Your Guide to True Color Formulation
Formulation Guidelines STEP 1: Determine the client’s natural level and tone using our Natural Level Finder in your swatch book. STEP 2: Choose the desired level and tone— keeping the client’s texture, porosity, density, treatment and color history in mind.
MAKING TONAL ADJUSTMENTS
CREATING HIGHLIGHTS AND LOWLIGHTS To add dimension, the color wheel can guide you in choosing shades that complement your base color. For instance, add cool-toned highlights to warm brown hair for contrast and depth. FORMULATING PURE TONE INTENSIFIERS Because Pure Tone Intensifiers are 100% oxidative pigments, they can be formulated as either demi- permanent or permanent using the Color Purity True Color Formulation Guide on page 38. When adding Pure Tone Intensifiers to a formula, use a scale to determine the amount of additional developer needed. FORMULATING HIGH LIFT When choosing a volume of developer for high lift shades, choose based on the hairs condition. Highly compromised hair may benefit from a lower level of developer and still achieve the desired levels of lift. FORMULATING GRAY COVERAGE Our Innersense color base plus adaptive dye blends ensures 100% gray coverage from each shade. No need for adding naturals or special formulations; just choose your shade using our Innersense formulation guidelines. For resistant grays see our gray coverage tips on page 40.
Because of the way that light reflects on darker hair and lighter hair, colors that are the same level may appear lighter or darker based off the color tones that they are reflecting. For example: Warm tones reflect light to appear lighter in shade; cool colors absorb light and can appear a darker shade. ENHANCING NATURAL COLOR Choosing adjacent colors on the color wheel can help you pick shades that harmonize with their existing color to enhance their look. For instance, naturally warm hair color can be enhanced by adding gold and copper tones. REFINING (OR NEUTRALIZING) COLOR Color theory can help identify and neutralize unwanted undertones by selecting complementary tones (or colors opposite each other on the color wheel). For example, use Violet to neutralize unwanted Yellow tones in light- colored hair, use a Blue tone to neutralize hair that appears too Orange, or use a Red tone to take away a Green cast.
STEP 3: Determine the Underlying Pigment found at the desired level.
STEP 4: Choose the appropriate True Color shade to enhance, refine, or adjust the Underlying Pigment. Using the chart below, choose the Clean Developer volume and mixing ratio needed to achieve the desired outcome and necessary levels of lift. For application guidelines, see pages 39-40.
PRO TIP: For optimum results, awaken True Color by lightly whisking in the bowl until smooth, then add Clean Developer and combine.
MIXING RATIO
CLEAN DEVELOPER
COLOR ACTION
PROCESSING TIME
COLOR APPLICATION
35 Minutes 45 Minutes Resistant Hair
10, 20, 30, 40 Volume
Darker, Lighter, Add/Change Tone, Resistant Hair
1 to 1
Dry, Unwashed Hair
PERMANENT
5, 10 Volume
Deposit Only, Darker/ Change Tone
20 – 25 Minutes
DEMI PERMANENT
1 to 2
Dry, Unwashed Hair
5 Volume
Deposit Only, Pastel Toning
5 – 20 Minutes
1 to 2
Towel Dried Hair
TONING
30, 40 Volume
Up to 4+Levels of Lift
45 Minutes
1 to 2
Dry, Unwashed Hair
HIGH LIFT
37
38
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