Innersense Color Purity Tech Manual

Raising the Bar of Clean Color

Innersense Color Purity creates a new standard in professional color. The Innersense Standard of Clean means you never have to sacrifice personal well- being or the health of your client’s hair for vibrant, long-lasting color results. Every product is intentionally designed to work seamlessly together and allow for easy customization while elevating the salon color experience.

Welcome to Conscious Color—for greater health and harmony.

FOR HEALTH AND HARMONY

Table of Contents

INNERSENSE Introduction

2 5 6

Letter from the Founders

The Foundation of Color Purity

Color Purity Portfolio

7-8

TRUE COLOR PERMANENT & DEMI HAIR COLOR About True Color, Benefits & Technology

9-14 15-18 19-24

True Color Ingredients True Color Portfolio True Color Intermixability

25 26

True Color Wheel

COLOR PURITY COLLECTION Clean Developer Pure Brilliance Cream & Powder Lighteners

27-28 29-30

Holistic Consultation

HAIR COLOR THEORY Color Theory

33-34

Underlying Pigment

35 36

Understanding the pH Scale

COLOR PURITY SYSTEM Formulation

37-38 39-42 43-44

Application

Decolorizing and Pre-pigmenting

Color Purity is built on four key principles to ensure it meets the highest standards for clean formulation and performance: The Foundation of Color Purity

Our safe and potent formulas push the boundaries of clean beauty, nurturing and reviving hair while prioritizing your well-being. Every product is free of ammonia, PPD, PTD, and resorcinol, meeting high standards of quality, effectiveness and conscientiousness standards, effectiveness, and conscientiousness.

Clean Color Chemistry

As a brand born in a salon, performance will always be at the forefront of everything we do. We believe high-performance products should never compromise the health and well-being of you and your clients, and should always prioritize the long-term health of hair for everyone. We carried these deep values into creating our new hair color system, Innersense Color Purity. Five years in the making, we were committed to ensuring this innovative color collection lives up to our clean standards and professional integrity. Our Innersense Color Purity system includes 40 Oxidative Shades plus white that are fully intermixable and deliver stunning permanent, high lift, and demi-permanent color results while leaving hair healthy and vibrant. Color Purity raises the bar for what it means to have salon-quality, efficacious products that care for both your and your client’s health. We can’t wait for you to experience the difference.

Color Purity lets you color with confidence. Our best- in-class, clean formula delivers complete coverage, glossy shine, true tone, and incredible longevity for vibrant results.

Pure Performance

Unleash your inner artist with 40 intermixable shades plus white, allowing masterful mixing to create customized shades that complement each client’s unique hair type, skin tone, and color goals. Our 5 Volume Clean Developer with Hyaluronic Acid also seamlessly transitions permanent colors to demi-tones. Our sustainable packaging not only utilizes eco- friendly, recycled materials to minimize environmental impact but also incorporates larger sizes to reduce packaging waste. Color Purity is vegan and cruelty- free as part of our commitment to environmental and ethical responsibility. 6

Adaptive Dye Blends

In Health & Harmony,

People, Hair, and Planet

GREG & JOANNE STARKMAN FOUNDERS

Every product within our high-performance color system is intentionally designed to work seamlessly together and allow for easy customization while elevating the color experience and creating greater well-being for both you and your clients. Color Purity Portfolio

THE COLOR PURITY COLLECTION INCLUDES:

40 True Color shades: An intermixable collection for radiant, long-lasting permanent, demi-permanent, and high lift color results.

ɤ A White shade that dilutes color levels and intensity for optimal color customization. ɤ 5 Clean Developers: Available in 5 Volume (1.5%), 10 Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%), 30 Volume (9%), and 40 Volume (12%) oxidizing emulsions. ɤ 2 Pure Brilliance Lighteners: Ammonia-free cream and powder formulas that create brilliant lift.

Eco-friendly color tool collection

Unlock color confidence with the most innovative blend of science and nature. In these pages, you’ll discover the key clean ingredients, benefits, technology, and extensive color range that attain stunning results. You’ll love how the collection works seamlessly together for an elevated, customized color experience—proving that salon-quality, rich, long- lasting color doesn’t have to be at the expense of health or well-being. True Color Hair Color

CLEAN

COLOR

REINVENTED

True Color Benefits

Formulated for all hair types, you’ll love experiencing the difference of True Color:

ɤ Radiant and vibrant colors with true tone results

ɤ 100% coverage of gray hair without special formulations

Long-lasting color with high shine

ɤ Smooth, creamy consistency for full saturation and easy application

ɤ Seamlessly transitions from permanent to demi-permanent (when mixed with 5 Volume (1.5%) Clean Developer) ɤ An ammonia-free color service to protect even the most sensitive scalps against irritation ɤ Fragrance-free formulation to remove one of the key drivers of sensitivities from hair color The Innersense Color Purity Collection has been thoroughly tested to ensure outstanding performance on all hair types and textures. Every formula meets the Innersense Standard of Clean Beauty—for the health and harmony of both people and hair.

