia United for 50th Birthday Events”

22 “Meet PNG’s Cutest Shark”

film competition, art exhibitions and more as part of the Yumi Stap Wantaim campaign [We Stand Together] to celebrate its close and enduring partnership with PNG.

38 PNG Air – News

PNG Air news bulletin and updates.

41 PNG Air – Inflight Games

Exercise the mind with Christina Lovatt’s crossword and puzzles for your enjoyment.

42 PNG Air – Where We Fly

A map of Papua New Guinea and PNG Air flight routes, plus airline contact information, transfer information, and Inflight Games’ puzzle solutions.

44 PNG Air – Inflight Comfort

22 Meet PNG’s Cutest Shark Not much is known about PNG’s unusual walking sharks – which use their fins to ‘walk’ across the seafloor and wiggle across shallow reef flats – but Brisbane -based marine biologist Jess Blakeway is working with a team of PNG rangers and researchers to change all that. Surveys being carried out in Milne Bay and other areas where the vulnerable little sharks live will be used to help protect them as global warming and pollution of their watery home threatens their survival. 32 PNG and Australia United for 50th Birthday Events As the 50th anniversary of PNG’s Independence approaches on September 16, the Australian Government has announced a series of high profile events, including a music festival,

A few health tips and easy exercises to help make your PNG Air flight as comfortable as possible.

8 “Oscar Hope for PNG Movie”

VOLUME 43 2025

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Oscar Hope for PNG movie about forgotten war heroes

Words: Olive Sukun and Margo Nugent Photos supplied by NAFA Productions

The spectacular scenery of the Sogeri Plateau above Port Moresby takes centre stage in the new PNG-Indian co-production Papa Buka , which follows Sogeri elder and war veteran Sine Boboro (pictured here at a lookout on the Sogeri Road) in the title role of ‘Papa’ as he guides two Indian historians on a quest to find the lost soldiers of World War II 8 VOLUME 43 2025

S ogeri elder Sine Boboro was just a baby when the Japanese war planes were making their bombing raids over Port Moresby in 1942. The terror of that time – as told by his late mother Tabu Ivai who would clasp him to her chest as the bombs fell and the planes crashed around the village – is fresh in the 83-year- old’s mind again after starring as a World War II hero in the soon-to- be released PNG film Papa Buka . “When I was in the act there (on the movie set), I was thinking of my mother,” Sine says, getting tearful with the memory. “I was thinking of her carrying me as a child, holding me. The whole story from WWII my mother told me; she was there, and I was very small. I was

The film’s Indian director of photography Yedhu Radhakrishnan (right) and cameraman Fyodor Sam Brook on location at Bomana War Cemetery “More than 1000 Indian soldiers are believed to have died in PNG both as prisoners of war and while fighting with British troops during the conflict, but the graves of only 337 have been identified”

thinking, ‘that’s your story’.” In the film – PNG’s first to be submitted as a Hollywood Oscar

contender in the international feature film category – Sine plays the title character ‘Papa Buka’, a wise old

former Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel from the Kokoda Track who guides two Indian historians as they search for forgotten

The cast chat around the campfire in this scene shot at a pretend village – Defrika Tabu – built by local Koiari families within Varirata National Park

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fellow lead actor Prakash Bare, their awardwinning director Dr Bijukumar Damodaran, and 10 key camera, sound and other technical crew flew to Port Moresby from India for the shoot in August last year, PNG locals worked in all other parts of the production. This included Sine as the lead character Papa Buka and John Sike who plays the historians’ driver Sike Yuants, with PNG input into the script coming from its co-writer Daniel Jonerdhagtt, a former arts lecturer and now music teacher at NAFA’s music school Music Masters of PNG, along with history teacher Anna

soldiers from their country who fought and died in PNG. More than 1000 Indian soldiers are believed to have died in PNG both as prisoners of war and while fighting with

British troops during the conflict, but the graves of only 337 have been identified. The plot particularly revolves around a personal quest by one of the historians,

Romila – played by prominent Bollywood actress Ritabhari Chakraborty – who is trying to find the war grave of her military medic grandfather. Although Ritabhari,

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In this dream sequence scene at the end of the film, Papua New Guineans wearing different bilas (cultural dress) appear on a ridge

