DESTINATION
perfectly mirrored the Livingston Range rising above it. It was a good thing the grade on this section of Going-to-the-Sun Road was fairly mild, because the landscape’s beau - ty constantly left me breathless. Every few minutes, I’d come across yet another scenic viewpoint. Because it was early June, the entirety of Going-to-the-Sun Road wasn’t open yet; workers were still busy plowing snow off the roads at higher elevation. But it was open to The Loop, where a trailhead leads to several hiking options. About 5 miles north of Avalanche Creek, a huge sign blocked the road, indicating it as closed. A crowd had gathered; the word was the closure was only temporary. But just like with every game of telephone, there was confusion: Was it just two hours, or the rest of the day? There was a palpable sense of anxiety running through the riders. Should we leave and miss out on the ride we’d all been dying to do, or should we stay and potentially waste several hours here when we could be exploring one of the most beautiful spots in the world? As I pondered, my new friends the Johnsons arrived. Gary pointed out a steep tree-covered mountain - side and told me how he and other firefighters parachuted into the valley and attempted to make it over the top, before the steepness and the quickly moving fire forced their temporary retreat. Soon after, the crews removed the sign, and we all started our trudge to the top of the Loop. The grade noticeably increased, although it didn’t present too much of a prob - lem. At the top—the stunning views of Heavens Peak gleamed from the southwest, a worthy payoff. Days later, when it was time for me to head back home to Indiana,
I wasn’t sure where to go, so I just continued on the main road until I saw the iconic national park sign. I was officially in Glacier. The trail lead - ing into the park gives brief hints and glimpses of Glacier’s magnificence, but taking a quick spin around the south end of Lake McDonald, I was perpetually awestruck. I chatted with multiple people who couldn’t get a vehicle reserva - tion for the day, so they parked at or near West Glacier Village and walked or pedaled in. I also met Gary and Diane Johnson of Sand - point, Idaho, who’d ridden their e-bikes in from Hungry Horse as well. Gary had visited the park more than 50 years before, although it wasn’t a typical tourist adventure. A smokejumper, he fought a massive forest fire in the park around 1967. Luckily, this visit turned out to be much more pleasant. Despite the ranger’s ominous warning, I saw plenty of folks on bikes pedaling the roads or stopped in front of an ice cream shop, enjoy - ing a cone. In fact, I’d wager I saw more people on bikes than in any national park I’ve visited within the last year. That could be the result of timing; I arrived in the park in early June, before the mad summer sea - son. With fewer cars on the road, cy - clists feel much more comfortable exploring the park on two wheels. Just past the ranger station
where you pay to enter the park, another bike trail beckoned me the 2 miles to Apgar Village. Walls of towering pine trees lined the often cracked and bumpy path. I kept an eye out for bears and other wildlife, but unfortunately, I was the wildest and hairiest animal around. I later retrieved my camper van and made my base camp at the Fish Creek Campground. The plan was to use my e-bike to get around the park. At the top of my must-do list was bik - ing up Going-to-the-Sun Road. Going-to-the-Sun Road The full 50-mile route traverses the park—heading from Lake McDonald north past Avalanche Creek to “The Loop,” a switchback that hurls the route south and then east, crossing the Continental Divide and Logan’s Pass, the road’s highest point. The route passes several other scenic stops and St. Mary Lake before terminating in St. Mary. But depend - ing on the time of year you go, snow may keep you from riding the entire route. While most riders preferred to begin at the Avalanche Creek park - ing area, I decided to start from my campsite. I’d heard chatter that the road was unsafe because of traffic, and with the park ranger’s words still ringing in my ear, I departed. I am so glad I risked it. In the early morning light, Lake McDonald’s still water
PHOTO: Glacier National Park features 26 (shrinking) glaciers, according to the National Park Service.
Learn more about Going-to- the-Sun Road and access other trip-planning information for Glacer National Park at: rtc.li/ going-to-the-sun .
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RAILS TO TRAILS FALL 2022
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