THE COLOR PURITY COLLECTION PROMISES:

ɤ Enhanced Hair Health: Formulated per EU high cosmetic standards, Color Purity Hair Color delivers brilliant color results while protecting the hair’s structural integrity and reducing the risk of damage. Our gentler, ammonia-free formula paired with 2MD technology is less irritating than traditional alternatives and creates a fumeless, more pleasant salon experience. ɤ Reduced Sensitivities: Most hair color lines utilize primary dyes PPD and PTD, known allergens that can cause reactions in some individuals. 2MD has a unique molecular structure that allows for a lower sensitizing potential, meaning individuals with sensitive skin and allergies to PPD and PTD may have a lower chance of reaction.* ɤ Consistent Color Results: Color Purity takes the guessing game out of color results and unexpected variations. Innersense adaptive dye blend offers consistent and predictable color results. Colorists can rest easy knowing they’ll achieve the desired hair color with greater accuracy thanks to true-to-tone shades. ɤ Long-Lasting Vibrancy: Our True Color Base, infused with antioxidant-rich plant actives, is formulated to maximize shine while delivering vivid and long-lasting color without significant fading.

True Color Technology

OUR ADAPTIVE DYE BLEND Our full spectrum of 40 intermixable shades plus white allows colorists to create customized, vibrant results that complement each client’s unique hair type, skin tone, and color goals. When mixed with the 5 Volume (1.5%) Clean Developer, you can seamlessly transition from permanent to demi-permanent for maximum freedom and color creativity. BREAKTHROUGH 2MD TECHNOLOGY Our Adaptive Dye Blend utilizes cutting-edge 2MD (2-methoxymethyl phenylenediamine) dye—a safer, more gentle alternative to traditional dyes. This revolutionary hair dye molecule minimizes sensitivities while delivering a consistent, true tone. As an alternative to conventional dyes, such as PPD (para- phenylenediamine) or PTD (toluene 2,5-diamine sulfate), 2MD, plus our special coupler blend, helps preserve hair health and limit sensitizing potential while delivering vibrant, lasting color. COLOR BASE: OUR CLEAN FOUNDATION The first truly clean base in the industry, the Color Purity Color Base is formulated with 100% natural, ethoxylate-free ingredients and contains a proprietary blend of fatty alcohols. It provides bold and enduring color while nourishing and nurturing each strand for soft, moisturized, and high-shine results.

* A patch test should always be conducted 48 hours prior to color service.

True Color Ingredients

COMMITTED TO CLEAN: TRUE COLOR INGREDIENTS We believe in fewer, better ingredients with a focus on both people and the planet. At Innersense, this means a commitment to making safe, professional-grade products that deliver high-performance, long-term results. Our Color Purity collection includes rich, natural ingredients mindfully selected for their hair-nourishing properties and their benefit to the long-term health of hair. ɤ Shea Butter: This emollient is rich in vitamins A, E, and F, which help improve hair strength and bounce while increasing moisture retention. ɤ Mosqueta Rose Oil: Also known as rosehip oil, this deeply hydrating—yet weightless—oil improves hair’s hydration and shine. ɤ Moringa Oil: Packed with omega-3 fatty acids, this oil soothes scalps, adds moisture, and can help strengthen hair. ɤ Goji Berry: Infused with amino acids, this natural anti-inflammatory ingredient helps promote follicle health. ɤ Lilac Extract: This multitasking oil works on the scalp and hair, removing dullness-causing build up and smoothing the cuticle to help prevent damage. ɤ Tamanu Oil: This quick-absorbing oil locks in moisture, can improve elasticity, and enhance the vibrancy of color.

PURE PERFORMANCE, PURE INGREDIENTS Innersense redefines hair color, seamlessly integrating superior, non-toxic alternatives into our Color Purity collection for vibrant, health-conscious color. By replacing harsh chemicals with gentle, effective alternatives, we ensure every product from our Color Purity collection not only meets but exceeds the standards for both performance and health, delivering vibrant color that’s kind to your hair and skin.