“ Papa Buka is a movie of the common people, simple village people who struggle a lot in life, but with this movie, they did something big... they contributed to something that is for PNG, for a movie that will open up the film industry for PNG”

Dusava and consultant anthropologist Dr Andrew Moutu, the former chief curator of the National Museum & Art Gallery. About 60 young people, mainly POM uni students, were selected as film industry interns, and a further 45 Sogeri villagers worked on building a village

set inside Varirata National Park. The realistic set included seven thatched huts, fireplaces and footpaths, was furnished with a range of props, and populated by extras sourced from the surrounding community, along with dogs, chickens

and a pig that is ceremoniously killed at a cultural welcome feast for the visitors. Although this was Sine’s acting debut, the film’s PNG producer Noelene Wunum said he brought a unique authenticity to the role due to the fact his age and experience as a respected Koiari

community leader perfectly matched that of his character. In fact, Sine’s commitment to his character – and his tireless stamina – is something Noelene makes special mention of while describing the gruelling 18-day shoot that started in downtown POM, then

VOLUME 43 2025

In this scene at the village set, the visiting military historian Romila – played by Indian actress Ritabhari Chakraborty – is brought a cup of tea by local girl Wahu, played by Sandra Dauma (right). At the back with the clapboard is intern Talia Seneve

moved up the Owen Stanley Range to Sogeri for the jungle trek and village scenes. “For this old man, he was really really dedicated, and I think the fun side of it made him to be just like us, the young people – we were energetic and we kept going on even when it’s very

late, like until 12, 1am, and 2 or 3am we are packing up and going back. “Because he’s the main character he has to be there fulltime, so in the morning if we are starting at nine o’clock, he has to be there and shoot, shoot, shoot until the director

is satisfied. Not one day – Lord knows, somehow maybe the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels were with him – but he was not sick for the whole time. Maybe he felt a little bit (unwell), but we didn’t see it. No, he was with us from day one up until the last day.” Despite the tight schedule, Noelene described the shoot as “fun from the beginning till the end”, with “lively and cheerful” Sine at the heart of that. “There were times when you know, the director advises that you do this and he does something else and then everybody laughs! He’s not that kind of a man who sits and you get bored sitting with him – he talks and talks and tells a lot of stories and makes people laugh.” A pivotal part of the film is when the elderly ‘Papa’ dies in his sleep after revealing to Romila that he knew her grandfather, and promising to guide her the next morning to where the man’s cremated remains were buried in the jungle. When Romila

“The realistic set included seven thatched huts, fireplaces and footpaths”

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Relaxing at a Sogeri picnic spot called Wild Track Orchid in March this year, Sine Boboro reflects on his hectic time in August last year shooting the Papa Buka film over 18 intense days. Photo: Adhya Prasad “Somehow maybe the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels were with him – but he was not sick for the whole time”

wakes to find him gone, she must navigate her grief and fulfil Papa’s final wish to return home, refusing to leave the side of the man who is now the closest person she has to a grandfather. Although highly emotional to film these scenes at times, Noelene says there were lighter moments. One was that Sine gave them a bit of a shock while filming the death scene as he made it look so realistic! “They all woke up and he didn’t wake up, it’s going towards the climax of the movie now,” she said. “But then he (Sine) was sleeping and not breathing out. We were thinking, ‘oh please, it’s just a movie don’t make it real!” [Bursts out laughing] Another funny moment was when Sine, acting as the dead man, is lying face up with his eyes closed in the back of a 10-seater vehicle being driven back to the haus krai (mourning house) in his home village. But when they played back the day’s footage, one of Sine’s hands can be clearly seen gripping on to the seat!

“We said, ‘If people see the movie they are going to really laugh! They’ll say, ‘Hey, how come this old man has died and he’s still holding onto the seat?’. So, we have to tell the director, ‘We have a bit of a problem’, and they cut it out.” Sine was born in an old village that has now been abandoned, Emurovo at Sogeri, with his birth taking place traditionally in the bush outside his parents’ house, a custom of that time as giving birth was considered unclean and not to be done indoors. The war had just reached PNG then, and, being so young, Sine only remembers snippets, with one being the soldiers who would pass through the village on their treks, exchanging lollies for cucumbers, papaws and ripe bananas. Sine’s family was one of about 15 Sogeri families involved in making the film, including his nephew Douglas Asi as a Koiari cultural dancer. “We actually worked with all his family out there. We got them all to be a part of the crew,” Noelene said.

