navigate using traditional knowledge, observing the stars, the sun, the currents and the patterns of the waves. “That’s the culture we’re
talking about,” says Mathew, who as the owner of Watts Island Adventure Tours divides his time between the island (where there is no communication tower so no way of connecting with clients) and Milne Bay’s main town of Alotau, about 100km away. “That’s how the boys circumnavigated PNG on Tawali Pasan a. We don’t need to use any technology, just the stars to navigate. Even the mothers in the night have the powers to help them control the nature, to save them if they are lost at sea… the law (of PNG) doesn’t allow sorcery, but these things (powers) are engraved in us and very strong. They play a very
Young Diupen Pama with his prized clam shell ready to sell to a potential collector
important role.” For the Islanders, each sailau is believed to be a woman, and must be cared for and respected in the same way. “Her
stomach is the hull, head is the splashboard, leg is the outrigger and hands are the ropes that hold the canoe together,” says Mathew.
“When the sailau is laden with cargo, it’s like a woman carrying a heavy load, and when the sailors travel from island to island, they
“Kune and leyau is the moment when kula ring trading partners meet, talk or discuss... The meeting can take weeks if they don’t reach a consensus”
Kune and leyau activities that take place during the festival include trading bagi (left) and mwali (right)
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