because we felt the pulsing of the engines and felt the forward motion. The Hanseatic is small enough that there is never a time or a place on the ship when we were not able to hear and feel the engines. So we decided that maybe it was time to just go on to bed and trust that everything was under control. As we started down the stairway back to Deck 4, we met Geoff the Expedition Leader, and he told us that the port screw propeller and shaft had suddenly frozen up which caused the generator it was powering to shut down and the ship to roll over to the port. The emergency generator had started up in about 60 seconds and the starboard screw was turned off, allowing the ship to right itself. After some tinkering by the Engine Room staff, the port screw was restarted (as was the starboard one) and we started moving again. Apparently, the Hanseatic has experienced these engine problems before so none of the crew was alarmed or concerned. However, we passengers were not so blasé. By the time we returned to our own deck, the noxious odor had entirely dissipated and all the passengers had disappeared into their own cabins. Most surprisingly, we never did get an explanation regarding the alarming smell! However, the rest of the night was entirely without incident—and were we ever relieved! T HE S COTIA S EA AND THE S OUTH O RKNEY I SLANDS Day 12 We woke to overcast skies, cool temps (30s) and sloshy seas! We are now in the notorious Scotia Sea which is part of the Southern Ocean. We had lectures on Antarctic meteorites and nautical slang but mostly it was a quiet reading day. So we were both feeling pretty good and Kay managed to go to the dining room for lunch andsupper. We cruised among the South Orkney Islands in the evening—through Normana Strait , All Well Bight, and Washington Strait. Dave had run the British Antarctic Survey Station here and was feeling quite nostalgic as the typical Spartan buildings came into view. He somewhat proudly told us that the South Orkneys actually experience nastier weather than the Peninsula because of their position at the northwest edge of the Weddell Sea. It rains more often, snows more heavily, is foggy and cloudy more continuously. The islands are sealed off more often because of pack ice and icebergs coming out of the Weddell Sea.
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