“The movie united a lot of us, there were families we hadn’t known before the movie, had no connection with them, and by the end, the Papa Buka Project made everybody become family. All the people at Koiari, they were able to be given that opportunity to showcase their culture, their traditional bilas, even their traditional way of life. A big mumu (earth oven cookout) they did, so we were able to shoot how they conduct their feast and their traditional bilas, and the dances and all those, they captured it in the movie. And they did a very good job in making up that village. When you see it in the movie it really looks like a real village. “When we were trying to scout all the cast that would fit in, we ended up spotting all this in the community, so that brought us closer. They have a little area with the big river on the side (Wild Track Orchid picnic area at Depo Karaka’Dabu village near Sogeri) where they put up barbeques for people to go

VOLUME 43 2025

Indian director Dr Biju (seated on right) on location in the jungle at Varirata National Park during the Papa Buka shoot

and enjoy themselves, and they charge a fee, a very nice place. We would go up and the whole community, they knew us, so we were like friends and family. We still go up there from time to time and check up with them.” Sine’s wife Doriga Mariori also accompanied him through most days of the shoot, and while Sine started being called ‘Papa Buka’ by everyone, his wife was known as Mama Sine. “We would take her to just sit around and when she was tired, we took her back to the Kokoda Trail Motel. During the whole shooting period we got a room for those couples to be housed in there. She was not part of the cast but she was there with the children and grandchildren.” Sine, a father of five and grandfather of eight, loves to tell the story of how he met Doriga as a young man while racing in one of PNG’s iconic

car rallies of the 60s and 70s – the Papuan Safari, run by the Car Club (South Pacific Motor Sports Club). The three-day rally across Central Province’s war- time roads attracted racers from Australia and as far as England to compete against local drivers such as Sine. It was while racing in 1971 that Sine passed through his future wife’s village, and he recalls being so excited when he spotted her that he told his navigator to throw lollies towards her from their car to get her attention. “When I drive past (and saw her) I screamed ‘lole, lole’!” he says, laughing, “and I tell the navigator, ‘Throw the lollies straight to that girl there’. That lole came to me now, that’s how I got her. I married my wife in 1973.” Although Sine was unable to complete Grade 10 (called Form Four at that time) as he was

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VOLUME 43 2025

“With the right knowledge, resources and dedication, we can preserve our natural heritage for future generations”

Celebrating 50 Years of Independence with Papua New Guinea! Since 1975, the Mineral Resources Development Company (MRDC) has proudly stood by our nation, contributing to its growth and prosperity. Over 50 years, we’ve enhanced investments and increased asset value, ensuring sustainability for future generations. We are committed to improving the quality of life for the beneficiaries of the mineral, petroleum and gas resources projects. We pay our respects to the leaders past and present whose vision and selfless leadership have guided and united us as a Nation. Let us work together to realise our shared vision of a peaceful and prosperous Papua New Guinea. www.mrdc.com.pg

caring for his sick mother, he has had a distinguished career, serving the Koiari as a rural councillor, land mediator and deacon among other leadership roles – living and leading a meaningful life. “My aim is to help the people,” he said. Although no stranger to overseas travel – having been to Australia, Malaysia, Singapore, Tanzania and Uganda representing the people of Sogeri – the possibility of Sine travelling to Los Angeles in the United States to attend the film’s Oscars debut in March next year has everyone pretty excited.

“Yes, we are thinking of getting him to go, it will maybe be his last trip (overseas),” Noelene said. “We are excited to see him going, and for it to be his last enjoyment.” But even more of a thrill for Sine has been telling a story of Sogeri that will be remembered for all time. “For a movie going into the Oscars, who else gets in there at the age of 83 years?” she asked. “He was just really excited to be part of the team. We told him, ‘You don’t know when you will leave us but this is your legacy. The next generation, your grandchildren who come after

you, they will not see you but they will see you in this movie. One hundred years from now people will still know there was a Sine Boboro from Sogeri, from Koiari, who lived during that World War II, and the movie will tell people your story, and they will still remember you.’” The movie, the first PNG-Indian co-production, was made with a budget of just K5.5 million partly funded by the PNG-owned The COLE Group, which runs NAFA (Native Arts and Fashion Academy) Productions in Port Moresby. The Indian partners were Akshay Parija, Silicon