ɤ Gentle Surfactant: Unlike SLS, SLES, and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, our surfactant prepares the hair for color without stripping the scalp’s natural oils or sensitizing the scalp. ɤ Chelating Agent: We use non-toxic chelating agents to buff metals and minerals to prevent adverse reactions to color results.

ɤ Preservative-free: Our innovative technology does not require preservatives, eliminating unnecessary ingredients that can cause irritation and inflammation without compromising shelf life. ɤ Ammonia-free Alkalizer: Color Purity uses the gentle power of ethanolamine to deliver a seamless, fragrance-free coloring experience in the salon.

Everything You Want, Nothing You Don’t

INNERSENSE COLOR PURITY

TRADITIONAL COLOR

PPD (PARA- PHENYLENEDIAMINE) OR PTD (TOLUENE 2,5-DIAMINE SULFATE)

2MD: 2-METHOXYMETHYL PHENYLENEDIAMINE) DYE

TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE STEARIC ACID (FATTY ALCOHOLS AND CONDITIONING ACIDS)

EDTA

SILICONE, MINERAL OIL OR PARAFFIN

SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE

SLS, SLES, AND COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE

MEA: THE AMMONIA-FREE EXPERIENCE For color to permeate the hair, an alkaline agent is necessary. Both Ammonia and Ammonia- free dyes raise the naturally acidic pH of hair, swelling the strand and opening up the hair cuticle layer, which is necessary for the dye to penetrate. Innersense Color Purity utilizes the gentle power of MEA (Ethanolamine or Monoethanolamine) as our True Color alkalizer instead of traditional Ammonia. While achieving beautiful color results with our Ammonia-free formulation, you and your clients get the added benefits of:

FREE OF FUMES & FRAGRANCE

FRAGRANCE

NATURAL, ZERO-ETHOXLATED THICKENERS

ETHOXLATED EMULSIFIERS AND THICKENERS

FREE OF PEG, PPG AND PROPYLENE GLYCOL

PEG, PPG OR PROPYLENE GLYCOL

FREE OF PARABENS

PARABENS

ɤ A Fume-Free Environment: Ethanolamine has little to zero odor, creating a comfortable, fume-free environment for clients and fostering a better working environment for salon professionals.

ɤ Irritation Reduction: Differentiated from gas-based Ammonia, liquid- based Ethanolamine tends to be less irritating to the senses.

FREE OF PHTHALATES

PHTHALATES

Beyond this, we are committed to doing our part for the planet, prioritizing ingredients that are ethically sourced, cruelty-free, sustainable, and designed in eco-friendly packaging whenever possible.

True Color Portfolio

NATURAL

GOLD

COPPER

RED

ASH

VIOLET

GG MIXER

CC MIXER

RR MIXER

AA MIXER

VV MIXER

12N

12A

12V

10N

10A

10V

4M**

**Mahogany features a combination of intense Brown & Red/Violet tones for a rich chocolate brown result.

Level

Level is described as the lightness or darkness of the hair. The International Level system is a standardized scale that categorizes the depth of hair color, Level 1 being the darkest (Black) and Level 10 being the lightest (Extra Light Blonde). In our portfolio, Level 12 represents our High Lift Collection.

INTERNATIONAL LEVEL SYSTEM

EXTRA LIGHT BLONDE

VERY LIGHT BLONDE

LIGHT BLONDE

Our diverse range of 40 fully intermixable shades plus white takes color versatility to the next level. Meticulously crafted under seven tonal series, you get infinite, vibrant color combinations that align with your client’s unique features and style preferences. UNDERSTANDING THE LABEL The number on the tab of the box is the level, and the following letter is the tone. True Color Shade Range

BLONDE

DARK BLONDE

LEVEL

TONE

LIGHT BROWN

BROWN

DARK BROWN

DARKEST BROWN

BLACK

Tonal Series Tone describes the shade or hue of color in each tube. Letters are used to easily define Color Purity tones. Each Tonal series is formulated with an individual Color Purity Color Base. This promises a true to tone result every time.

NATURAL

COPPER

ASH

RED

VIOLET

MAHOGANY

GOLD

WHITE

NATURAL TRUE NEUTRAL Made without too much warmth or coolness, the Natural series delivers the perfect natural shade across all levels. When mixed with other shades, they can soften or subdue the tone:

GOLD WARM This natural warm Gold series delivers brilliant golden hues without any brassiness: ɤ 5G, 6G, Yellow/Green Base ɤ 7G, 8G, 9G Yellow Base ɤ Pure Tone GG Intense Yellow/Gold Base WARM Our vibrant Copper series offer a radiant blend of Red and Gold: ɤ 6C, 7C, 8C Orange Base ɤ Pure Tone CC Intense Orange Base COPPER RED WARM These super intense Red series offer vibrant, brilliant true red shades: ɤ 5R, 6R, 7R Red Base ɤ Pure Tone RR Intense Red Base

PURE TONE INTENSIFIERS True Color Pure Tone Intensifiers are concentrated tones and formulated with 100% oxidative pigments. Ideal for creating vibrant fashion shades or unique blended tones to customize color, the Pure Tone Intensifiers can be used on their own, or intermixed with any True Color Shade, including White.

