Intl Edition 63

MAL PAIS, COSTA RICA W hat you might describe as off the beaten path , the easiest way to reach Casa Chameleon is a 30 minute trip by propeller plane from San José International airport, followed by a 45 minute ride through roads that require a 4x4 vehicle to pass, in order to reach this picturesque bohemian retreat in the small town of Mal Pais, Costa Rica. This region of Costa Rica, a part of the Nicoya Peninsula, is noted as a Blue Zone – one of the healthiest regions in the world, where the people are known to live the longest. Casa Chameleon is an adults-only eco-resort with ten stunning private villas. Spend time at Casa Chameleon for rejuvenation, regeneration, and sunning without tan lines. Hotel structures are unencumbered by walls, flowing seamlessly into the natural landscape. Eat, drink, and relinquish the pace you know fromhome. Become one withCosta Rica’s national mantra, “ Pura Vida. ” THE VILLAS Your villa is married to the arid jungle terroir (in the dry season). Each comes with its own tranquil plunge pool, hammocks, and day beds, idyllic sunset views and never ending panorama of the ocean below. CASA CHAMELEON AT MA L PA I S

THE FOOD Mornings begin with fresh squeezed juices, sliced fruits, warm homemade tortillas, grilled queso fresco, eggs, and regional favorites like huevos rancheros. The fishermen and fishing tripsoffMal Pais catch tuna, doradoand mahi mahi. Which means the menu here always boasts heaping portions of the freshest ceviche. Another staple is the Guacamole with Patacones (crispy fried plantain pancakes). Lunch and dinner menus feature regional specialties like Arroz con Mariscos (a Costa Rican paella), Asian-inspired fresh caught sashimi, Buddha bowls, a robust burger, and a Tico-style family set menu. LA VIDA What adds to the longevity factor in this region? Somewhere between the healthy local cuisine, the endless beaches and Cabo Blanco Nature Preserve, Mal Pais’s natural landscape offers droves of activities that will keep you outdoors. Surfing, snorkeling, diving, horseback riding, hiking and yoga are all available. The surfing isworld-class off thebeaches ofMal Pais andneighboring town of Santa Theresa. These are on many lists of the world’s most beautiful beaches. But these waves are not for the inexperienced. Some sit at the beachbars drinking freshboozy smoothieswhile others attempt to “get in the green room.” (The space inside a barreling wave). Private yoga sessions with Casa Chameleon’s expert instructors are highly recommended. Sunset sessions take place on your private patio. 1:1 classes offer greater emphasis on alignment, adjustments and assisted deeper stretching. Daniel, one of the instructors, is fantastic. In Santa Theresa, find morning and afternoon yoga classes at the hotel Tropico Latino, held on a shaded platform right on the beach. Complementary yet divergent from the more isolated Mal Pais, the neighboring town of Santa Theresa has a boisterous nightlife and extensive dining options. Here gathers an eclectic troupe of surf bums, backpackers, yogis, and young restaurateurs. A dirt road runs through town with restaurants serving every type of ethnic cuisine, far outnumbering the establishments serving anything resembling Costa Rican food. (A concrete structure serves platters of sushi on its open rooftop, from low-rise tables, with diners seated on oriental carpets, and Japanese-inspired cocktails with fresh muddled herbs to match.) After a day or evening in town, leave the dust and hostels behind for a hot shower and a cooling dip in your private pool. There is a distinctive dry and wet season, so be sure to pay attention to the time of year when you are booking. casachameleonhotels.com GETTING HERE San José to Tambor in 30 minutes. Be sure to read the luggage weight restrictions for this leg of your journey. Not for the faint of heart. Flysansa.com

Dream in big romantic beds, enveloped in lush mosquito netting. An ocean-facing wall of glass doors opens eachmorning so that each villa feels less like a hotel room, and more like a tropical hideaway, as the pure air pours in. THE PEOPLE You can tell very quickly that the staff takes a lot of pride in what they do. Emilio, our amazing bartender, plied us with fresh, simple, and delicious cocktails, friendly banter, Tico (Costa Rican) music, and local advice on how to make the most of our trip. The restaurant waiters have big smiles and want to share their Pura Vida attitude with you.

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