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The movie was filmed at various locations in and around Port Moresby including (clockwise from far left) Poreporena Freeway at Burns Peak; Rapala Restaurant, Crown Hotel; Bomana War Cemetery; National Museum & Art Gallery; Heritage Bar, Crown Hotel; library at Pacific Adventist University

Media and Neelam Productions. A small contribution came from PNG’s Department for Community Development and Religion, but at least K3m more is being sought to properly fund an international Oscars promotional campaign. The film’s executive producer Parul Agrawal said it was the Indian director Dr Biju who came up with the idea for a film that would not only highlight the wartime bond between

India and PNG, but also expose the PNG movie industry to the world and establish the country as a film destination, promote cultural heritage and provide learning opportunities for young local talent. Gender empowerment was also a big focus of the production,

decade), there was Michelle Baru, the director’s assistant and herself an aspiring director, and producer Noelene, a teacher in the area of youth development for over 20 years who is part of the management team at NAFA. “It was a big learning experience for not only me but for all those involved,” Noelene said. In fact she was surprised how quickly the Papua New Guineans who worked on the film picked up the skills brought by the industry

with more than half of the interns being female, and women filling key roles.

Along with Parul (who is Indian but has lived in PNG for the past

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program, the Royal PNG Constabulary Media Unit, PNG Office of Censorship and the National Cultural Commission, and hair and makeup artists from Hannah’s Beauty Box. The director of 2024 PNG film Ples Man and its soon to be

PNG and India are, something the visitors also remarked on. “From their feedback and my observations, they really enjoyed their time here. They say PNG and India have a lot of things in common.” This ranged from each one’s deep- rooted colonial past, to both having a rich cultural diversity, strong community and family ties that were crucial to social life, a history of a reliance on farming by a large number of their people, and similar challenges of poverty and access to health care, schools and services. With so much Oscar buzz around Papa Buka , Noelene wanted to make it clear that the primary goal of the movie had always been to promote PNG’s arts and culture across the world. “If you’re a Papua New Guinean, Papa Buka is your movie. We will show it across PNG before we submit it to the Oscars. Mainly it is to represent; to put PNG on the world map – that’s the bigger objective. “ Papa Buka is a movie of the common people, simple village people who struggle a lot in life, but with this movie, they did something big. They don’t really have the money, but they contributed to something that is for PNG, for a movie that will open up the film industry for PNG. “ Papa Buka will tell the world that PNG is not a bad country, it’s a place

One of the movie’s scenes of village life features these little girls baiting homemade fishing rods with worms

professionals from India. “One thing I really admired about our people is, when you see the movie, they are not actors and actresses who have been in some movie before, this is their first movie! But the raw talent that we have, if you see the preview it’s just too good. That shows that Papua New Guineans can learn fast. You just show them once and

they already pick it up, they just do it like they have done it before.” Interns were chosen from the arts schools of the University of Papua New Guinea and Pacific Adventist University, as well as from the National Film Institute in Goroka,

released sequel Ples Man 2 , Ramanathan Undiapah of Jona Film Production, also joined the internship. Each intern received a certificate from NAFA signed by Papa Buka ’s director Dr Biju to recognise the skills obtained during the shoot. Working closely with the Indian film crews also brought home to Noelene how alike

the Department for Community Development and Religion’s women empowerment

PNG producer Noelene Wunum (left) addresses the cast and crew on the first day of shooting at the National Museum on August 15 last year

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This group photo of Papa Buka ’s cast and crew was taken at the end of filming the village scenes

for tourism.” • Papa Buka has been given a PGR (Parental Guidance Required) rating by the PNG Office of Censorship and it is hoped it will have its world premiere at the

three time-Grammy Award winner Ricky Kej, a Los Angeles- based Indian composer, while the Koiari traditonal tracks were composed by Music Masters of PNG.

before being submitted to the Oscars in September. The main language of the 110-minute film is Tok Pisin, with some English and Hindi, and English sub-titles. The musical score is by

Venice International Film Festival in August ahead of its PNG premiere at Sir John Guise Stadium that same month. It will then be rolled out in public viewings in all 22 provinces of PNG

VOLUME 43 2025

Words: Margo Nugent Photos: Supplied by Jess Blakeway MEET PNG’S CUTEST SHARK The three species of walking shark only found in PNG waters don’t get as much attenton as iconic national symbols such as the bird of paradise, but they need it as their habitat is under threat and their future survival far from certain W hen most people talk about sharks, the word

night dive in Milne Bay seven years ago. “It was just after the sun had set and we were coming down where the reef was starting to slope off – and a walking shark swam out from close to the coral. It went underneath me and then settled just kind of behind me a little bit,” Jess recalls.