2N, 3N, 4N, 5N, Cool Brown Base 6N, 7N, 8N, Cool Blonde Base 9N, 10N, Light Cool Blonde Base High Lift 12N, Pale Cool Blonde Base

ɤ ɤ ɤ ɤ

ASH COOL Cooler than the Natural series, the Ash series is created with the perfect balance of gray/blue tone. Designed to deliver the coolest, clean hues, the ash series is available in the following levels:

1A, 5A Green Base

ɤ ɤ ɤ ɤ

6A, 7A Blue/Green Base

8A, 9A, 10A and High Lift 12A Blue Base

Pure Tone AA Intense Blue Base

MAHOGANY COOL BROWN RED The Mahogany series features a combination of intense Brown and Red/Violet tones for a rich, chocolate-brown result:

VIOLET COOL The Violet series is a blend of violet/gray tone to create a soft color result. Perfect for delivering the best iridescent blondes. The violet series is available in the following levels:

4M, Brown Violet/Red Base

5V Strong Violet Base 8V, 9V, 10V Violet Base

ɤ ɤ ɤ ɤ

WHITE PLUS (CLEAR WHITE) Add White to any shade to dilute the level and intensity for a completely customized color.

High Lift 12V Pale Violet Base Pure Tone VV Intense Violet Base

The Color Purity Color Wheel

10A 12A

True Color Intermixability

12V

10V

10N

12N

Create demi-permanent, permanent and high lift color results from a single tube:

4N 5N

High Lift or Maximum Tone Deposit

Demi Permanent – Refresh or Enhance

Demi Permanent – Tone Pre- Lightened Hair

Permanent Color

Gray Coverage

SERVICE OPPORTUNITY

1:1

1:2

MIXING RATIO

10, 20, 30 or 40 vol

20 or 30 vol

40 vol

10 vol

5 vol

DEVELOPER

35 minutes

35 - 45 minutes

50 minutes

20 - 25 minutes

5 - 20 minutes

TIMING

10 vol breaking the base 20 vol up to 2 levels of lift 30 vol 2-3 levels of lift 40 vol 3-4 levels of lift

Gray Coverage

Up to 4 levels of lift

LEVELS OF LIFT

Tone-on-Tone

Control Tone

Clean Developer OUR BREAKTHROUGH CLEAN DEVELOPER Clean Developer is the first developer in the world to be formulated with Clean Color Chemistry, utilizing Innersense oxidizing emulsions—an integral part of our intermixable color system. When mixed with our True Color collection, Clean Developer creates a creamy consistency that ensures a smooth application of fully saturated, brilliant color.

CLEAN EVOLUTION STARTS HERE

CLEAN DEVELOPER IS FREE FROM:

Sulfates (SLS, SLES)

Toxic Preservatives

Animal-derived Ingredients

Phthalates

Silicones

Fragrance

CLEAN DEVELOPER IS AVAILABLE IN 5 POWER LEVELS:

VOLUME

IDEAL FOR

LEVELS OF LIFT

Transforms permanent color to brilliant demi-permanent

Deposit only, no lift

5 VOLUME (1.5%)

Perfect for breaking the base

Up to 1 level of lifting power

10 VOLUME (3%)

The workhorse for most color services

Up to 2 levels of lifting power

20 VOLUME (6%)

Perfect for additional levels of lift

Up to 3 levels of lifting power

30 VOLUME (9%)

Maximum lift for effortless blonding

Up to 4 levels of lifting power

40 VOLUME (12%)

Innersense Pure Brilliance PURE BRILLIANCE LIGHTENERS Innersense Pure Brilliance Lighteners embody our commitment to clean beauty, crafting radiant blondes with unparalleled purity and precision. Available in cream and powder formulations, they achieve the perfect lift and tone, catering to all hair types and application techniques. Created without ammonia or EDTA, they provide a safe and pleasant experience for colorists and clients. LIGHTENING POWDER This versatile, finely milled formula achieves the creamiest consistency, delivering beautiful lightening results on all hair types and textures. This formula can lift to nine levels and is suitable for both on- and off-scalp applications. LIGHTENING CREAM This lightening cream is formulated with Kaolin Clay and specifically designed for curly textures, as well as balayage and ombré techniques. It can lift up to six levels and incorporates a blue tone for clearer visibility while lifting.

