folks have to go 40 kms out of their way to reach a station where they can catch a straight through train to Budapest. Why they haven’t restored the service now that communism is dead remained a mystery to us—the tracks themselves are still in place! Our final adventure in Kalocsa was a visit to Aunt Julia’s Tavern where we had a delicious supper of chicken paprika and apple strudel for dessert. We all shopped like crazy there because it was wonderful to see the little ladies of all ages working on their embroidery and then viewing the finished products. We bought embroidered napkins, a baby dress, and some embroidered sacks with real Hungarian paprika inside. We also listened to a gypsy band serenading us through dinner. The instruments they used were a violin, a bass and a previously unknown instrument called a columbium, composed of wooden keys, hit by mallets, sounding rather like a marimba.
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