“I thought, ‘You’re adorable! And I need to know more.’ “That was the first time I saw one and it was really cool. But then, when I went to look for information about them I couldn’t find much at all.” Since then, Brisbane- based PhD student Jess has returned to

that reef in the remote Conflict Islands many times. “We’ve since done more dives on that spot and see them all the time – probably around 15 times, with years in between. It’s not necessarily the same individuals, but that is a guaranteed spot if you want to see them.” VOLUME 43 2025

‘adorable’ is not usually mentioned in the same sentence. But that’s how Australian marine biologist Jess Blakeway describes PNG’s little walking shark, which has captivated her since one followed her on a

Marine biologist Jess Blakeway has chosen to study PNG’s unique walking sharks for her PhD thesis with the University of the Sunshine Coast

“When I went to look for information about them I couldn’t find much at all”

A juvenile Michael’s walking shark – which are mainly found in Milne Bay – is examined by one of the researchers

It’s not hard to see why Jess finds these sharks so cute. They don’t have rows of big scary razor-sharp teeth for starters, so a shark more different to the great white in the movie Jaws would be hard to find. As well as being harmless to humans, they are small – at less

than 80cm and often no more than the size of a ruler; they are covered in pretty brown leopard-like spots; and are peaceful slow- moving homebodies that roam about the seafloor eating worms, snails and crabs rather than being top-of- the-food-chain apex predators. They also

“Look at this little face, only a mother could love it!” Jess said of this Michael’s walking shark

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have a curious ability to ‘walk’ using their fins which enables them to move across very shallow areas such as reef flats at low tide. “If you talk to anyone in Milne Bay they call them the lazy sharks because they don’t move very far,” self- confessed shark nerd Jess says with a laugh. “They move maybe 200 metres to a couple of kilometres in their lifetime, which is not far compared to whale sharks and other

species which will come from Queensland up to PNG and the Solomons and do those kinds of loops quite regularly.” The three species of walking sharks (also called epaulette, carpet and bamboo sharks) that are unique to PNG are the ones that Jess is focusing her PhD research on as these have been the least studied. All are listed as vulnerable to extinction on the International Union for Conservation

PNG’s 3 Walking Sharks Michael’s walking shark , found around the Milne Bay area; Papuan walking shark , found in the Gulf of Papua, from Port Moresby and Central Province down to the Torres Strait; Hooded walking shark , a much darker coloured shark with white spots found in waters from Madang right along the northern coast of PNG through to Jayapura in West Papua.

of Nature’s Red List, with one of the biggest threats being

a warming ocean that is currently creating one of the worst coral

WHAT CAN YOU DO? TAKE A PHOTO The future of PNG’s unique walking sharks is far from secure with all three locally-found species listed as vulnerable to extinction by global

Make sure you note the location, date, depth and time of your encounter, and you can even check if the shark is male or female as only the males have a pair of claspers (external finger- shaped sex organs).

conservation authorities. Efforts are under way to photograph as many individuals as possible to build a photo identification database and map of where populations live that will be used for ongoing monitoring and protection plans. You can help by taking photos of any walking sharks you see and posting them on social media with the hashtags #PNGwalkingshark and #thewalkingsharkproject.

Field assistant and University of PNG student Julie Anne Waranaka catches a Michael’s walking shark during a survey trip to Tufi

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“The common name for all the walking sharks is ‘epaulette’, which refers to the very large, white- margined black spot behind each pectoral fin that resembles a military epaulette”

bleaching events ever recorded in PNG waters, with coral a source of both food and shelter for the walking shark. There’s also pollution from mining and farming runoff harming the shark’s habitat, and some harvesting by local subsistence fishers and the fish aquarium trade. “Fishing is not currently classified as one of the bigger impacts, but that’s because there’s not much data on it,” says Jess. “That’s why, as part of our surveys, we use community engagement to find out if people are fishing them and eating them. “But because they live on the seafloor I wouldn’t think they’d be the nicest tasting.” There are nine known walking shark species in total, all found in the same general area of the island of New Guinea – both the PNG and West Papua (Indonesia) sides – and then down to northern

