GREŠNO KALORIČNO/ SINFULLY CALORIFIC Zimska radost ima ukus sira Winter joy tastes of cheese
Ako postoji jelo koje najbolje opisuje švajcarski identitet – toplinu, zajedništvo, planine i zimske večeri – onda je to fondu / If any dish exists that best describes the Swiss identity – warmth, kinship, mountains and winter evenings – it is fondue N astao iz potrebe, a pretvoren u nacionalni simbol, fondu je nezaobilazan deo švajcar- ske kulture, posebno u Cirihu, gde se tradi- cionalno služi u drvenim „chalets-restorani- ma“, ali i u modernim, urbanim verzijama u F ondue emerged out of necessity and was transformed into a national symbol, and is today an indispensable part of Swiss culture, especially in Zurich, where it is traditionally served at wooden chalet-restaurants, but also in more modern and urban eateries where this classic has become trendy.
kojima ovaj klasik postaje trendi. Izvor fondua vodi nas duboko u alpske doline u 17. i 18. vek. Kada bi zimi pastiri i seljaci ostajali bez sve- že hrane, stari tvrdi sir i ustajali hleb bili su jedino što se nalazilo u ostavama. Da bi ga omekšali i učinili jestivim, topili su sir uz dodatak vina i začina. Tako je rođen fon- du – praktično, skromno i genijalno ukusno jelo koje je tek u 20. veku dobilo nacional- ni status. U Cirihu fondu ima posebno
Tracking the origins of fondue takes us deep into the Alpine val- leys during the 17 th and 18 th centuries. When shepherds and peasants ran out of fresh food during the barren winter months, the only options left in their pantries were aged hard cheese and stale bread. In order to soften the cheese and render it edible, it was melted and wine and herbs were added. And fondue was
thus born - practical, modest and ingen- iously delicious, it was only in the 20 th cen- tury that it became a national dish. Fondue holds a special place in Zurich. The city not only brings together the best chee- semakers from all over Switzerland, but has also pioneered the modernisation of this dish. The famous “moitié-moitié” – a mixture of Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses – remains the most popular version today, but in Zurich you’ll also find fondue with black truffles, prosecco, champagne or beer from local craft breweries. The secret to fondue’s perfect aroma lies in the combination of a more aromat- ic cheese, such as Emmentaler or Gruyère, and a younger, milder flavoured cheese that melts well, such as Gouda, Brie etc. Apart from bread, it is increasingly com- mon today to dip batons of fresh vege- tables in fondue. Interestingly, the word “fondue” is derived from the French word
mesto. Grad ne samo da okuplja najbolje proizvođače sira sa svih strana Švajcarske već je i pionir u modernizaciji ovog jela. Čuveni „moitié-moitié“ – mešavina gru- jer sira i vacherina i danas je naj- popularnija verzija, ali u Cirihu ćete naići i na fondu sa crnim tar- tufima, prosekom, šampanjcem ili pivom iz lokalnih kraft pivara. Tajna savršene arome fon- dua leži u kombinaciji nekog pi- kantnijeg sira, poput ementa- lera ili grijera, i nekog mlađeg, blagog ukusa koji se fino topi, poput gaude, brija... Osim hle- ba, u fondu se danas sve češće umače sveže seckano povrće ili voće. Inače, reč „fondue“ ozna-
čava metalnu posudu u kojoj se sir topi i u kojoj se ovo je- lo priprema pre nego što se posluži. To su obično kera- mičke posude koje imaju debelo dno, kako smesa ne bi zagorela. Na kraju treba reći možda ono najvažnije – fondu je mnogo više od topljenog sira. To je ritual, okupljanje, znak da je sezona praznika počela i da se ulazi u naj- lepši deo godine. I bez obzira na to da li ga probate u planinskoj kolibi, u srcu starog grada, na obali Ciriškog jezera ili u tramvaju, jedno je sigurno – nećete ga tako lako zaboraviti.
fondre, meaning to melt, and is not a reference to the commu- nal pot in which the cheese is melted and the dish served. These pots are usually ceramic and have a thick bottom that prevents the mixture from burning. We should perhaps conclude by noting that which is most im- portant: fondue is much more than melted cheese. It is a ritu- al, a gathering, a sign that the holiday season is underway and we’re entering the most beautiful part of the year. And regard- less of whether you try it in a mountain shack, at the heart of the old town, on the shores of Lake Zurich or while riding a tram – one thing that’s for sure is that you won’t easily forget fondue.
Fondue » Fondu | 101
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