WHERE LIFT MEETS CLEAN

PURE BRILLIANCE SERVICE OPPORTUNITIES

On Scalp – Global application

Off Scalp – Global application

Off Scalp – Painting or Curly Hair

Off Scalp – Foil

SERVICE OPPORTUNITY

Powder or Cream

PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION

Powder

Cream

1:1 or 1:1.5

1:1

MIXING RATIO

10 or 20 volume

10, 20, 30 or 40 volume

DEVELOPER

Up to 60 minutes

TIMING

Holistic Consultation The essence of True Color artistry is grounded in a deep understanding of color theory, the lightening process, underlying pigment, clients’ hair history and the desired result. The art of personalized color formulation lies in our Holistic Consultation. A Holistic Consultation considers the following aspects of the client:

SCALP Assessing the scalp is important because as hair stylists, we have an opportunity to educate our clients on how a healthy scalp supports follicle health, which leads to healthy hair. A sensitive scalp can be a key symptom of color allergens and allergic reaction. While a patch test is key to ruling out sensitivities, Innersense’s innovative 2MD Dye Molecule helps to minimize color reactions. HAIR Observing the fabric of the hair is important. Creating a plan to customize a color starts with realistic expectations and knowing what you have to work with. Hair diameter and condition will directly affect the formulation of color. COLOR HISTORY Understanding the hair’s color history allows you to make educated recommendations, formulate properly and make suggestions for care end results.

LIFESTYLE Understanding the day-to-day activities and lifestyle of your client as well as their maintenance expectation allows you to support them with professional expertise and hair color recommendations. ENVIRONMENT Taking time to understand the climate and environmental factors that affect your client’s hair can help you customize the ideal formula. EMOTION We cannot underestimate the power of our thoughts, emotions, and past hair trauma on the state of hair today. ALLERGY TEST A patch test should always be conducted before coloring hair.

Color Theory COLOR THEORY 101

TERTIARY COLORS Tertiary colors are formed by mixing a Primary Color with a neighboring Secondary Color. Tertiary colors include Red-Orange, Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Violet, and Red-Violet.

The foundation for creating precise, customized shades starts with color theory. It’s essential for creating personalized shades that factor in the client’s natural hair color, skin tone, lifestyle and desired look.

THE COLOR WHEEL The Laws of Color state that every color imaginable can be formed by mixing the three primary colors of Yellow, Red, and Blue. Understanding where each color in the Innersense True Color collection falls on the color wheel is critical to formulation and creative success (see Page 26).

PRIMARY COLORS Hair color is an art guided by the principles of color theory and the dynamic interplay of the color wheel. The foundation of color begins with the three primary colors: Yellow, Red, and Blue. Each primary color is considered pure and cannot be created by mixing other colors. Different combinations produce an array of tones. When blended in equal proportions, the trio of primary colors creates Brown.

YELLOW

RED

BLUE

BROWN

SECONDARY COLORS Secondary colors are formed by combining two primary colors in equal proportions. The three secondary colors are Orange (Yellow + Red), Violet (Blue + Red), and Green (Blue + Yellow).

COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Colors that are found opposite each other on the color wheel are called complementary colors. When these colors are mixed, they neutralize. The tone of the neutral created will vary based on the complementary colors that are combined.

YELLOW

RED

BLUE

YELLOW

BLUE

ORANGE

VIOLET

GREEN

BLUE

ORANGE

RED

GREEN

YELLOW

VIOLET

Secondary

Complementary

Underlying Pigment Underlying Pigment, also known as Remaining Pigment Contribution (RPC), is crucial during color formulation. It refers to the remaining pigment exposed at the level that you have lifted the hair to during the lightening process. The chart below shows how the color wheel helps us understand the Underlying Pigment and formulate the level of lift and corrective neutralizing tone. This will give you the best prediction of how a chosen color will interact with the existing pigments.

The pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution and plays a significant role in the hair coloring process. It ranges from 0 to 14, with solutions below 7 being acidic and those above a pH of 7 being alkaline (basic). A pH of 7 is considered neutral. The pH of hair and skin is slightly acidic, ranging from 4.5 to 5.5. Hair Color products contain alkaline solutions which swell the hair strand, allowing the cuticle to open and color molecules to penetrate. Innersense Color Purity Clean Developers are low in pH Understanding the potential hydration (PH) scale

NATURAL HAIR’S UNDERLYING PIGMENT

DEPOSITED TONE

FINAL COLOR RESULT

(2.25 to 2.75) to help counteract the high alkalinity in the hair color.