Australia. It is Australia where most of the research has focused in the past, with the most famous and studied of the species being the ‘epaulette shark’ ( Hemiscyllium ocellatum ), found on Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef. Technically the common name for all the walking sharks is ‘epaulette’, which refers to the very large, white- margined black spot behind each pectoral fin that resembles a military epaulette. Jess is quick to point out that while the PNG walking sharks have been “kind of untouched” in terms of studies by the global scientific community, for local coastal

communities they are very familiar creatures. “They see these sharks regularly but don’t know they’re unique,” she said. “For us it’s exciting and new but the people here live alongside them. “When we’re doing our outreach we tell them this is a special shark and you’re very lucky you get to see this every day, that they’re only found in a certain part of the world. “It’s also a good way to say, ‘Hey kids, tell your parents if they catch one to please release it!’.”

Jess with a Papuan walking shark found on a dive trip with POMSAC to Fisherman’s Island off Port Moresby in March

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During informal interviews that have now taken place in more than 30 PNG villages, little booklets with photos of the different walking shark species are handed out, and locals are asked if they have come across any, and if they catch them do they eat them, release them or use them for anything. “We did see in Oro some of the markets near the (Tufi) resort were selling necklaces of the vertebrae, the backbone of the walking shark, but the lady said it’s not for traditional wear, it’s literally to sell for tourism. “But the people buying it don’t know it’s shark vertebrae, they just think it’s shells, so that’s sad. But the positive thing is that I know those communities eat the shark, so at least they’re using the whole shark.” Often there are local myths, including one from Rossel Island, the most eastern inhabited island in Milne Bay, where pregnant women are warned not to eat

the sharks or they will not have any breast milk to feed their baby! It is thought this story stems from the shark’s tendency to latch on with its mouth. “Most of the time people ask, ‘Do they bite? Are they dangerous?’ And I’m like, ‘They’re only this big, they’re not too bad’. Most people get very impressed when you say you catch sharks with your hands. I mean, I wouldn’t want to go and catch a tiger shark by hand but the little walking sharks are fine. “A few have warned us about grabbing them though. They say, ‘Be careful they don’t spin around and latch on to your shirt!’ We’ve been lucky that hasn’t happened.” The sharks do have little teeth but as Jess explains, it’s a grinding plate. “They kind of have suction and grind, I haven’t felt it but I imagine it’s more a rough sandpaper kind of feeling.” Most of the PNG searches for the sharks to date have focused

on the Milne Bay area, where Michael’s walking shark was first identified as a species in 2010 and named

after the man who first noted its distinctive colour patterns – avid US diver, coral fish researcher, author and former aquarium store owner Scott W. Michael. A team of local Milne Bay rangers has been trained on how to survey the sharks, and since June last year has weighed, measured, photographed and released over 200 individual animals as part of a 12-month project based at Conflict Islands Resort and funded

The research team prepare for another night dive from the Undersea Explorer liveaboard during one of their shark surveying trips in Milne Bay

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H. strahani Hooded Walking Shark

Walking Sharks of PNG

H. michaeli Michael’s Walking Shark

H. hallstromi Papuan Walking Shark

Other species

H. trispeculare

H. halmahera

H.ocellatum

H. freycineti

H. henryi

H. galei

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with a US$10,000 grant from US-based non-profit group Conservation Nation. Jess explains that photos are important to ensure individuals are not counted more than once. “If you think of humans, our thumbprint is what we say identifies us as individuals, although obviously facial ID is pretty good now too. But with these animals, their patterning is quite distinct so we’re taking photos of every individual that we sample and we’re going to be putting that through AI to

