PNG Air Volume 39

These overhanging limestone cliffs at the southeast end of Watts Island at Leleyan contain the sacred Wageimata skull cave, and Wiliwili Kana Gula, which is home to a colony of swift birds

says two caves that few ‘outsiders’ have seen due to their spiritual significance are Wageimata skull cave and Wiliwili Kana Gula, which is home to a colony of swift birds. Both caves are at the southeast end of the island, with the main skull cave below an elevated limestone outcrop overlooking picturesque Hummock and Hazard islands, and beyond towards the remote Conflict Group

of Islands. A guide is essential to navigate the 30-minute bush walk to the caves, ascending from the coast, with the route taking you past vegetable gardens and plenty of ocean and landscape views in different directions to make for a pleasant journey. Inside the underground skull cave is very dark so a strong light is needed to explore. Once entered through a small entrance, it

widens into a huge and spacious chamber where you can walk freely to discover intriguing formations of stalagmites and stalactites, along with a piled up display of human bones and skulls in the centre that can be confronting for a first-time visitor. There is very little movement of air so it quickly gets hot and clammy. Mathew says there is uncertainty about the exact origins of

the cave. One theory is that it dates back to when missionaries first arrived in Milne Bay and banned the long-time practice of headhunting and occasional cannibalism common across the whole of the country at that time. The ban forced locals quite literally underground with their prized warrior skull trophy collections in order to keep them hidden. The second and more

Ancient skulls found in Wageimata skull cave may be head-hunting trophies or

Undisturbed flightless baby swifts sleep peacefully in their nests in Wiliwili Kana Gula

belong to revered ancestors, the exact origins are unknown

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