LEVEL NUMBER

UNDERLYING PIGMENT

ACID

Follow up every Color Purity service with an Innersense Hairbath and Conditioning Treatment to restore the hair’s natural pH. For best results, follow with Color Awakening Hairbath and Color Radiance Conditioner. This helps secure the color molecules and enhance color retention.

Very Pale Yellow

Pale Yellow

Yellow

SKIN & HAIR 4.5-5.5

Yellow/Orange

Orange

Orange/Red

Red

Dark Red

Brown

ALKALINE

Black

Your Guide to True Color Formulation

Formulation Guidelines STEP 1: Determine the client’s natural level and tone using our Natural Level Finder in your swatch book. STEP 2: Choose the desired level and tone— keeping the client’s texture, porosity, density, treatment and color history in mind.

MAKING TONAL ADJUSTMENTS

CREATING HIGHLIGHTS AND LOWLIGHTS To add dimension, the color wheel can guide you in choosing shades that complement your base color. For instance, add cool-toned highlights to warm brown hair for contrast and depth. FORMULATING PURE TONE INTENSIFIERS Because Pure Tone Intensifiers are 100% oxidative pigments, they can be formulated as either demi- permanent or permanent using the Color Purity True Color Formulation Guide on page 38. When adding Pure Tone Intensifiers to a formula, use a scale to determine the amount of additional developer needed. FORMULATING HIGH LIFT When choosing a volume of developer for high lift shades, choose based on the hairs condition. Highly compromised hair may benefit from a lower level of developer and still achieve the desired levels of lift. FORMULATING GRAY COVERAGE Our Innersense color base plus adaptive dye blends ensures 100% gray coverage from each shade. No need for adding naturals or special formulations; just choose your shade using our Innersense formulation guidelines. For resistant grays see our gray coverage tips on page 40.

Because of the way that light reflects on darker hair and lighter hair, colors that are the same level may appear lighter or darker based off the color tones that they are reflecting. For example: Warm tones reflect light to appear lighter in shade; cool colors absorb light and can appear a darker shade. ENHANCING NATURAL COLOR Choosing adjacent colors on the color wheel can help you pick shades that harmonize with their existing color to enhance their look. For instance, naturally warm hair color can be enhanced by adding gold and copper tones. REFINING (OR NEUTRALIZING) COLOR Color theory can help identify and neutralize unwanted undertones by selecting complementary tones (or colors opposite each other on the color wheel). For example, use Violet to neutralize unwanted Yellow tones in light- colored hair, use a Blue tone to neutralize hair that appears too Orange, or use a Red tone to take away a Green cast.

STEP 3: Determine the Underlying Pigment found at the desired level.

STEP 4: Choose the appropriate True Color shade to enhance, refine, or adjust the Underlying Pigment. Using the chart below, choose the Clean Developer volume and mixing ratio needed to achieve the desired outcome and necessary levels of lift. For application guidelines, see pages 39-40.

PRO TIP: For optimum results, awaken True Color by lightly whisking in the bowl until smooth, then add Clean Developer and combine.