pull out individuals,” Jess said. Adding to the survey work around the 21 islands of the Conflicts Group has been a series of exploratory survey trips to other island groups in Milne Bay and Oro funded by another group, the Asia-Pacific branch of Conservation International. These have included a 16- day trip in November 2023 on the Conflicts resort boat MV Undersea Explorer from Alotau out to Rossel Island. Another 10-day survey on the chartered liveaboard dive boat MV Chertan in September last year took in the East Cape area of Alotau, while the third and most recent survey trip in March this year included 12 days in the Tufi area, then a further 10 days aboard Undersea Explorer again to the D’Entrecasteaux Islands. Jess followed this trip up with four days of surveys around the Port Moresby area, basing herself at Loloata Island Resort, where many eco-projects are under way to restore marine life in the Bootless Bay area and where staff will continue to survey the walking sharks. Although there had been flooding rain which affected visibility on the POM dives, she did get to spot eight walking sharks in the bay, as well as six sharks at one site on a dive with local dive group POMSAC. “We’re training up the local guys in how to catch the sharks, and they are gaining confidence, but some get away, they can be very fast, and if they get into areas where there’s dense seagrass are easy to lose. I’d say they’re sneaky if they want to be!” Further funding of A$45,000 has been made available over three years from the Australian- Pacific Science Foundation to progress Jess’ research by helping with the processing of samples and genetic analysis. While the surveys are helping Jess and her team pinpoint

“When the sharks are little (the reproductive organs) look like little Tic Tacs but when they’re mature they look like, I don’t know, appendages, or fingers – and we measure those as part of our work”

Female Females have no external reproductive organs. HOW TO TELL: MALE VERSUS FEMALE MALE VS FEMALE

Male Males have 2 external reproductive organs called claspers. They are used during mating. Mature adults have hard (calcified) claspers. Immature males have softer (un-calcified) claspers. Young males have very small claspers normally less than 2cm.

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Papua New Guinea Immigration & Citizenship Authority, Central Government Office, Ground Floor (Tower A), Melanesian Way Waigani PO Box 1790, Boroko, National Capital District, Papua New Guinea

Jess releases a Michael’s walking shark back to its reef home near Tufi during the most recent survey trip in March. All sharks are caught and released using University of the Sunshine Coast Animal Ethics methods, with the project approved by PNG’s National Institute of Research, and the Conservation and Environment Protection Agency

where walking sharks live, she is keen to travel further afield than Milne Bay, including Lae, Madang and Manus where there have been sightings by local divers. So far the biggest recorded was an 89cm specimen of a Michael’s walking shark found on a dive near East Cape in Milne Bay in September last year, but most are much smaller. “When they hatch from an egg they come out stripy, like black and white stripes,” says Jess. “Then they grow into their colour patterns, like they hatch at 10- 15cm and we think they develop patterns at around 25cm.” Jess said the local researchers being trained in sample collection and field work could get quite competitive. “We do have competitions, the research team – so that’s myself,

PNG rangers from the Conflict Islands Conservation Initiative with Jess after their two weeks of training in how to sample walking sharks

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Ranger Henry with the biggest Michael’s walking shark found in surveys at the Conflict Islands

we measure those as part of our work.” Jess acknowledges that such things must seem quite peculiar to those who don’t live and breathe all things walking shark! “I’m surrounded by marine scientists at work and uni so I’m in a very fish/marine animal world, and you don’t realise how weird some of the conversations are, like measuring shark claspers! – I have friends who are like, why are you measuring that? “Or one of the other samples we take is a cloacal (bottom) swab to look at what they’ve digested recently – so you basically put the equivalent of a covid swab up the shark’s butt, and we think that’s so normal. But someone said it’s like an alien has gone and picked up this shark and probed it and put it back!” Such scientific work however is helping to fill crucial knowledge gaps about these rare little sharks, learning if they produce eggs all year round for example, and what they like to eat. “The information we gather is vital for developing conservation strategies to protect these

unique creatures,” Jess says. “It’s about understanding where they live, how they breed, and how communities can help look after them.” And the fact that the sharks are so cute and adorable doesn’t hurt when it comes to spreading community awareness. “They (walking sharks) are a good way to take the fear out of sharks a little bit. A lot of sharks and rays worldwide are threatened and impacted by fishing pressures and climate change, so it’s a good way to get people a bit more excited about protecting these unique ones, but also to branch out to get excited about the other shark and ray species that need a little bit of love and help too.”