MIXING RATIO

CLEAN DEVELOPER

COLOR ACTION

PROCESSING TIME

COLOR APPLICATION

35 Minutes 45 Minutes Resistant Hair

10, 20, 30, 40 Volume

Darker, Lighter, Add/Change Tone, Resistant Hair

1 to 1

Dry, Unwashed Hair

PERMANENT

5, 10 Volume

Deposit Only, Darker/ Change Tone

20 – 25 Minutes

DEMI PERMANENT

1 to 2

Dry, Unwashed Hair

5 Volume

Deposit Only, Pastel Toning

5 – 20 Minutes

1 to 2

Towel Dried Hair

TONING

30, 40 Volume

Up to 4+Levels of Lift

45 Minutes

1 to 2

Dry, Unwashed Hair

HIGH LIFT

RETOUCH APPLICATION ɤ Application: Mix the desired shade of Innersense True Color and apply to dry hair. Divide the hair into four sections. Apply to the root area, avoiding any overlap onto previously colored hair, taking 1/4-inch (1cm) sections to ensure even application. ɤ Processing time: Process for the recommended time, between 35-55 minutes. A few minutes before rinsing, add water to the hair at the basin and gently massage to emulsify the color from the scalp to prevent staining REFRESHING FADE ɤ Application: Choose the desired formulation and application depending on the level of fade: > > Slight Fading: At the basin, add a small amount of water and emulsify the color already on the root area through the mid-shaft and ends. Process for up to an additional 10 minutes > > Moderate Fading: After the root formula has processed for half the desired time, weigh the remaining color in the bowl and add an equal amount of 5 Volume (1.5%) Innersense Clean Developer. Apply to the mid-shaft and ends and process for the remaining time. > > Extreme Fading: Mix a new formula 1:2 with 5 volume Innersense Clean Developer and apply to lengths and ends. Process for 20 minutes. RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE TIPS Covering gray is easy with Innersense True Color. Our Innersense Clean Color Base plus adaptive dye blends ensures 100% gray coverage from each shade. Resistant gray or non-pigmented hair may require application or formulation techniques to ensure the desired level of coverage. ɤ During the Holistic Consultation, consider the desired end result. Gray Blending, Soft Coverage, or Complete Coverage can all be achieved by varying the formula and application. ɤ Assess the level of the natural pigmented hair and the percentage of non-pigmented or gray hair. The amount may vary in different areas of the head, 25%, 50%, 100%. ɤ When the percentage of gray or non-pigmented hair varies drastically from the front of the head to the back, consider: > app lying your color formula to the areas with more gray first to allow for a longer processing time. > exten d the processing time up to 45 minutes. > choo se a formula ½-1 level lighter in the areas with less gray to balance the color overall.

True Color Application

Proper application is crucial to achieving successful color results. While there are many tools and techniques used in our industry to apply color, the below application guidelines have been optimized for True Color to ensure even coverage, achieve the desired color result, and maintain the health of your client’s hair. All applications should be divided into four sections with ¼ inch (1cm) partings for correct coverage. Heat is not recommended. After each application, thoroughly rinse, followed by Innersense Color Awakening Hairbath, Color Radiance Conditioner, or Hydrating Hair Mask.

PRE-TREATMENT ɤ For excessive buildup, pretreat the hair with Detox Hair Mask. Rinse and dry the hair prior to color application

VIRGIN HAIR: GOING DARKER AND GRAY COVERAGE ɤ Application for permanent, demi-permanent, and tone-on-tone colors: Mix the desired shade of Innersense True Color and apply it to dry hair. Divide the hair into four sections. Apply to the root area through the mid-shaft and ends, taking 1/4-inch (1cm) sections to ensure even application. ɤ Processing time: Process for the recommended time, between 35-45 minutes. A few minutes before rinsing, add water to the hair at the basin and gently massage to emulsify the color from the scalp to prevent staining. VIRGIN HAIR: GOING LIGHTER ɤ Application for permanent, high lift, or lightening: Mix the desired shade of Innersense True Color or Color Purity Lightener and apply to dry hair. Taking 1/4-inch (1cm) sections to ensure even application, apply color ½ inch from the root area, through the mid-shaft and ends. Once the mid-

shaft and ends of the hair are applied, remix and apply to the root area. > > Note: If ends are porous or sensitive, apply after the root application.

ɤ Processing time: Process mid-shaft to ends approximately 20 minutes (25 minutes for high lift colors) until definite color change can be seen. Apply root formula and continue processing for the full recommended timing (35 minutes permanent color and 50 minutes high lift colors). > > Note: A few minutes before rinsing, add water to the hair at the basin and gently massage to emulsify the color from the scalp to prevent staining.

GRAY COVERAGE

MIXING RATIO

PROCESSING TIME

RESULTS

DEVELOPER

Gray is visible but blended, ideal for first time or commitment shy color clients Gray is colored but still visible, Ideal for introducing color or clients looking for a softer regrowth

GRAY BLENDING

5 vol (1.5%)

1:2

20 minutes

SOFT COVERAGE

10 vol (3%)

1:2

25 minutes

Ideal for anyone who wants 100% Gray Coverage with no visible gray.

COMPLETE COVERAGE

20 vol (6%)

1:1

35-45 minutes

Pure Brilliance Application Guide

VIRGIN HAIR AND RETOUCHING ɤ Application: Refer to application guidelines for Virgin Hair: Going Lighter on page 39. Mix the desired formula of Pure Brilliance Lightener and apply to dry hair. Taking 1/4-inch (1cm) sections to ensure even application, apply color ½ inch from the root area, through the mid-shaft and ends. Once the mid-shaft and ends of the hair are half to one level away from your intended level, remix and apply to the root area. ɤ Processing time: Process until you attain the desired undertone.

HIGHLIGHTS AND BALAYAGE ɤ Application: Use a brush to apply product, whether in foil, paper strips, or by painting it directly onto the hair. ɤ Processing time: Maximum processing time is 50 minutes or until you attain the desired undertone. TONING ɤ Application: Blow-dry or towel-dry hair before applying the Innersense Color Purity True Color toner formulation. Refer to the formulation guidelines for toning on page 38. ɤ Processing time: Process from 5 to 20 minutes until the desired result is reached.

Pure Brilliance is suitable for lifting darker natural or artificial hair colors when you aim to lift more than five levels. Heat is not recommended. After each application, thoroughly rinse, followed by Innersense Color Awakening Hairbath, Color Radiance Conditioner, or Hydrating Hair Mask. STAGES OF LIFTING When lifting natural hair color, we expose underlying pigment. As we lift we reveal Red, Orange, and Yellow undertones. To reach blonde, Black and Red need to be completely diffused. Refer to the Lifting Chart below with the corresponding neutralizing shades for guidance.

PURE BRILLIANCE SERVICE OPPORTUNITIES

LEVEL DESCRIPTION

LEVEL NUMBER

REMAINING PIGMENT RPC (LIFTING)

CORRECTIVE COLOR NEUTRALIZE

Extra Light Blonde

Very Pale Yellow

Pale Violet

On Scalp – Global application

Off Scalp – Global application

Off Scalp – Foil

Off Scalp – Painting or Curly Hair

SERVICE OPPORTUNITY

Very Light Blonde

Pale Yellow

Pale Violet

PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION

Powder or Cream

Powder

Cream

Light Blonde

Yellow

Violet

Blonde

Yellow/Orange

Violet/Blue

1:1 – Powder 1:1.5 – Cream

1:1 or 1:1.5

1:1

MIXING RATIO

Dark Blonde

Orange

Blue

10 or 20 volume

10, 20, 30 or 40 volume

DEVELOPER

Light Brown

Orange/Red

Green/Blue

Up to 60 minutes

Brown

Red

Green

TIMING

Dark Red

Green

Dark Brown

Darkest Brown

Brown

Black

COLOR CORRECTION

FILLING OR pre-pigmenting

Generally, clients do not have Virgin Hair. In some cases, it’s necessary to correct or decolorize existing color to get to a clean canvas before proceeding with the desired color formula. Below are some basic corrective recommendations:

When coloring the hair 3 or more levels darker, replacing the missing pigment is required to achieve a true to tone end result. In such cases, filling or pre-pigmenting the hair with color is necessary before applying the desired level and shade. The following guide outlines our formulation recommendations for filling hair. STEP 1: Fill the hair that is missing pigment with the appropriate filler formula below. Process for 20 minutes. Thoroughly rinse and cleanse with Pure Harmony Hairbath. For best results, dry the hair. STEP 2: Apply the desired True Color formula with 10 Volume (3%) Clean Developer and process for 20-35 minutes.

DECOLORIZING OR TONAL CLEANSE: When removing unwanted tones or previously color-treated hair, it’s not always necessary to lighten the entire head. Apply the desired formula to only the areas requiring decolorization.

MIXING RATIO

PROCESSING TIME

DECOLORIZNG

RESULTS

LIGHTENER DEVELOPER

Warm water and Pure Harmony Hairbath

DESIRED LEVEL

FILLER (PRE-PIGMENTING) FORMULA

Eliminate unwanted tones while minimally lifting

TONAL CLEANSE

Powder

1:1:1

Visual*

Desired Level 9

Not Needed

Eliminate unwanted tones while lifting up to 1 level

UP TO 1 LEVEL OF LIFT

Powder

5 vol (1.5%)

1:1

Visual*

Desired Level 8

1/4 8C + 3/4 9G + 5 Volume (1.5%)

Desired Level 7

1/2 8C + 1/2 8G + 5 Volume (1.5%)

Desired Level 6

1/2 7C + 1/2 7G + 5 Volume (1.5%)

*PRO TIP: Apply and process Decolorizing Cleanses in sections and watch closely until the desired result has been reached.

Desired Level 5, 4, 3, 2, 1

1/2 6C + 1/2 6G + 5 Volume (1.5%)

STRAND TEST When executing a corrective color service, it is always more predictable to do a strand test to assess how the hair will react before proceeding with the rest of the hair. Take a small, discreet strand from the nape of the neck and use foil to isolate the test strand. Pre-lighten to observe the lift or deposit of the chosen shade to evaluate the results. Based on the test, the formula can be adapted to address the client’s specific hair color situation.

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