the supervisors, field assistants, dive masters, and a few of the crew. We have a whiteboard and write down everyone’s names and tally who’s caught how many, who caught the biggest, the smallest. It gets everyone very excited to contribute. No prizes, just bragging rights.” A funny moment on the last trip was when one of the Milne Bay divemasters, Junior, set the record for finding the shark with the biggest claspers – which is what the external sex organs of the male sharks are called. “In real life it’s all a size competition, so he was very happy to get the one with the biggest!” Jess said with a laugh. “When the sharks are little (the organs) look like little Tic Tacs but when they’re mature they look like, I don’t know, appendages, or fingers – and

PNG Air flies from Port Moresby to Alotau twice per week For bookings: Call + 675 7411 2644

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Photos supplied by the Australian High Commission PNG united for 50th birthday events PNG AND AUSTRALIA

J ames Marape was only four years old and living far from the capital in a tiny hamlet close to the West Papuan border – but the fever of independence in 1975 still swept up that little boy and future prime minister just like everyone else in the country. “People like me were tucked away in one of the most remotest parts of our country,” the PM recalled in Port Moresby on May 14 as he helped launch a calendar of events being co-ordinated

“Yumi Stap Wantaim [We Stand Together] is the name of a campaign of high-profile music, art, film and cuisine events that the Australian Government will be hosting from June through to September to celebrate its close cultural ties with PNG”

by the Australian Government to mark PNG’s 50th birthday this year. “For me, I was only four years old back then and so I sort of grew up with the country, not knowing that 50 years on I would have this extraordinary privilege to address the nation in the events leading

up to our 50th as our country’s eighth prime minister.” The milestone anniversary – while marking PNG’s separation from Australia as an independent nation – is also a chance to reflect on the deep continued relationship both countries share.

This extends from joint military operations, economic development partnerships, and aid programs for health and education to a shared love of football that will culminate in PNG’s inclusion in Australia’s National Rugby League by 2028. Yumi Stap Wantaim [We Stand Together]

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The prime ministers of PNG and Australia, James Marape and Anthony Albanese bonded in April last year when they walked part of the Kokoda Track together. Marape noted that the same political parties – Pangu and Labor – are in power now as at the time of Independence

is the name of a campaign of high- profile music, art, film and cuisine events that the Australian Government will be hosting from June through to September to celebrate its close cultural ties with PNG. One of the most eagerly anticipated events will be a one-day music extravaganza at PNG’s first Prime Minister Sir Michael Somare enjoys Independence celebrations in Port Moresby on September 16, 1975, with political ally, Australian PM Gough Whitlam

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many Papua New Guineans have been in the band – four out of five currently,” said Airi, who grew up in Darwin and has been with the band since he was 21 but whose mother’s ‘ples’ is Gabagaba (Central). As well as Airi (percussion), there is the band’s longest serving drummer Ben Hakalitz (Bougainville), Stu Kellaway, the band’s music director who was born in Sepik, and the late legendary keys player Buruka Tau (Tubusereia, Central). The Meganesia show, which brings together some of the best indigenous Australian and PNG musicians and dancers, had its debut in Cairns on April 12, before moving to Sydney for the Vivid festival in Sydney on May 24. Rehearsals will start in Port Moresby with six local sing- sing groups in early June. “Meganesia is about celebrating and remembering our ties with First Nation Australians – some of the oldest songlines to human beings extend from my wife’s country (Airi’s wife is jazz singer Deline Briscoe, a Gugu Yalanji/ Daintree Aboriginal woman) all the way up to PNG and West Papua, and they’re older than the 10,000 years ago when that land separated. Some of the songs that are sung speak of the time when it was one landmass, so the culture blends together.” Airi said the cultural and geological connections between Australia and PNG were far more ancient and important than any shared colonial history. “Even though we’re here to “Some of the (Australian First Nations) songlines speak of the time when it was one landmass, so the culture blends together”

The poster for PNG-Australian music and dance show Meganesia. Supplied by Gaba Musik

Port Moresby’s Sir John Guise Stadium on June 28 that will kick off the Prime Minister’s Music Festival continuing through to July 5. The theatrical dance and music show – Meganesia – is being produced by PNG- Australian master drummer/

composer/producer Airileke Ingram, a long-time member of Aboriginal band Yothu Yindi which will be the headline act, and who has brought together a cast of over 100 performers. “One of the really interesting stories about Yothu Yindi is how

PNG-Australian master drummer Airileke – pictured on tour in the US with his daughter Meajoy, 19, last year – is bringing the Meganesia dance and music show to Port Moresby on June 28. Photo: Gaba Musik

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